Laser cut parts

[Carl]

Hey guys, I just wanted to offer laser cutting services if you need anything. I can cut detailed parts out of plain steel up to 0.25" thick and stainless up to around 0.080". Also 1/8" acrylic. Probably thicker, I just haven't tried yet. The maximum part size could be 48"x48".

I cut this part for a ClassicBroncos.com member from the northwest a while back. And I figured I would check with you guys to see if I can help you out with anything. I'm not sure what it was for, but it was made out of .156" hardened steel and I think around 10" in diameter. The imperfections near the small holes were already there from holes that were drilled in the plate. The laser cuts very clean.
http://home.comcast.net/~cj26/DSC00706.JPG

I was thinking of making some signs out of acrylic with the Bronco script and even some interior door panels and quarter panels out of acrylic. I like acrylic because it is fairly durable, light weight, weather resistant, and it comes in different colors.

If you guys have any ideas for Bronco parts, or signs or anything else let me know. I would need a .dxf or .dwg file for any parts. Or just a drawing on paper with detailed dimensions.

Thanks,
Carl

[Tito]

Some custom dash covers laser cut would be sweet. What would it cost to get one done with holes for 1 speedo (center), 5 gauges (surround), 4 vents 1 left, 2 center, 1 right, 2 speakers (1 left, 1 right). I'd get you all the measurements, etc of course out of stainless or steel.

[Carl]

PDXBronco, what thickness would you want the steel? Is it ok if its completely flat? I don't have a brake to make bends. Would you weld it in place?

[TOFIC]

CarlF250
I know what that part is and I am looking for someone to do these.
Can you drop me a PM and we can talk. I am sure we can do a little business
TOFIC

[Tito]

If it was steel, I might weld it in, stainless I'd bolt it in with some 1/4" hex head stainless bolts to match the rest I am using on the rig (including the flares). Just flat would be fine, go up to the curve on top and to the bend at the bottom. I'd probably prefer to bolt it in that way it could be dropped down for maintenance, etc. As far as thickness, what 16ga? I think that is typically thick enough to keep its shape.

[Apogee]

Originally Posted by PDXBronco

If it was steel, I might weld it in, stainless I'd bolt it in with some 1/4" hex head stainless bolts to match the rest I am using on the rig (including the flares). Just flat would be fine, go up to the curve on top and to the bend at the bottom. I'd probably prefer to bolt it in that way it could be dropped down for maintenance, etc. As far as thickness, what 16ga? I think that is typically thick enough to keep its shape.

16 gage is approximately 1/16" thick and fairly stout. I would probably use 18 or 20 gage with stainless steel, as it's easier to punch holes with standard electrical knockout tools/punches. You never know when you might want to add a button, indicator light, bulkhead fitting or something. With cold rolled mild steel, 16 gage would be fine. If you bolt it in, you can easily pull the guages out from the front rather than having to dive in behind the dash to do it. You can weld stainless to mild steel...the result is a de-alloyed weld region, which wouldn't be a problem in most low-strength applications like a dash.

304 SS is the most common and least expensive SS available in sheets.
Mill finish is as rolled, but not necessarily available with thinner sheets.
2B finish is a smooth satin/matte, one step better than a "mill" finish".
#4 finish is brushed.
#8 finish is mirror polished.

[Carl]

PDXBronco.... PM Sent

[Tito]

Thanks for the info Apogee, I'd probably be fine with steel 16ga, the polished stainless that I would work towards would probably blind me one day . I think even bolting the steel one on with the hex head bolts would look good.

FYI Apogee, loving the seats still, took brackets off an old set, cleaned them up, cleaned up the seats and they look great!

Carl, I'll send you my best paint work tonight

Attached is a really rought 5 min sketch of what I am looking for, I am sure I am not even close proportion wise to everything but you can get the jist.
Slats cut for speakers (like stock but on each side (round or square - prefer round shaped)) vent hole left and right (I am using newer f150 vents - they are sweet), speedo in center going to find an f100 that looks like the eb but without the guages around, and 4 gauges around corners of speedo with vents on the sides, then holes for my pulls and ignition vertically next to the column mount.

[Carl]

PDXBronco, that should look pretty cool. I'm assuming those four holes between the steering column and gauges are for the knobs, right? No glove box?

[Burchtree]

I'm looking to have my logo cut out of some steel for some blade table decorations -- would that be a possibility?

[Tito]

Originally Posted by CarlF250

PDXBronco, that should look pretty cool. I'm assuming those four holes between the steering column and gauges are for the knobs, right? No glove box?

yup, those are for the knobs, no box.

[brian72]

Originally Posted by Burchtree

I'm looking to have my logo cut out of some steel for some blade table decorations -- would that be a possibility?

Nice site...nice knives.

[Burchtree]

Thanks!

[RedLeg0811]

Originally Posted by TOFIC

CarlF250
I know what that part is and I am looking for someone to do these.
Can you drop me a PM and we can talk. I am sure we can do a little business
TOFIC

So what part is it?

Thanks
Martin

[Broncitis]

I used 16 ga. when I designed the laser cut dash for Mtfits Bronco. 18 would also probably work fine. We used mild steel since it was getting painted body color. Brushed stainless might be OK, but it does show smudges and scratched easily. Polished would be painful in bright sun IMO.

There are some pics of it in the recent "who has the best looking dash" thread.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=26