WARNING: I claim no responsibility for kick panels made using this tech article that do not fit properly.  As with any 30+ year old vehicle the craftsmanship and original construction varies from vehicle to vehicle.  Please be aware of this and make the necessary measurements for your particular Bronco.

That being said the following article outlines how I made replacement kick panels that worked for my Bronco.  Enjoy.

Tools Needed:

1. Metal Cutting Device (Plasma Burner, Nibbler, Shear, Cutoff Tool or Grinder)
2. Square
3. Markers
4. Tape Measure
5. Spot Weld Cutter
6. Drill Bits
7. Welder
8. Drill
9. Clamps
10. Grinder

Materials Needed:

1. 4×4 or 4×8 16 Gauge Sheet Metal
2. Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws
3. Cutoff Wheels
4. Grind Rocks

STEP 1:

Take accurate measurements of your existing kick panels if available.  Make sure that you measure from points that will not change (i.e. the firewall or door posts).  Once you have taken your measurements carefully make note of all the measurements and store in a safe place.  (Not on the cardboard you use as a weld spatter shield)

Make sure to measure from the top edge of the existing kick panel to the center of all bolt holes in the kick panel.  Also measure from the firewall to the center of all bolt holes.  Make note of the measurements and hole sizes.

STEP 2:

Install braces from the dash support to the door post and to the floorboard.  I recommend tack welding in place because sheet metal screws tend to give a certain amount, especially when you are beating and banging to remove the old kick panel.  At this point if your kick panel is in decent shape you are very lucky and this project just got a lot easier.

STEP 3:

Using a 4 x 4 or 4 x 8 sheet of 16gauge steel make the following measurements and mark with a paint pen, marker, etc.  (See Drawing Below)

1. Total Width = 23 inches ( allows for some extra space on the inner fender for welding)
2. Total Height = 29 ¼ inches (includes 1 ½ inches for lip that connects to the cowl.

Once you have these measurements transferred use your choice of metal cutting instrument to cut out the rectangular shape.  I recommend a plasma torch for precision and ease of use.  However, shears, grinders and nibblers all work equally well.  I do not recommend using a torch because the sheet will have a tendency to warp.

STEP 4:

With the steel on a flat surface start at the top where it is 23 inches wide and make the following measurements and transfer with a marker.  (See Drawing Below)

1. Measure down from the top 1 ½ inches at each corner and mark.
2. Use a straight edge and connect the two marks.
3. From left to right measure 9 inches from the front edge of the panel and make a mark from the top to the previous line.
4. From the right edge measure 3 ½ inches from the back edge of the panel and make a mark from the top to the first line you made.
5. Cut off the 1 ½ inch piece at the top left and top right corners.
6. The remaining tab at the top now needs to be bent up at a 90 degree angle (towards you, if you are facing the piece) on the 1 ½ inch mark.

I prefer using a piece of angle iron clamped to a table with the panel sandwiched between the angle iron and the table.  However, if you have access to a brake it will work better.  A small amount of heat can make the bend easier and more precise.  If you don’t want to chance bending the piece wrong then you can cut it off and weld it in place.

STEP 5:

With the panel in front of you like it would go on the Bronco, make the following measurements and mark.  (See Drawing Below)

1. From the top left edge measure down six inches and mark.
2. Using a square make a line from the previous mark toward the center of the panel 2 inches long.
3. From the bottom right edge measure 4 inches toward the center of the panel.
4. Using a straight edge make a mark connecting the end of the 2 inch line to the end of the 4 inch line.
5. Cut along the 2 inch line, the 4 inch line and the line connecting them.

At this point the panel should be looking something like what you took off but better.

Step 6:

Attach the kick panel to the Bronco using sheet metal screws and test the fit.  (Don’t fret if it is too long when it fits behind the pillar post.  We will correct this shortly.)  While you have the panel in place, mark any areas where you have excess sheet metal and make the following measurements.

1. Measure and mark all bolt holes using YOUR measurements.  This is important.  If you don’t make these measurements using your original dash holes the dash will not fit properly.   Unless you are planning to weld in your dash then don’t worry about the holes.
2. IF you have not removed your pillar post mark the panel where the inside edge makes contact at the top and bottom of the post.  If you have removed your post fit the post in place and secure with sheet metal screws then mark the panel where the post contacts it at the top and bottom.
3. Stand back and look how far you have come!!!!

STEP 7:

1. Remove the panel from the Bronco.
2. Drill appropriately sized holes on the marks you made.
3. Use a straight edge and connect the two marks you made where the panel contacts your pillar post.
4. Remove the excess metal by cutting along the line.
5. Remove any excess metal from other marks you made.  (This step can be postponed until the panel is in place to allow for more accurate fitting.)
6. Weld appropriately sized nuts to the outside of the panel lined up with the holes you drilled earlier.

At this point you have three choices as far as the how you want your panel to contact the pillar post.

1. You can cut the excess metal off on the mark you made and when the time comes weld directly to the pillar post
2. You can cut the excess metal off on the mark you made and then use a piece of ½ or ¾ inch angle iron welded to the door post and then the kick panel to make the connection.
3. You can make two bends in the metal using a brake or similar setup to allow for the variation from the kick panel to the pillar post and connect the two using spot welds.

I chose to use # 1 for ease of installation.  Personally I think it looks better and I know it is stronger than using spot welds.  However, if you do not trust your welding skills then option #2 is better because you can do most of the welding with the panel on a table.

STEP 8:

1. Refit the panel using your original sheet metal screw holes.
2. Check all measurements from your Bronco and adjust the cowl, dash and pillar post appropriately.
3. Use a spot weld cutter to make holes in the panel along all edges for welding if you prefer a clean factory look.  Otherwise weld the panel in place along all joints.  (Make sure you make short welds in different areas of the panel and allow cooling time to reduce the chance the panel will warp.
4. Use a grinder to smooth all welds and edges so that they areclean and line up with the fender well and inner rocker panel.
5. Use etching primer to prime the metal.

I hope you find this article informative and useful.  This worked wonderfully for me as you can see by the photos.  I will stress however, that our beloved Broncos were made many, many moons ago and they are by design and build different from one to another so please be careful with your measurements and make logical choices if you decide to follow this article.

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The use of racing “billet” fuel doors has become a popular upgrade to both street and off-road vehicles. There are two versions of the billet fuel door available for the Early Bronco. The first is a large billet “door” that covers a recessed stock fuel cap. A great tech article on this style of door is available on Jim Price’s website (luvmybronco.classicbroncos.com). The other alternative is an actual billet door and funnel mounted to the fender.This tech article will guide you through the installation of the Mocal Aero 300 fuel filler door for the main and auxiliary tanks on 73′-76′ Bronco’s. This racing quality British made door is used as standard equipment on the McClaren, Ferrari, and Jaguar. The forged aluminum cap sits in a pressed aluminum flange sealed with a fuel resistant o-ring. Cap and flange are polished and anodized silver (colors available as special order). Caps are supplied with nuts, bolts, and fiber gasket. Locking version includes two keys. I used the locking version with matching keys for both doors (available upon request). Non-locking doors are also available at a lower cost.

To start the install, first remove the left rear wheel. It will make the install much easier. Unclamp and remove the main and overflow hoses between the filler tubes and the tanks. Now remove the three retaining screws at the filler neck and the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fender. The filler tube should now drop out through the bottom of the rear fender.

Next use a metal burr bit to slightly ream out the existing filler hole to fit the larger Aero Filler neck. Be careful not to cut past the existing screw holes. It will not take much, so test fit as you cut.

After reaming out the hole to fit the Aero filler, mark your mounting holes. With one hole positioned at twelve o’clock, the ten, two, and six o’clock holes will almost align perfectly. Drill out the 12, 4, and 8 o’clock holes first, then just mark and ream out the existing holes as seen in the photo.

Now take out your trusty sawzall with a long metal bit and notch out the ¾” inside fender lip to allow the 90deg hose room to fit back into the fender well. Be careful not to cut through the fender while you are notching out the back plate.

Once you cut two to three notches, hammer the lip up flush with the fender well top.

Now you can install the Aero 300 funnels in the fender. Do not fully tighten down the bolts at this time. Take your stock filler tubes, at this time, and prep them for final installation. As you can see in the picture, the main filler tube is cut right after the weld of the upper and lower section. The auxiliary tube is cut a little lower down the neck. You will need to cut 1 ” off the 90deg hose that you will attach to the main filler tube. Note: If you own a 66′-72′ the overflow tube attaches higher on the filler neck. You will need to cut the hose more or move the overflow tubes further down.

If you wish to vent your system, you will need to install ports into your filler tubes. I used ¼ ” barbed to 1/8 ” threaded npt brass fittings. I drilled an 11/32″ hole just to the right of the overflow tube on the main filler and just to the left of the overflow on the auxiliary tube. These locations will allow the tubes clearance in the fender wells. I reamed the hole out enough to thread the fitting into the tube. After screwing the brass fittings in, I used some JB Weld to secure the fittings a little better to the tube.

After installing the vent fittings, finish the assembly of your filler tubes. It is a tight fit, but the 90deg elbows will go over the filler tubes. A little soap solution will help. Be careful and wear gloves to prevent slicing your fingers on the filler tube. You should be able to slide the elbow down the tube approximately 1½” inches, almost to the top of the overflow tube, by working it back and forth. If you can’t get it to go, slightly notch the top of the filler tube in 4 places and bend in slightly. Tighten down with 2 ½” hose clamps. Attach 3ft of 7/32″ vacuum hose to the auxiliary pipe and about 1ft of hose to the main pipe.

You will find the Aero 300 filler neck has a two step barbed end. The first step is appx. 2″ and the second set of barbs are 2 1/4″ O.D.. The 90deg elbow (1 13/16″ I.D.) will not go over the second set of barbs without notching the rubber elbow about ¼” in four to six spots around the edge of the elbow. Due to the aero mounting bolts, the rubber elbow will not slide all the way on the barbed base.

It’s now time to reinstall the stock filler tubes. Slide a second loose hose clamp on the elbow to use on the aero 300 fitting. Carefully slide the tube up the inside fender into the notch you cut earlier in the fender well. If the 90deg. elbow does not align up correctly remove the filler tube and adjust the elbow to the right direction. This should be about in line with the overflow tube on the main and slightly to the right of the auxiliary. Coat the elbow and aero fitting with some soap solution and work the elbow on to the aero fitting mounted in the fender. You can now fully tighten down the allen screws on the Aero 300 door and firm up and clamp the elbow to the main fitting.

Before clamping the lower pipe support back in, connect new main fuel and overflow hoses. I found both hoses by the foot at my local NAPA store. The main hose is 1 ¾” I.D. and the overflow is 19/32″ I.D.

Now route both vent tubes over the aero filler necks to a ¼” plastic barbed “Y”. I connected the “Y” to a ¼” plastic fuel filter to catch any slosh or overflow. The output of the fuel filter runs over the rear side marker lamp, down the rear fender and out the back of the car. I also attached a check valve in the end of the vent hose to prevent debris or water from entering the hose. Make sure the vent does not exit around an exhaust pipe.

I have found the aero doors to work fine in daily use. You will notice that you have to feed the gasoline pump handle fully into the elbow or gas will slosh back out of the neck. Also stop filling after the pump handle kicks off the first time. Do not top off repeatedly or you will flood the filter and vent hose. I am looking into fabricating an attaching chain, (similar to what boats use) so that I won’t accidentally leave a $90.00 gas cap at the gas station.

Questions? Email John@edgecomb.netTech article by John Edgecomb (edge4)

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They’re bulbous, ugly, protruding pieces. They look out of place, like they don’t fit, as if they were some designer’s afterthought. They’re often cracked, broken, or missing. Their gaskets are usually cracked, petrified, shrunken shadows of their original selves – offering no protection from the elements and certainly not adding any visual appeal to the grille to which they’re mounted.

Before...

...and after.

We’re of course talking about the turn signal/park lamp lenses and gaskets installed on all 1969-1977 Broncos. The 1966-68 models were dressed with small, clear lenses inset into the grille. They look right. The grille was designed for them. Their flush mounting adds a certain sleekness missing from the later models. For 1969, faced with changing lighting regulations requiring orange lens, Ford engineers designed a modification to the original turn signal socket that allowed the larger orange lens to be added to the grille. In 1970, they went one step further and added side marker lights to meet the new federal lighting requirements now in place.

Thom Cheney is no stranger to most Bronco enthusiasts. In addition to being the premier artist in the Bronco community, he is also a member of that terrific triumvirate that puts on SOB at Sand Lake, Oregon, every year. And in recent years, his endeavors have included building a beautiful uncut Bronco he lovingly calls “Alice”. Like many Bronco owners, Thom has steadily been performing Alice’s transformation from an ugly duckling into a beautiful swan. And of course, the transformation has included the retrofitting of the 1966-68 turn signal lenses into Alice’s later model grille.

The conversion is an easy one, and costs about the same as buying a new set of 69-77 turn signal/park lamp gaskets. The orange lenses used in this conversion were originally sourced for an early ’60s large Ford car. In true Ford fashion, they work on a variety of vehicles. I bought my parts from Wild Horses, but other Bronco vendors sell the same parts. Follow along as we add just a bit of beauty to the grille of a 1969 Bronco.

Parts List:

• 1 set of 66-68 amber turn signal lens $11.98 pr. (WH P/N 9342)
• 1 set of 66-68 front signal lens gaskets $4.00 pr. (WH P/N 9344)
• 4- #8-32 x 1″ screws $2.00 (approx.)*
• 4- #8-32 nyloc nuts $1.00 (approx.)*

· Note: Stainless hardware is a nice touch in this application. Hex cap head screws (aka “allen head” screws) work very well and are visually appealing.
· My total cost for this conversion (including several wheels for my cut-off tool) was about $20.

Tools required:

• Screwdriver
• Drill & assortment of small drill bits
• Pliers
• Marker
• Cut-off tool (Dremel or similar type tool works very well)
• File/belt sander
• Allen wrench assortment

Procedure:
1. Remove the old lens and gasket from the parking lamp assembly. Discard.

2. Remove the lens from the parking lamp assembly so it’s not damaged during the modification process.

Figure 1

3. Unplug the parking lamp assembly from the wiring harness. Detach the assembly from the grille and remove. Once the parking lamp assembly is removed, you can easily see the pieces that were added to the grille for the later model lenses. (See Figure 1) You’ll want to mark the top and bottom pieces for cutting and removal. The following photo shows where to cut along the bottom.

Figure 2

4. And this photo (Figure 2) shows the piece after removal from the truck. This photo gives you a good idea what must be cut to remove this piece from the truck.

Figure 3

5. Once the lens bracketry is removed, the opening your grille should have two small tabs remaining. One is shown in figure 3 above.

Figure 4

6. Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend these two tabs so they extend into the hole opening as shown in the photo below (do not drill the holes yet). Figure 4

7. Now that the grille opening has been modified, it’s time to modify the light housing itself. The Bronco vendors sell the 66-68 light housings by themselves for $40 each, but since we’re typical Bronco owners (i.e. cheap), we’ll modify our existing light housings and save the $80 for something else.

Figure 5

8. Take your 66-68 lens and hold it over the 69-newer housing and trace around it using an ink marker, as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 6

9. Using your small cut-off tool, carefully trim the excess from the housing. This is an interative process. It’s recommended that you cut the housing a little larger than the opening at first and then trim to fit. You want as much “meat” as possible on the sides of the housing because you’ll be drilling through that portion when you mount the housings. When you’re done, the housing should look something like Figure 6 above.

10. Now comes the tricky part. There isn’t a lot of overlap between the ends of your modified light housing and the tabs on the grille. Carefully fit the housing into the grille opening and determine the optimum locations to drill the holes such that they go through both the housing and the tabs. I recommend using a center punch and a small pilot bit in the housings and the tabs to make sure you get the holes where you want them before drilling the final mounting holes. Once you’ve drilled your final holes (3/16″ diameter), test fit the hardware to ensure everything fits correctly.

11. Now that everything fits, you’re just about done! Reinstall the lens into the park lamp assembly and install the assembly into the grille. The lens gasket can be a bit cantankerous – I like to use a little silicone or gasket adhesive to hold it in place. Then place your new lens on and install the screws and locknuts. Tighten up the hardware after making sure the gasket is centered correctly and plug the lamp back into the main harness.

12. Repeat the process for the other lamp and then enjoy the new look of your grille.

Final product.

Special thanks to Thom Cheney for showing me this modification and inspiring me to finally do it to my own truck.

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Installing of a Fasttrac soft top on my 1970 Bronco was quick and looked and fit real nice .The guys at STC showed how easy it is to install. The install took about 3.5 hours. They said that some times it my take longer if the windshield needs adjustment and the door frames are bent or welded different.

Tools needed

1. 3/8”wrench , 7/16“ wrench , ½” wrench
2. ELECTRIC DRILL AND 4 BITS SIZES 1/8”, 9/64”, 5/32“,3/8”
3. #2 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER and a 8’ tape measure,
4. And a good socket set helps a lot.

The first thing that helps is to keep the top in a warm place above 72 degrees Fahrenheit and should be installed above 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Below this temp can make the top difficult to install.

Step #1
- Checking the windshield adjustment This measurement should be 83 ¾” to 84” for a proper fit. Measure from the inside edge of windshield frame to the inside edge of tailgate. My bronco was 84” and 84 ½” we tried to see if the tension from the top would pull it back and it did. If it measures less than 83 ¾” you need to loosen the two hand bolts on both sides of the windshield frame and shim it to 83 ¾” and retighten bolts . It may be a good time to reseal the windshield frame if it is shimmed.

Step #2 – Body aluminum
Mount body aluminum to the top edge of the body with notch to the inside of vehicle and rivet at the rear of vehicle. (Pic #2) locate the body aluminum 1 1/8” from inside edge of body and 2 1/8” from the drop in the door. The holes lined up for me but the guys at CST said that sometimes you might have to ream the holes out a little to get a good fit (Pic #3) and (Pic #4) Place 5/16”-18 hex bolt and washers into original holes in the body and tighten all the bolts. Set bow release in the notch in the body aluminum and use it as a temporary plate. Drill two 5/32” holes one at each end. (Pic #5) Install #14x½” sheet metal screws . Drill the hole at the end of the body aluminum and use the same drill bit and screws.

Step # 3 – Bows
Secure the bow release bracket to the mount with ¼”x1 ¾” bolt and flat washer and secure with the ¼” lock nut. (these must pivot so don’t over tighten bolts) (Pic #6) Place rear bow sleeves over bows. Slide rear bow halves together. Mount rear bow into center set of holes in bow release bracket by using 1 ½”x ¼ “ bolts flat washers and locking nuts.( these items must pivot so do not over tighten) (Pic #6) Put front bow sleeves over front bow halves. Place front bow in to front slot in bow mount so that the large doles in bow are facing toward the front of the Bronco. Tighten front bow to bow mount with ¼”x 1/34” bolt flat washer and locking nut. (these items must pivot so do not over tighten) (Pic #7)

Step #5 – Riser
I used my old riser and wiper bracket off the bikini top. The pics are of the old bracket. The new ones are plated and cleaner looking than the old style. Position riser on top of windshield frame using 5/16”x3/3” bolts, nuts and flat washers. On both ends mount horizontal rod brackets (Pic #8) (note shims used on p.s. side of window frame was welded 1/8” higher than d.s. side) The large hole in the bracket should face the rear of, and to the outside of the Bronco.

Step #6 – Wiper bracket
I used my old one in this step. Remove wiper arm from motor. Remove motor from original bracket. Install wiper motor into new bracket reusing original fasteners .Reattach wiper arm making sure that wipers are in the correct position. Should look like (Pic #9)

Step #7 – Tailgate channel
Measure 3 ½” from edge of tailgate and ½” down from top of tailgate on inside of tailgate on both ends of tailgate. Mark for location of end holes of tailgate channel (Pic #10) drill 1/8” holes on marks. Mount tailgate channel to tailgate with #10×12 screws. Drill the rest of the holes and tighten all the screws. (Don’t mount channel lower than ½” from top of tailgate fabric on back window will be hard to mount.)

Step #8 – Horizontal rods
Position front of horizontal rods into rod brackets mounted on windshield frame rubber weather strip on the out side, and opening in channel facing down. Pull front bow forward and place rod into hole of bow (Pic #11) It is recommended that you hold the vertical rod in position, with the channel on the inside, rubber weather strip on the out side, and channel opening towards the front of the Bronco. This will help assure proper alignment, prior to drilling holes. This should be done with door closed. (Pic #12
Drill 3/8” holes (Pic #13) Position end of vertical rod into hole at door opening. Use the carriage bolt and secure (shut door slow to see if you need to shim windshield frame bracket (Pic #14))

Step 9 – Top install
Fabric installation (release rear bow) Place top on hood of Bronco vinyl side down. Slide sewn in rope into channel. Slip channel into windshield riser. (Pic #15) Flip top up and over front bow. Snap rear bow flap to rear bow. (Pic #16) Pull to the rear and down on the rear bottom corners of top until 4” pieces of plastic are in on rear of belt rail in front of rivet. (Pic #17) Starting at door openings, zip side panel to top clip bottom of side panel to rail mounted to the body. Zip in rear window center from side to side .Place sewn in plastic at bottom of window into tailgate channel reach in side and lock rear bows.

Step 10 – Windshield snap studs
Pull down on tab at front side of top. Mark and drill for best position of snap stud. Mark and drill 9/64” hole. Install 3/8” screw stud. (Pic #18) Inside and outside pics after install.

I hope that the instructions with the pictures help on the install of the soft top. I like how fast and easy it is to take out windows and the top off. I would like to thank the people down at STC for letting me take pictures and help on the installation.

Blake Robinson at STC said that if people have questions on installation to call Specialty Top Co and they would try to help, Phone # (303)487-9939

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Many of us who have done a frame off restoration have discovered after removing our body mounts and the tub that the surface on the frame where the body mount sits is rotted away. The metal has gotten scaly and chipped away or the whole surface is gone. There is an easy and cheap way to fix this problem. With really big washers!!!

I used washers that are 2 & 3/4” wide, 3/16” thick and had a 1 & 1/2” inner hole. I got them from a small hardware store locally but you can most likely get them from the big box stores too.(ACE hardware is a better bet than Lowe’s or Home Depot) I laid the washers on the frame and marked them with a soapstone using what was left of the stock holes as a template. I used a die grinder with a metal removal bit and cleaned out all the thin metal back to the point where the metal was the proper thickness. Clamped down the washers using the soapstone outlines and tacked them all in. Then I welded them in using short stitch welds and rotating from one side to the other to keep them from bowing up. I’d go back and forth from one mount to another allowing each one a little time to cool. Once they were all welded in I used a grinder to clean them up and smooth them out.

I only had 4 of the eight mounts that were bad but I did all eight to keep the body level once it goes back on. I think it turned out great and maybe someone else can use this information in the future on their own project. Special thanks to crawln68 and regshawn for the “after” welding pics as mine were too blurry. Both of these guys have done this repair as well and were also very happy with the results. This should cost less than $10 and take about 2-3 hrs if you have a good welder.

Happy wrenching!

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There are a couple of ways to get these old body bushings out of the frame. Remember you may have to use a combination of methods that I will be writing about to remove the original bushings.

If you can, soak the bushings and the bolt as best you can with some type of penetrating oil for a few days. It will help to get the bolts out. If you can get the bolts out I personally think it’s easier for the four in the rear of your Bronco. I really had to work to get the bolts out.

At the time I did not own a Sawzall and still don’t. It’s on my wish list. To remove the original bushings I used a dremel or if you have a Sawzall it will make the job easier. You can use these tools for the very front bushing removal since they are easy to get to. For the other six I soaked the bolts and bottom bushing retainer with penetrating oil for a couple of days. I used a cheater bar on a socket wrench and pulled the bolts. It wasn’t easy since my body mounts had been in there for 37 years.

Once I did this the two retainers top and bottom that hold the bushing together are usually rusted together. See diagram (A) for what the original mounts look like. I then screwed the bolts back in about half way and dropped a 45 lbs. weight on the bolt head which separated the two apart. See picture #(1) above. It actually took some really hard hits before they separated. It also bends the bottom plate down towards the frame. See picture of the old body bushing and what they look like after using the 45 lbs. weight. Picture #(2) above.

Option two is a combination of getting the bolts out if you can and just cutting them out by using a Sawzall or another type of cutting device. If you use a Sawzall cut the rubber bushing and the two steel bushing retainer plates in half. It’s easy to get access to the front four. The ones behind the passenger and driver seats will take some time to get them cut in half. You will have to pull your rear bumper to gain access to the rear ones. Again you may not have to take the bolts out if you can take the Sawzall to the top original body bushing between the frame and body. This will work for the front four mounts since there is nothing underneath supporting the bushing retainers.

The back four you have two side flanges on the frame that hold the bottom bushing plate up. [see pic #(7)] So once you cut the top bushing in half it’s just not going to fall out. You can always do what I did and insert another bolt and pound the bushing out of the flange. See picture #(2) what they look like after wards.

When you install the new bushings you will find it is easier to push the new bushing sleeve in the bottom bushing and push them up into the the top bushing in between the body and the frame. See picture #(2) you will see them in the back ground with blue polyurethane bushings. As you see in pictures #(3) & #(4) this is how they look installed ready for bottom washer and lock nut.

For examples of what a 2″ body lift looks like installed see pictures #(5), #(6) & #(7). Picture #(5) is the front body mount near your grille, #(6) is body mount behind the passenger seat and #(7) is the rear body mount and bumper removed for this view.

I wrote this to help out anyone who has never replaced those old body bushings. I know I had never seen any write ups and I hope this is some useful information for you.

The CrackerJack.

Tech article by Waylon (blackjack)

The following tip and photos are from brian72

Before trying to replace the bushing in the middle of the bed. Put tape over the hole in the frame below the perch. If not the metal sleeve and or your nut might fall in.

Take the correct size boxed end wrench and tape the opening on one side. Now you can place the nut in the boxed end and it will not fall out. No more contorting your fingers to try and hold the nut. Slide the wrench between the frame rail and the bottom bushing. Put the bolt in through the top and line up nut and bolt and begin to thread the bolt. Once you have started the nut, pull up on the bolt. This leaves room for you to remove the wrench. Flip the wrench around to the open end and place on nut and begin to tighten with socket on the bolt.

~Brian

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I’ve never liked the stock antennae on our beloved Classic Broncos. They are prone to breakage from trees while wheeling and expensive to replace if you can find one.

When I had new fenders put on my Bronco I opted not to have a new antennae hole cut in the stock location. I was sure there was something better out there. I had been tied up with other mods and have decided it was now time for a stereo.

I looked at a couple of Hot Rod Shops to see if they offered anything. All I found were over priced billet aluminum setups. I had resigned myself to the fact that I was going to have to buy a expensive antennae but being a Early Bronco owner means I’m resourceful (and cheap), so I made one more swing through the local bone yard.

I walked row after row and I finally found gold in the form of a 1986 Isuzu Trooper. The Trooper antennae mounts on the windshield frame and would be somewhat protected from off road dangers. It’s not completely safe but it’s way better than the factory setup.

A cool thing about this antennae is that it mounts with only two Phillips head screws. It is also super easy to get the wire unwound from under the dash. It only takes about 10 minutes to remove it. The best part is that the guys at the bone yard didn’t charge me for it.

Installation is straight forward. You have to drill 2 holes in the side of your wind shield frame. Run the wire through the wind shield frame and follow where your wiper wiring goes. Snake the plug over to your dash mounted radio. Radios mounted into Tuffy stereo consoles will need a antennae wire extension.

Just a word of advice, Do not try to mount it on the front of the wind shield frame. You won’t be able to thread the plug for the radio through the hole. It is to long to make the corner. Please don’t make the same mistake I made.

I’m happy with this antennae and I think it look way better than stock. For the price it can’t be beat.

Tech article by Jason Bauer (SACHEM)

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Has anyone ever seen this? RUST! The only thing holding my front clip on was the fender bolts and the body supports.

First off start by spraying some penetrating oil on the bolts holding the front grill and fenders on, preferably a couple of days before you start the project. These bolts can be very stubborn with 30+ years of service and most likely several of the clips will break when trying to remove them. Plan on replacing all bolts and clips with new. You will need to remove the battery and the battery tray to get to the bolts holding the front passenger side fender on, also remove the windshield washer fluid bottle on the driver side to gain access to those fender bolts.

Once your grill and fenders are off its time to put on VERY IMPORTANT reference lines. I did this with a 2′ square and a can of cheap primer gray paint “neat tip here”, spray a light colored paint on the general area where you will be laying out your reference marks and let it dry. Place the short end of the square against the doorpost flange and square with the bottom of the inner fender wheel well and mark along all edges of the square. You can also get several more reference points with your tape measure for added insurance (from the cowl flange on the firewall to the front core support). Now layout what rusty areas needed to be removed being sure to save the 3/4″ flange on the firewall “this will be your bolting flange”. I used this flange to make my cut line. I drilled 3 small holes from the inside so that I could use a straight edge on the outside by lining up on the holes insuring that my cut will match perfectly with the firewall flange. Add 3/4″ from the cut line on the firewall side and 2″ to the cut line on the inner fender side “or more or less depending on how much overlay you want when plug welding and bolting back together.

Now you have your cut line and the reference marks for the new piece where it will overlap. I made a pattern of this from poster board and cut it out and tested the fit “looking good”. Once you have your pattern for both sides, drill out the spot welds so that the two pieces can be separated. Both inner fenders have brackets that are spot welded to the firewall that will need to have the spot welds drilled out.

The passenger side inner fender was longer than the driver side and I decided to cut the inner fender so it would match the driver side and also have the same tire clearance on both sides. To do this I removed the two body mount bolts at the front radiator core support and lifted the front clip off the frame. The inner fender bracket that connected the inner fender to the firewall will be in the way of the cut and will need to be drilled off “ you may be able to reuse this bracket, mine was trash” Get the measurement from the driver side inner fender and marked the passenger inner fender and cut to match.

The front clip is cleaned up now and a little attention is needed on the firewall flange where the spot welds were drilled out when removing the rusty sheet metal. Clamp the firewall flange and the kicker panel tight and plug weld these spot weld holes however remember not to weld the three screw holes in the passenger side firewall flange because they hold the air box on and will be used later. Use a body dolly and hammer to straighten out the firewall flange so that you will have a nice smooth bolting surface.

I measured my patterns that I had previously made and decided that a 24 X 30 piece of sheet metal would get both the piece so its off to the local sheet metal shop. I used 16-gauge sheet metal for added strength for the bolt up and also had them use their metal break to bend both of the 24″ ends with a 1″ lip. The final pieces I cut out at home with a fine metal blade in a jigsaw. I clamped the metal down on a worktable and also clamped a straight edge to the sheet metal to help make a straight cut. “Plasma would have been nice however “where there’s a will there’s a way”. Here is my son doing the QC inspecting and insuring the square marks still all line up. Looking good.

The QC inspection passed so its time to tack the new pieces to the clip. There’s 1 butt weld on each piece and that’s were the 1″ lip of the new piece meets up with the top lip on the inner fender. The outside fender will need to set flat on this top lip to fit properly so I used a small piece of angle iron to help make a good straight fit. I tacked each piece in about 4 places and pulled the whole front clip back off to complete the weld up. I plug welded from the inside since the inner fender metal was thinner, ” plus it helped hide the ugly welds from the QC inspector”

I decided to cut about 1′ ½ off the existing kicker panel and shorten the length of my new piece to allow for more tire clearance. I then completed the welding and now its time to layout the boltholes. I drilled out the 3 screws holes where the air box mounted to the firewall flange for 1/4″ bolt holes and used these holes as a bolt pattern for the drivers side firewall flange. I then put the inner clip back on and used a couple of clamps to hold in place once it was realign with the square marks and measurements. From the inside mark through the holes you drilled in the firewall flanges and firewall brackets then pull the inner clip back off enough to drill these holes out.

Both inner fender firewall brackets will need a couple of bolts as well.

I did one last dry fit and insured all was well and everything bolted up so now its time to do some rust preventative. I am going to try the Rust Bullet however any preventative is much better than none.

Tools needed:
light mig welder, Jigsaw and/or Sawzall, 4 ½ grinder, Body dolly and/or Ball peen hammer, C-clamps and/or Vice grips, Spot-weld remover and/or drill

Materials needed:
Approximately one piece of 24” X 30” 16 gauge sheet metal from local sheet metal shop, price $5.00
New Grill and fender bolts and clips from Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, price $20.00
Stainless steel ¼” bolts, washers and nylon lock nuts to bolt the clip to the firewall flange. $5.00

Tech article by Garry Brown (77TexasBronc)

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1. Early Bronco Driver Side Kick Panel Tech article by BroncoWanted WARNING: I claim no responsibility for...

To re-attach the main door glass to the channel which lifts the glass you will need a piece of rubber hose cut to the length of the channel (I used 3/8” fuel line), a pair of scissors, an extra pair of hands and some liquid soap. Take the channel and remove the old rubber gasket, a torch is handy to burn the hardened rubber out, and wire brush the channel as clean as possible. Take the rubber hose and cut it straight down the center. Cut it twice so that you remove a 1/8” section (see pic #1.)

I used the words printed on the side of the hose as a guide to keep the cut straight. Now clean the glass and the inside of the hose with a good glass cleaner or degreaser so that the glass and the hose “stick” to one another. Next slide the hose onto the glass centered between the edges (see pic #2.)

Liberally apply the liquid soap to the outside of the rubber hose and pour some into the channel. Pour enough to make it really slippery otherwise you risk breaking the glass, but try not to get any in-between the hose and the glass. Get your buddy to hold the glass upside down so that you can press the channel onto the glass. Make sure that before you press the channel on you have it centered because it is difficult if not impossible to adjust it once it is set (see pic #3.)

The channel narrows at the top so that once the rubber and the glass are pressed in the rubber expands to keep the glass in place. Insert the finished window back into the door and you’re done.

Note: This works best with the window glass removed from the door.

Tech article by jerry74explorer

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I know that some of us out there are still stuck with the old stock vacuum wipers that for some odd reason ford put in Broncos from 1966 to1968 but if your like me and have better ideas on ways to spend my hard earned cash. I like most of the rest of you will most likely retro fit an electric wiper unit at some time but in the mean time we need what we have to work.In some cases the wipers won’t work at all and sometimes you may have to pullout on the switch to make the wiper move down and then push it in to make it return and this is not the way they operate. When hooked up correctly and greased properly they don’t work half bad considering they are vacuum driven.

If you just follow the steps below you can have them working like new in less then an hour and at little or no cost. Now just reassemble in reverse order .

1. Remove wiper units from bronco. {See. Fig 1}
2. Remove the cover on the front of the unit. The two small flat head screws hold it on.
3. Pry the hook off the pin but do not remove it. At this time remove the 4 odd screws on the top cover with a pare of needle nose pliers and the two large flat head screws on both sides of the hook. {See. Fig 2}
4. Now remove the cover to the main chamber housing of the wiper {See Fig.2}
5. Now all you have to do is clean and re grease the main chamber. Acetone works good to cut the old dried out grease that you are likely to find gumming up the main chamber and flap valve.
6. Now apply a nice coat of Multi-Purpose Grease {See. Fig 3} and work the flap valve back and forth to spread the grease.

After re-assembly when you turn the wiper shaft you should hear the vacuum entering the unit. Also if for some reason the seal {See. Fig 4} is destroyed on the main chamber cover during removal a new one can be made from light gasket martial from any auto store or some rtv sealant. Good luck.

Tech article by Bryan E Couch (Jeep Slayer)

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