While gathering parts for my 5.0 EFI install I happened across a two speed electric fan from a 2004 Jeep Liberty, part number 55037669AE. This Liberty did not have the towing package. With the towing package the Liberty will have a different electric and a mechanical fan. The shape looked simple enough to make fitment easy and the depth was only about 4 ½” which was as short as I have seen any others.

After comparing it to my Ron Davis radiator I found that only minor trimming would be required to seal it to the radiator. Other Bronco radiators would probably have a similar fit.

Here’s a little more detailed view. Some minor trimming was also required at the upper radiator mount areas.

As you can see the fan shroud completely covers the radiator core with about ¼” to ½” extra over the tanks. This will prevent the fan from rubbing holes into the core tubes.
To mount the fan I used the radiator’s shroud mounting flanges at the top and bottom along with some ½” x ½” aluminum angle and some ¼”-20 bolts and locknuts . These photos show the bottom mounting.

The top is similar but the angle is reversed. I found it necessary to use captive speed nuts on the top four bolt holes. Can’t get to the inside once the fan is on the radiator.

I didn’t have the mating plug for the fan connector so I replaced it with a 3-pin Weatherpack connector. If you get the fan from a wrecking yard be sure to grab the other side of the connector also. The fan side of the connector is at the top. The black wire gets connected to ground and 12 volts on either of the blue wires will provide low speed. 12 volts on both blue wires will give you high speed.

I mounted two relays and a terminal strip on the inner fender just behind the battery to power the fan. The 12V control wires for the relays both run inside to a control panel.

I made a control panel for the fan and mounted it in the speaker opening of the dash. The amber LED will light if the fan is off (disabled). The green LED lights when the fan is actually running. No lights are on when the fan is enabled in automatic mode but not running. The LEDs are from Radio Shack, part numbers 276-272 and 276-271, $1.99 each I’ve wired it so automatic mode will only operate with the key on, manual mode will operate at any time.

Wiring for the switch panel is shown here. You’ll need two DPDT ON-ON miniature switches and one SPDT ON-ON miniature switch. I used some switches that I’ve been holding on to for years but Newark has part number 98K4949 for $1.46 each and 98K4963 at $1.10 each.

In order to have an automatic mode I needed to install a temperature controlled switch. I used an adjustable thermostat (upper thermostat) from an electric water heater. I found it at Lowes for about $14, item #: 26358. I removed the unneeded upper portion of the thermostat and used an ohmmeter to determine which contacts to use. You want the normally open contacts that close as temperature exceeds the set point. I mounted the thermostat on the lower radiator hose close to the radiator.

The thermostat works surprisingly well during most driving conditions and is easily adjustable for turn-on temperature. It does have some time delay between when the upper engine reaches temperatures above normal and when the switch closes. This will cause my engine temp to swing between 190 degrees (195 degree thermostat) and 215 degrees during very steep uphill climbs or prolonged idling. During these conditions I can select the manual fan mode and the fan will run continuously, keeping the temperature at a steady 190 degrees. Eventually I will go to a top mounted fan switch to prevent this hysteresis. This will only involve installation of the new switch and re-routing of the existing thermo-switch wiring. I have not found it necessary to use the high speed setting yet even during strenuous off-roading sessions on hot days. On the flat, open road the fan does not switch on at speeds over 35 mph. Also the fan is so quiet that I can’t hear it with the engine running from inside. I should also add that in automatic mode the fan speed is determined by the position of the Hi-Lo switch.
Installed, I have 3/16” clearance between the fan and the explorer serpentine water pump snout. It is possible to trim the plastic back of the fan housing a small amount to provide another ¼” of clearance if needed. I haven’t done this and don’t see that it’s necessary for my application.

The top, bottom and sides fit very nicely to the radiator tanks and overall it looks like factory fit. After a month of testing this fan and control circuitry I am very pleased with the operation of it. I’ve taken it on some very steep 4-low crawling hill climbs and it has performed flawlessly.

No related posts.

After reading about all the cooling problems that you can have with the 351 I did some research on how to minimize the problems I could have. After some reading I discovered that some intakes did not have the rear cooling ports open for use of the cooling system. Checked my new one and discovered mine were not open either and the front ones were partially blocked by some factory casting mess. A Dremel tool and a carbide bit took care of the front ports. Now the work on the rear ones.

Took a 5/8ths bit and opened the rear ports.

Designed my setup, keeping in mind the preheat hose for the carb choke on my setup. A little drawing and down to the hardware store.

Cost of the whole thing was under 20 dollars, $18.14 to be exact. Had the heater hose so cost was not considered. About 3 feet of hose. Tapped the left hole for a 3/8 NPT elbow and threaded it in with some thread sealer (5 minute epoxy, I hate leaks).

Let epoxy set and threaded in the hose nipple with proper thread sealer.

This completed the driver side. Went for a cold one and a bathroom break and returned about 15 minutes later.

The right side is another story. I discovered that this manifold was rather unique. I acquired it out of California for ten dollars because I wanted a Ford, nonEGR, 2 barrel manifold. It transpired that the manifold is the dual-plane model off a Mustang Mach car of the 69/70 vintage. The back runner for #4 cylinder is very high and it was necessary to build a very high connector on this side. Enough of the sob story, on with the install.

Tapped the right side with a 1/2 inch NPT. Pain where it hurts!! Never again will I go this big a opening for this type of install. Had to install a bushing to bring it down to 3/8 anyway so it was a waste.

Used the usual thread sealer on this one too. Did I say I hated leaks?? Now for the four way TEE that I needed for this install. One outlet for the left cooling channel, one outlet for the choke preheat channel, one for the right side cooling channel and one outlet for connection to the cooling system. No-one makes a four way TEE so I made one out of a standard tee and drill and tap for the fourth connection. See pictures for the result. Looks pretty good if I do say so myself.

Installed on the bushing with the proper thread sealer. I mounted this fitting on a 1 and 1/2 brass nipple to lift it up to clear the runner. This was not enough. Next round it will be a 2 inch nipple. If you are doing this with this manifold, use a 2 inch nipple (cost is an extra dollar, whooppee, cost is going to kill us) Mounted and left overnight for the thread sealer to set up firmly.

Next day, installed the hoses on the nipples and dropped the manifold on the motor. I put a short piece of hose with the TEE for the cooling system connection so you can see how this would work. Looks great and will help keep the monster cool.

No related posts.