The heat exchanger: I found this at a refrigeration supply store. It is called a ½ ton coaxial coil exchanger. It is a tube in tube design and is very affective. In fact, it may be too good. The water coming out of my showerhead is pushing 112 degrees. For testing, I filled a huge cooler full of ice and then added water. Water was under 40 degrees and at the shower end…perfect shower water. It cost me $56.00

Hook up the exchanger by simply tapping into the heater core lines. There are heater control valves to assist you with this. The water from the radiator should flow in the opposite direction of the shower water. This gives better heat transfer.

As you can see in the picture I have added a compression fitting to connect to the line that goes to the showerhead. Compression fittings work, but I would suggest something that you can solder on for less chance of leaks. Get one end threaded so you can disconnect the line easily. It is 3/8th outside diameter (OD). On the line coming in from the pump use a hose clamp. The dimensions are as follows. The outside diameter of the coiled part of the exchanger is 6 inches. The ends sticking out for the connections are about 3 inches. Sitting flat the entire exchanger is about 4.5 inches tall. You can see one of two mounting holes in the center of the coil. Laying flat on the drivers-side inner fender with the pump mounted next to it is a very good fit. Might be a tight fit with the power brake booster, but I think it should still fit. One more note on the exchanger. If you truly want an exchanger designed for domestic water there is a version made of nickel…or dipped…or something like that. It is resistant to corrosion. It doubles the price though and my thought is this…Let it run for 20 seconds and then start showering. Any residue from the last shower will clear. Also, the river water is probably not that clean anyway.

In the below picture you can see the how I connected the exchanger. I by-passed the heater core entirely for my testing in this picture. In the picture you can see the output (normally to heater core) coming off the water pump going to the exchanger. The return line on the top going into the intake manifold. ¾” heater hose is cheap and can be found a Home Depot. 5-6 bucks include hose clamps

In the next picture you can see the entire set up. The pump is a Flowjet marine application pump. Another good pump is a Shurflo. It has a bit better water lifting capacity, but he Flowjet is a bit quieter and quick disconnects the hoses. Shurflo might do that too…not sure. Whatever you get you want self-priming and at least 3 gallons per minute…and 12 volt. Either pump can lift water 4 feet easy. The pump (Camping World – Flowjet Quiet Quad II) costs $65.00. Showerhead at Home Depot…$3-4 bucks. White plastic hose is domestic water line and is very cheap per foot…I think $.12 cents per foot.

Here’s a good look at how I would put it in. The exchanger would need to move a bit towards the fire wall and to the center to clear the steel hood cross member when closed. I’d say 1 inch each way is all. I haven’t bolted it down in this picture. If you spend some time routing lines, setting up quick disconnect, wiring in a switch you’ll have unlimited hot water virtually anywhere. Please be careful not to burn yourself or a little one. The safest way to operate the system is to start it and don’t stop it. If you do stop it, start it again point away from you. The pumps have over-load switched built in and can stop and start, but shouldn’t unless it clogs or the pressure on the pump increase for some reason.

Steps to running the system: position the vehicle so that the water source is as level to the vehicle as possible…above is good too…this just takes pressure off the pump and increase pump life. Again, a 4-5 foot lift will work. Start the vehicle to warm as you hook up the lines. It doesn’t have to be HOT to work. Turn the switch on and leave it on. Find the distance from you to the showerhead that is comfortable and start scrubbing up. Please use biodegradable soap. I fish and want them healthy too. Click here for a fairly compact lightweight shower enclosure. ENJOY!

by Marlon Allen

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I guess you could call this a Junkyard Tig Welder. The idea is you can mount a regular Ford 130 amp 3G style alternator on to your air compressor (or similar motor) so that you can use the belt drive off of the compressor to turn the alternator. Using a battery jumpstart box to give the field its current, then regulate the current through a headlight dimmer switch. Then hook your Tig torch up to the case of the alternator and run the ground clamp to the output stud.

Basically the motor from the compressor will be able to spin the alternator fast enough (approximately 6000-7000 RPM’s) to generate the necessary power. You will probably have to put a v-style pulley on the alternator for sufficient tension. The green wire on the alternator is connected to the case as is the torch and the negative side of the jumpstart box. The blue wire is the field current, which runs to the dimmer switch so that the current from the jumper box can be varied to the desired output for the alternator, and then it goes to the positive side of the jumpstart box. Then the grounding clamp is connected off of the positive stud on the alternator.

Fortunately alternators are rated for 100% duty cycle so once you get it started (you have to scratch start it) it can keep going. At the full 130 amps you limited to about 3/16 maybe 1/4 inch metal. If you really want to get fancy you can run a wire from the negative side of the jumper box to a micro switch on the handle of the torch and tie it to a relay between the dimmer switch and the battery so that you can stop the arc and continue to hold the torch in place to cool the weld with the shielding gas. Other than that the only other things you would need would be an accessory kit for tig welding and a gas bottle with argon.

I know there are allot of people who like to, or would like to do their own fabrication and the price of a good Tig Welder can run from about 2000 to 5000 dollars which makes it just a little pricey. So, if there was a way to get those results for about 300 dollars I thought I should pass it on. I cannot take credit for this idea but, there a number of people where I got it that said it works great but as with any kind of welding it takes a few times to get the touch. I am currently in the process of collecting all the material to put it personally to the test and hopefully can have some decent results. I am also including some pictures and a simplified diagram.

Tech article by Richard Burris (ricks77eb)

Simplified Drawing without micro switch.

Simplified Drawing with micro switch.

Alternator mounted to compressor for Tig.

Example Weld: 304 stainless schedule 10 pipe weld

Example Weld: Custom made header

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This rotisserie will fit a early Bronco body (66-77, no frame), with the front clip (inner fenders, etc.) removed. It will allow for easier access to the underside of the tub for blasting, patching and painting. With the addition of casters, it also makes the tub very mobile. I highly recommend completely stripping the tub � top, interior, doors windshield, tailgate, dash, wiring, etc.) Makes it easier to lift, and if you don’t, the center of gravity may be off and the rotisserie will not rotate smoothly. Mine is “one finger” easy, and fit perfect the 1st try! It’s not that elegant, but it works.

The Bronco front clip is welded on from the factory, but in most cases will be 90% rusted off at the join between the kick panel and the inner fender anyhow, so break out the sawzall on them. The inner fender well also mounts to the upper floor pans, these spot welds can be drilled out. That said, if your front clip and inner fenders / tub are OK, you may want to leave it attached, but you will need to modify the rotisserie length and front arm to fit (not hard, but you’re on you’re own for those measurements). Additionally, I don’t know if the front clip is rigid enough to support the tub weight without bending or being unstable, especially for a side load (i.e.: rotisserie rotated 90o).

Please be aware that a Bronco tub off the frame, especially those with rust, may bend or fold up in door area when lifted unless the door openings are reinforced across the top. Mine was quite solid, but I still bolted in some angle iron from the top of the kick panel to the lip on the inside top of the rear quarters just behind the door opening. No point risking folding it up. Mine had these holes already drilled, not sure if they’re factory or not.

Check the height of your garage ceiling, mine is about 8′ and I can rotate mine inside the garage with some clearance, if it’s lower than about 7′6′, you may not get it to 90o / 270 o inside.

Well, let’s get to it!

Required Tools and Skills:

1. Basic welding and torch skills and welder (arc or MIG, even TIG I suppose), capable of welding 0.188″ wall mild steel
2. Band or chop saw
3. Cutting torch (Oxygen/Acetylene or Plasma)
4. Grinder with metal pads / discs
5. Drill press (optional, but very handy)
6. Various steel working tools (clamps, large and small squares, center punch, chalk, files, metal marker, BFH , etc)
7. Cold beer
8. A helper (see beer above)

I have only ever welded like 2 booger beads before so I recruited my brother, a welder by trade, so I have to give him a lot of credit for assembly, but the design was a shared brainchild. But if you can get a decent “fish scale” weld, are able to square everything up when you do your tack welds, and run a torch OK, you should be able to complete this.

Estimated time to completion:

Varies, took me and my brother (welder) a full day or so. We stopped for beer quite regularly.

Materials:

1. 36′ of 3″ OD, 0.188″ wall square tubing (3 x 12′)
2. 16′ of 2″ OD, 0.188″ wall square tubing (2 x 8′)
3. 2′ of approx. 3″ pipe, with an ID to fit 2″ pipe below (in Canada Schedule 80 2″ pipe is slightly more than 2 3/8′ OD)
4. 3′ of 2″ pipe, with an OD to snugly fit inside the 3″ pipe above, check in advance.
5. 8″ of 2″ ID “trailer hitch receiver” tubing (has no seam inside)
6. 4 swivel mount casters rated for at least 250 lbs each, pneumatics with a ground to mounting flange height of >11″ with wheel lock recommended, way better for “4 wheelin” the rotisserie on loose surfaces or over extension cords, air lines, onto a car hauler, etc. Note if you use smaller casters you will need to modify the leg design accordingly.
7. 12′ to 16′ of about 1.5″ square tubing for use as an alignment tool for the swivels, must be straight, can be salvaged after (will not be cut)
8. Various hardware and fasteners (depends on application, these can be sourced after the rotisserie is assembled)

Assembly:

1. Inventory your materials and equipment.
2. Fire up the saw, cut list:

3″ OD 0.188″ wall square tubing:

1. 1. 1 x 126″
   2. 2 x 34″
   3. 4 x 12″
   4. 4 x 10″
   5. 2 x 44″

1. At this point, you may want to drill the D pieces if you are bolting on the casters, the larger ones. Note that 3″ tubing may not be large enough to bolt on the casters, you may need to weld angle iron or plate to make the mounting surface large enough to accommodate bolts. I chose the weld them on. At any rate, do not mount them yet.
2. On a flat surface, lay out the following according to the diagram: 1 x B, 2 x C and 2 x D. Note that the B and D pieces are to be butt welded to C, flush with the ends of C. Mark, tack weld, square, and finish weld. Repeat for other end. You should have 2 funky legs now. Do not mount the casters yet.
3. Most likely on the floor, lay out A with the funky legs on each end, center A on B, and orient correctly according to diagram. Note that A will be butt welded the end pieces. Mark, tack weld, square, and finish weld. You now have the main frame assembled.
4. Center an E piece on A, upright. Mark, tack weld, square, and finish weld. Repeat for other end. You should now have the rotisserie taking shape, frame, leg ends, and uprights.
5. Saw action. Cut list:

3″ pipe (see materials list, this is the outside pipe):

1. 1. 2 x 12″

1. Mark and drill 1/2″ holes through the sides of both F pieces, on center. This will be used to secure the swivel by bolting through. You could also weld a nut onto these holes and use a pinch bolt inn the inner pipe (infinitely adjustable degree), but since mine is going to be on a car hauler, I elected to use a bolt through the inner and outer to guarantee a secure position at 0o. 90o, 180o, and 270o are also secured, good enough for me for now. Your call. Actually, you could do the nut and pinch bolt on one end, and the bolt through on the other, best of both worlds – that’s my ticket!
2. Mark the top end of an upright E using the pipe F for a saddle notch, on both sides, note the orientation of the pipe and thus the notch. Fire up the torch and cut carefully, the alignment between both ends here is key can be adjusted when tacking, to some degree, but a bad cut can booger it. Repeat on other upright. Clean notches up with grinder.
3. Using the alignment tubing, place the pipe F in the saddle notches, such that 1″ of F overhangs to the inside, the remainder to the outside (about 8″). Clamp the alignment tubing onto the pipe ends, double check measurements and alignment, tack weld, re-check and adjust alignment, then finish weld.
4. Mount the casters (weld or bolt, see previous notes).
5. Admire your handiwork so far, play with rotisserie frame, make zooming sounds and push it across floor, jump on it for a ride.
6. Back to the saw for the swivels. Cut list:

2″ pipe (see materials list, this is the inside pipe):

1. 1. 2 x 18″

   2″ ID “trailer hitch receiver” tubing

   2. 2 x 4″

1. Mark and drill 1/2″ holes through the sides of both H pieces, on center.
2. Center the pipe G on the side of the tubing H. Tack, square, and finish weld. This piece will provide the swivel action and locate the arms for height.
3. Insert inner swivel piece into rotisserie and swivel. Swivel, swivel, swivel. Yay!
4. Onto the arms, more sawing. Cut list:

16′ of 2″ OD, 0.188″ wall square tubing:

1. 1. 2 x 30″
   2. 1 x 41″
   3. 1 x 28.5″
   4. 1 x 16″
   5. 1 x 6″

1. Drill J so that you have �” holes through, 38.5″ on centers, centered on the tubing. This will allow the front arm to bolt the floor pan body mounts holes. See diagrams.
2. Drill K so that you have �” holes through, 26.5″ on centers, centered on the tubing. This will allow the rear arm to bolt the rear floor body mounts holes.
3. Now, how adjustable do you want the arms to be for height? Depending on your tub, and what’s in or on it, the center of gravity will vary, in addition to the front and rear body mounts not exactly being level to one another. As well, I was guessing where the CG was on mine, and wanted to use the rotisserie in the future on other projects. So I drilled the “I” pieces with �” holes on 1.5″ centers the whole length of them. Thank god for the drill press! If it’s only gonna be for an EB, and the tub is bare, drill these holes only in the middle 10″ portion. You decide. I would not recommend substituting a pinch bolt here, you want to bolt right through, don’t want that tub falling.
4. Assemble the front arm, butt weld L to J and I, see diagram. Tack, square, and finish weld.
5. Assemble the rear arm, butt weld M to K and I, as above.
6. Insert the arms in the swivels and test for fit.
7. Get very excited, call over about 4 buddies to lift tub.
8. Brace tub across door openings!
9. Secure arms to the under side of the tub, front and rear, using bolts and washers, perhaps old body mounts between tub and arm, if you have ‘em.
10. Insert swivels in rotisserie, lift tub with arms attached into swivels, bolt in place when tub is mostly level, and/or lines up well with rotisserie center line.
11. Center the tub between the uprights (using said buddies), then give the uprights a whack with the hammer to release any friction and deflection in the uprights. Check center again.
12. Drill the inner swivel pipe for the bolts to secure @ various degrees, or secure pinch bolt.
13. Swivel your EB! Roll the entire tub around the block! Whee!
14. I later elected to build a spreader that goes across the top of the tub from arm to arm. The rotisserie has some degree of deflection in the arms due to the fit of the 2″ tubing in the receiver tubing, and the pipe in pipe swivel clearances. I was worried about stressing the tub while on the car hauler (bouncing up and down). The spreader reduces this stress by adding some preload in the opposite direction. Not a problem if the rotisserie isn’t traveling. Email me for details.

Tech article by Malcolm Beattie (malcolmzilla)

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Several years ago, I installed a 2 ½” suspension lift on my mostly stock ‘70 Bronco. The lift turned out very well, and I was very pleased with myself. It completely changed the way my Bronco looked, and I was proud to drive it down the street. So proud, in fact, that I could completely ignore the newly created vibration in the suspension. For a while, anyway… For the last year however, that vibration has become more irritating, since by then, I was pretty sure what caused it. In my Bronco, the vibration started around 40 mph. and continued through 65 mph. or so, which is as fast as I ever seem to drive my Bronco.

The reason for the vibration was the increase in the pinion angle from installing the suspension lift. The term “pinion angle” is generally considered to be the difference, expressed in degrees, between the centerline of the pinion gear in the rear differential, and the centerline of the driveshaft. The increase in pinion angle is due to the suspension lift raising the frame and drivetrain, including the transfer case, and not the rear differential. Since the transfer case end of the driveshaft is now several inches higher, the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion gear is increased.

Normal, or stock pinion angle, is somewhere around 1-1 ½ °. As the pinion angle increases past 3-4°, the u-joint will experience increased wear and possible premature failure. As the pinion angle increases past 9-10°, the vibration I experienced will be felt, along with the increased wear on the u-joint.

Here’s a picture showing the rear yoke and driveshaft. You can see with your eyes how much of a difference there is.

So, now that I knew what the problem was, what were my options for fixing it. One option could be to remove the rear differential, cut off the spring perches, rotate the differential to obtain the proper pinion angle, and then re-weld the spring perches back on. But I wasn’t too happy with that option. That seemed like more work than necessary, and, I don’t own a welder.

Another option is to install some tapered shims between the leaf springs and the spring perches. This would wind up rotating the rear differential housing, and it’s a simple bolt-on. This seems like the best choice.

Now that I had decided on installing the shims, I needed to determine what angle shims to install. This would involve measuring the current pinion angle. I did search on Google for “measure pinion angle”, and had a listing of more technical articles that I could read in a lifetime.

There are two methods for measuring the pinion angle. The first method uses an angle measuring gauge (adjustable protractor) to measure the difference between the pinion flange and the drive shaft directly. These gauges are available for under $10 from a hardware store. Place the edge of the gauge vertically against the front of the pinion flange, beside the driveshaft. Extend the measuring arm forward parallel to the bottom of the driveshaft. Extend a straight edge under the driveshaft to the measuring arm of the angle gauge. Hold the straight edge flat against the bottom of the driveshaft and adjust the measuring arm to read the angle. Depending on the gauge you use, you may have to subtract 90° from your reading to get the correct number.

The second method measures the angle, from horizontal, of the driveshaft and pinion shaft separately, then comparing the two. You can use a gravity angle gauge (available at hardware stores) to do the measuring. I happened to already have a machinists level, which seemed to work just fine.

My first step was to measure the angle of the driveshaft. Just lay the angle finder or, in my case, the level, along the length of the driveshaft. Adjust the angle until the bubble is centered, then note the angle. For me, the angle was 18 ½° from horizontal.

Next, measure the pinion gear centerline angle. Since you can’t really get to the pinion gear shaft, the acceptable thing to do is to measure the angle of something at 90° from the pinion shaft, and add (or subtract) 90° from that reading. I chose to measure across the face of the yoke, so I removed the two u-joint u-bolts and moved the driveshaft out of the way. Then placed the level across the face of the yoke, and took my measurement. This turned out to be 8°. So, the difference between the driveshaft angle and the pinion shaft angle is 10 ½°. Looks like I need some correction!

When determining what degree shims to buy, remember that installing shims rotates the differential, which will raise the yoke relative to the transfer case. This changes the driveshaft angle, which ultimately reduces the pinion angle. I wanted to wind up with about 2° of pinion angle when I was done. With my current 10 ½° pinion angle, I would have been inclined to order 8° shims. But, after thinking about the yoke moving up, lessening the driveshaft angle, I decided to order 6° shims.

In doing some research on installing rear axle shims, I constantly came across recommendations to NOT use aluminum shims, especially cast aluminum. It seems they have a tendency to deform over time, and, on occasion, crack and fall out. This leaves the rear differential loose on the springs. I ran across a company in California, 4Crawler Offroad, that custom makes several items for off-road vehicles, including steel axle shims. I can’t say enough good things about 4Crawler Offroad and their web site. Not only do they offer quality products for sale, but, as an example, in the section on shims, provides and explanation of the shims and what they do, how to measure for shims, how to install shims, FAQ, etc. If you can’t tell, this company impressed me. Find them at http://www.4crawler.com/4×4/ForSale/Shims.shtml.

The shims I ordered were a stock size, 4 ¼” by 2 ½” by 6°. I placed the order through the web site and had the shims in just a couple days. Here’s a picture of the received shims.

Now that I’ve got the shims, I need to install them. First step is to jack up the Bronco and support it by the frame, then remove the wheels to aid access to the axle u-bolts. Here’s a picture of how I manage to get a little extra height out of my 4 ton jack stands.

Support one side of the differential with a floor jack. Although the pictures don’t show it, my jack is under the brake drum. Remove one end of the shock so it doesn’t limit the droop of the differential when you remove the u-bolts. I’m still running the stock rear shock mounts, and it was easier to remove the top of the shock. Some type of penetrating oil is always a good idea on these types of projects.

Remove the u-bolts and spring retainer. Position a c-clamp on each end of the lower leaf and tighten, to hold the spring pack together when removing the leaf spring bolt.

Lower this end of the differential, and use whatever type of persuasion is necessary, until the leaf spring bolt comes loose from the spring perch. Remove the leaf spring bolt. Here’s a picture of the removed leaf spring bolt, for anyone who hasn’t seen one before. Note the round head to fit the hole in the spring perch.

My 6° shims are about ¼” thick where the spring bolt goes through. I got lucky and had an extra ¼” of thread left on my spring bolt. If you don’t have enough bolt thread left, you will have to buy new, longer spring bolts. Measure the original bolt carefully, as the replacement spring bolts come in different size heads, as well as lengths. Insert the spring bolt through the correct side of the shim, slide back through the spring pack, and tighten up the nut. These shims are made with a relief on one side so the spring bolt head has a surface that’s parallel to the spring. This way the spring bolt head won’t get cocked to one side as it’s tightened.

Jack up the differential, making sure the spring bolt head gets fully inserted into the spring perch. Reassembly is pretty much the opposite of disassembly. Finish up one side, then on to the other side. Total time to install the shims, from jacking up the Bronco to cleaning and putting away my tools was only 3 hours, including time to take pictures. Here’s a picture of the installed shim.

I got everything back together and took a final measurement of the pinion angle. I was happy to find that I wound up with a 2° pinion angle. Of course I had to take it for a ride and was amazed to find how smooth it drove. All the vibrations I’d been living with for the past several years was gone. This project was a big success!!!

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