Oven cleaner on Alumunum rims?

74BroncoCO · Jun 11, 2007

So I saw an episode of trucks were the guy cleaned up some anodized aluminum body trim with some Oven Cleaner and then flitz. My question is I have a set of Champion Beadlocks wheels that were subjected to the Nasty Mag Chloride they use to melt the snow in CO. The stuff stained my rims and even the expensive rim cleaner won't work. I want to order the flitz anyway, but I am wondering if oven cleaner is a good move or not. I think the wheels are the American Racing Baja's. Is there a coating on them I need to be aware of? If I got them clean enough, I'd consider a clear Powercoat for them. Thanks!

J.D.

Tito · Jun 11, 2007

I saw that too, I am hoping to try it out also on some trim.

muladesigns1 · Jun 11, 2007

If the rims are clearcoated it may lift the clear. if the rims are not clear coated they may be to porus. (what to do?)
Test a small spot on the back of the rims. I have a set of clear coated from the factory rims on my Daily Driver and the brake dust spray works great! I tried using it on my non clear coated aluminum rims, and it stained them with a milky haze that took me 3 hrs of polishing to remove!

Broncobowsher · Jun 11, 2007

The oven cleaner is a stripper. I have used it to remove old paint, clean up firewalls, etc. The TV said it was used to remove the coating on the aluminium. Being that clearcoat is paint without color, that is what they were removing.

All the oven cleaner did was strip the clearcoat so the polish could polish the aluminium instead of the clearcoat.

If it will work on the rims epends on how badly damaged the rims are.

regshawn · Jun 11, 2007

Be careful on what oven cleaner you use on aluminum. I have tried a few over the years, and easy off in the yellow can is safe for the aluminum, the others will really mess them up (like a motor cycle engine left out in the elements for years). But it works well, as a degreaser and paint remover for sure.

Shawn

byson1 · Jun 11, 2007

I've used very fine 000, or 0000, steel wool in combination with Mother's alum. polish (any alum. polish would work) to clean some old slot wheels I bought. It did a good job. I've also used tub/tile cleaner since it is acidic and it cleans pretty well.

d.c.parris · Jun 11, 2007

the oven cleaner will remove anodizing from aluminum then you can polish the aluminum you can also use red devil lye diluted with water but you have to let it soak for about 20 min then rinse with clear water then polish i did this to all the alum trim on my mustang works great

muladesigns1 · Jun 11, 2007

Actually, Oven Cleaner can safely be used on painted and powder coated surfaces. It is one of the tricks to remove old pinstripe and hand lettering on a truck before doing new. It will only remove aftermarket, NOT factory. remember factory paint has no hardner in it. It is baked on at aprox 300 Degrees whereas aftermarket paint has a hardner and is only baked on at 125 Degrees

deltarat · Jun 11, 2007

I would try it on the back of one first. I use oven cleaner all the time to clean greasy parts, but I have had it stain aluminum at times.

byson1 · Jun 12, 2007

muladesigns1 said:
Actually, Oven Cleaner can safely be used on painted and powder coated surfaces. It is one of the tricks to remove old pinstripe and hand lettering on a truck before doing new. It will only remove aftermarket, NOT factory. remember factory paint has no hardner in it. It is baked on at aprox 300 Degrees whereas aftermarket paint has a hardner and is only baked on at 125 Degrees

That is not correct. All modern factory paint jobs use urethane paints (99% with clear coat) that have a hardener mixed in with it. That is why they last so long. They are baked at high tempertures for the sole purpose of getting them to dry much faster and thus, through the assembly line quicker. They are painted and baked bare steel and then the rest of the pastic body parts and wrining are added so they won't melt. This is why the aftermarket paint jobs can only go up to the 120-130 degree temp. And that is only necessary if you are trying to get the paint to dry sooner.

74BroncoCO · Jun 12, 2007

I will have to try the easy off on the back of one of the rims, but I am not sure it'll be a good test only because I think there is a different finish (if any) on the back of the rims. I guess if there is no staining on the back, then I will know the stain is in the anodizing.

Are most aluminum rims anodized?

J.D.

muladesigns1 · Jun 12, 2007

Byson while I was at a PPG technical meeting they explained to us the process of how the paints were mixed and all. The PPG Rep told us there was no hardner in the factory paints. And yes I know they are urethane, thats standard on all production cars. Anyway, The manufacture does not need hardner because they are baking it at such a hi temp where as if we paint it we can not duplicate the 300+ needed to cure the paint. Our booths only go up to a little over 120. Thats why we use hardner and the assembly line does not.

BroncoinAlaska · Jun 12, 2007

When you do get the aluminum stiped to bare material. Use regual windex to keep the rims clean, works great!! If you plan to clear or powercoat them after you have polished them, the rims may come out hazy or not as shinny. I striped and polished a set of motorsport rims ( for another car) then went to have them powdercoated clear and they came out dull and not as nice as the Raw aluminum polished look. It may take a little more maitance but the difference was noticeable in my case.

byson1 · Jun 13, 2007

muladesigns1 said:
Byson while I was at a PPG technical meeting they explained to us the process of how the paints were mixed and all. The PPG Rep told us there was no hardner in the factory paints. And yes I know they are urethane, thats standard on all production cars. Anyway, The manufacture does not need hardner because they are baking it at such a hi temp where as if we paint it we can not duplicate the 300+ needed to cure the paint. Our booths only go up to a little over 120. Thats why we use hardner and the assembly line does not.

You are right, I stand corrected. I found that among other methods they primarily use a thermoset resin. That's what I get for assuming.
74Bronco sorry for getting off track here. Good luck cleaning your wheels.

muladesigns1 · Jun 13, 2007

No problem, thats what these forums are all about, educate our fellow wheeler.
hey also found another tid bit on the paint. Remember when GM had there paint falling off issues ( i know Dodge was most known for it ). But GM was messing with the mixing ratio and put less then PPG recomended, They figured if the put half the amount of resin they would save X $, When the paint failed GM tried to blame the paint manufacturer ( of course ). Now PPG sends a man to oversee every pour of paint into the tanks and has him watch them mix all the ingredients. And of course charges for the mans time!

74BroncoCO · Jun 13, 2007

BroncoinAlaska said:
When you do get the aluminum stiped to bare material. Use regual windex to keep the rims clean, works great!! If you plan to clear or powercoat them after you have polished them, the rims may come out hazy or not as shinny. I striped and polished a set of motorsport rims ( for another car) then went to have them powdercoated clear and they came out dull and not as nice as the Raw aluminum polished look. It may take a little more maitance but the difference was noticeable in my case.

Thanks! It seems obvious, then, that the stain is not on the rim itself, but rather the coating on top. If the powercoating is going to dull them, I am not opposed to a good coat of wax to protect them as well. That was the best defence on my factory Superduty wheels. Anyway I think I'll order the flitz, see if that works. If not, then I'll try the oven cleaner. I will also conect American Racing and see what they recommend.

J.D.

Oven cleaner on Alumunum rims?

74BroncoCO

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Tito

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