New Painless questions

malcolmzilla · Jun 17, 2007

Can't quite figure these out from the instructions:

Rear fuel tank sender:

Does the Painless harness provide a ground? There are 2 wires in the tail section, a red and brown w/ white both marked as fuel senders. Perhaps one is for the aux. tank (which I am not running) and I need to provide my own ground?

Neutral safety switch:

Again, unclear from the instructions, but wouldn't the starter solenoid wire be a logical one to route into the NSS side of the transmission harness then on to the solenoid? I will also leave myself a bypass though, the switch and trans harness are old.

Thanks.

swa0330 · Jun 17, 2007

The sender has a ground I think. It has been a while since I wired mine, but I remember that the BC tank had a ground wire coming from the sender. SOmeone correct me if I am wrong. I remember that I just took the wire and through a loop end on it and grounded it with one of the bolts that holds the tank.

JWMcCrary · Jun 17, 2007

I had to supply my own ground wire for the fuel senders. The 2 wires in the painless harness are for main tank and aux tank.

I can't remember the number on the wire but it was purple that went to the solinoid, I spliced that wire into the NSS. The purple is larger than the NSS wires also.

malcolmzilla · Jun 17, 2007

Thanks guys!

malcolmzilla · Jun 19, 2007

Working my way thru.

Backup lights, don't have 'em yet... I checked the transmission switch and using my multimeter it looks good in "R". I tested the lights and tail section, they come one when I put power to it, but it seems I have no power at the red wire into the backup switch right out of the painless harness... ?

I have not yet wired up the fuel sender, that's tonight.

Also found the purple start solenoid power to run into the NSS. I terminated it with male and female ends so I can bypass it easily if required. Tonight I cut the purple and see if it works! IIRC I did adjust it and it worked when pulled. Multimeter shows its OK.

Also, a note, maybe its my booklet that are wrong, but the green and yellow rear brake/turn terminations on the new flat column connector are reversed if you follow the instructions. Make sure to match em to the painless side.

malcolmzilla · Jun 20, 2007

OK, gotta call Painless.

Wiper wash motor is terminated and runs when I put power to it, but depressing the new supplied switch wont run it. I tried an old switch and the same thing so WTF.

Still no power at the backup light hot wire out of the harness either.

Sender hooked up, what a pain to get at that on a 77 tank with no body lift, had to drop the tank out... No worky but I only have a couple gallons of fuel so I'll add a few more and see if it moves.

malcolmzilla · Jun 20, 2007

OK, just got off the phone with Painless...

Yes there was a problem with the early instruction manuals.

On early harnesses wiper switch harness needs an additional jumper to provide power for the wash, easy fix tho...

And I either cooked the fuse on the backups, or my trickle charger doesnt have enough jam to power all accessories when the ignition is on...

socalbrandon · Jun 20, 2007

I also having Pains with with my new wiper switch, I can't get the washer pump top run. Could you tell me how to set the jumper wire?

Thanks
Brandon

malcolmzilla · Jun 20, 2007

You need a jumper from the main wiper switch power in "C" tab (orange) to the "H" washer power - missing on some early production harnesses...

Painless will send you a jumper, or like me, you can fabricate your own, in my case I'll uncrimp the C tab and re crimp another small lead into it and over to the H tab.

socalbrandon · Jun 21, 2007

Thanks
I almost gave up and went without

j.r.nice · Jun 21, 2007

malcolmzilla said:
Can't quite figure these out from the instructions:

Rear fuel tank sender:

Does the Painless harness provide a ground? There are 2 wires in the tail section, a red and brown w/ white both marked as fuel senders. Perhaps one is for the aux. tank (which I am not running) and I need to provide my own ground?

.

IIRC red is "power" or full 12v to the float..... and the brown white is the return. (to the gauge). The sender is like a rheostat that only returns a portion of the voltage to the gauge.

as far as the reverse lights, make sure the NSS is adjusted correctly

malcolmzilla · Jun 21, 2007

OK a few more discoveries.

I have no power at the red back up light supply into the backup switch harness, due to a blown fuse, so I replaced it, and pop it went as soon as I turrned the ignition on...

So, the gauges and the backups are on the same circuit, and have not worked, so I pulled all the senders off, and pop still blowing fuses - any ideas?

Also another oddity, is the high beam light red? And, I have no gauge lights on low beam.

Didn't get a chance to hook up the missing wiper wash jumper yet either.

And need more 15amp fuses. %)

malcolmzilla · Jun 22, 2007

Come to think of it I do recall the PO of the '68 sayin the gauges never worked... Thats the one I'm usin', so maybe a short in there somewhere?

j.r.nice · Jun 22, 2007

malcolmzilla said:
OK a few more discoveries.

I have no power at the red back up light supply into the backup switch harness, due to a blown fuse, so I replaced it, and pop it went as soon as I turrned the ignition on...

So, the gauges and the backups are on the same circuit, and have not worked, so I pulled all the senders off, and pop still blowing fuses - any ideas?

Also another oddity, is the high beam light red? And, I have no gauge lights on low beam.

Didn't get a chance to hook up the missing wiper wash jumper yet either.

And need more 15amp fuses. %)

sounds like a short in the gauge pack.

As far as the dash lights, sounds like the dash lights are wired to the "high beam" indicator. In other words the dash lights and indicators need double checked.

jdevon · Jun 22, 2007

the voltage regulator might be bad in the gauge cluster.

malcolmzilla · Jun 22, 2007

Thanks, I'll pull the dash and instrument bezel out tonight, again, and see if that stops blowin the fuses.... %)

The 77 did work when pulled. I took the IVR and guages off of its gauge cluster (metric) and put them in the 68 (imperial and already repainted).

malcolmzilla · Jul 7, 2007

OK a bit more work.

Wiper washer jumper worked, however the switch Painless sent doesnt work! Put an old one in for now. Works!

Discovered that my NSS works, in P and N its got continuity, but the backup light part seems hooped. Will order a new one tomorrow.

Found my short in the instrument cluster, I had added an extra ground wire and had it on the gauge posts, which are all hot as the senders provide varaible resistance to ground (duh), this also solved my lack of dash lights on high beam. %)

Got the fuel sender working, the posts on the sender needed a good cleaning.

So all in all, a good day! ;D

malcolmzilla · Jul 9, 2007

OMG $117 for a new neutral safety switch @ the parts store?

Oh well at least they can find me one...

willtel · Jul 9, 2007

So for the fuel senders you just wired one Painless wire to each sender and made a ground jumper for each tank?

Have you connected this to the fuel tank selector on the dash yet? I think I can make sense of the sender portion but I am confused by the switch and I didn't see it mentioned in the manual.

malcolmzilla · Jul 9, 2007

I am only running the main tank.

For my 77 sender, the center post is hot in from the gauge, the outer is to a body or chassis ground. Clean the posts and ground up well with emery cloth and use dielectric grease. I also re-used some of the push on 90 degree boot connectors outta one of the old harnesses.

An interesting find is that the current to the senders is pulsed, not continuous, I guess thats the IVR?

The selector I would think has 3 prongs you need:

- hot from gauge (pink) will need to cut it
- hot out to main tanks (connect to the pink one in the rear harness section)
- hot out to the aux tank (the brown/white (?) one up in the dash harness).

The switch just controls which sender circuit is closed and thus the fuel gauge reading.

Sound about right? I am in the same boat - wiring takes me a lot of head scratching, test lights and sparks before I figure it out.

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