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77 experts needed

horseman

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
272
my 77 is uncut and has a one inch body lift other wise stock.
It will see very little if any off-road (street truck )
I would like to lift it (2.5) and run some bigger wheels and tires.

So with that in mind how best to start? ?:?
I hope to run 33x10 tires with some type of aftermarket wheels.
There are many types steering systems bcb/stonechruser tro/tru
should I upgrade from my Inverted Y and if I do that it really complicates
wheel selection back spacing becomes a issue on the 17 in wheels.
Where do I start 15x8 15x10 17x9.5 I really don't know which parts
work together.Ive done many searches and now Iam more confused ?:?

Please help put the pieces together ;D Which combo works best?

Thanks for your help
 

77bronko

Full Member
Joined
May 21, 2002
Messages
273
Loc.
Norfolk MA
I had the inverted y on my 77 for years, 3.5" lift, no drop pitman and no track bar drop. It drove straight and no bump steer. Did the conversion to the typical straight tie rod between the knuckles with the drag link, added a dropped pitman and track bar drop and it drove bad (lots of bump steer). I was able to get rid of most of it by rotating the drag link to tie rod joint, but it still does not drive as well as the original config. So I would put the 2.5" lift on it then see how it drives.
 

tsmustangs

Full Member
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
271
Loc.
All Over
I have a 77 uncut with a 1" body lift and Wild Horses 3.5" progressive springs in the front and 11 pack 3.5" lift springs in the rear. I run the stock "Y" steering and have been all over the mountains with it. No problems. But the biggest tires I've found I can run are 31X10.5 on Ultra 50/51's with the standard 3 1/2" backspacing. Hope this helps.

Terry
 

surfer-b

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
2,972
I had the inverted y on my 77 for years, 3.5" lift, no drop pitman and no track bar drop. It drove straight and no bump steer
I agree, leave the stock tie-rod setup, I have had 2 76's , which both were the y system, these broncos drove better than any of the others I have had, they don't seem to wonder on the road as much as the earler models.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
My '77 has the stock "Y", 2.5" lift, and 16" rims with quite a positive offset (set inward). Runs really good. I had planned a complete steering refurb. this winter including ball joints, tie rod conversion and steering shaft replacement. Now I'm wondering if I should just replace the "Y" with the same since it sounds as if there might be some geometry problems in replacing with a "T" type. The reason Ford went to the "Y" was to gain some ground clearance for the tie rod. I guess if you're not going extreme you should leave good enough alone.
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
1,954
My '77 also has the 3.5" lift with stock "y" and I would not change it for your application. I really don't think the 33's will fit though. 31" max if uncut. Ford engineers did a great job with the"y" as long as you don't abuse it. BI
 

clarrance

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
2,674
I have driven alot of Broncos and the 76-77 "Y" set-up is by far the best handling and steering of all the early Broncos. I would not go with the older "T" style unless it is going to be used for a hard core trail rig. You will not get a EB to drive any better on the steet than the factory "Y" set-up.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
I'll still be replacing the old tie rod set-up because I'm trying to tighten the steering up. What's the quality of the "Y" tie rod & drag link assemblys from Tom's & WH?
 

eb66to77

Bronc'Ownly
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,558
Loc.
NOVA
I went from a stock '74 "T" to a Wildhorses 3-way adjust conversion when i went to '76 knuckles and am now all over the freaking place. Even after a drop pitman and adding caster. The problem lies in the way the drag link can cause the tie-rod to rotate without ever moving the steering wheel. That also allows the tires to steer without moving the steering wheel. Even with a castor change that problem will still exist. The only way I could see changing that is to ream the knuckles out so the TRE's are almost flush with the knuckle. Even then you will have metal on metal when you steer. Damned if you do damned if you don't. You could go full cross-over with heims but make sure open ended ball-joints are DOT approved in your state.

73stallion sold me an inverted Y so when I get around to it I am gonna switch and see if it is any better.
 

Colo77Bronco

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
599
Loc.
Colorado Springs
I just pulled an inverted Y from my 77 last month to go with BCBroncos steering. It worked great with the 2.5" lift that was on it. I also have the james duff steering stabilizer with it. There was not any play in it. I went to 4.5" lift and changed the steering for that. Everyone knows the inverted Y is weak but it functions well on the street. I must say that with my BCBroncos set-up dialed in(it is tie-rod over the knuckle), trac bar riser on the axle instead of trac bar drop bracket, and the stock pitman arm, it handles as well as ever without even having a steering stabilizer. I would do it again on any bronco with the exact set-up I have. I would have a very hard time spending any money on a weak inverted Y system.
 

eb66to77

Bronc'Ownly
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,558
Loc.
NOVA
the left inner and outer are easy swaps and cost around 100 bucks to do together. The drag link is the pricey one at over 200 bucks. There are no adjustments in the draglink and the TRE's are integral to it. I would take a long hard look at the drag link before deciding to replace it. I am sure there are a lot of guys with good inverted Y setups on here that took them off for a crossover setup. i would put something in the wanted section to see.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
For 33 x10 tires go with 15x8 wheels

You can also use 7" wide wheels with those ten inch wide tires which might make it easier to fit under the uncut rear.
You might be able to find an 8" wide wheel with enough positive offset, but with 7" it might just be easier to find one that tucks in tighter.

Paul
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
After looking at the photos of the different types of tie roe/drag link assemblies in the cataloges, It looks to me like the "Y" would be constantly changing the toe in as it articulated up and down with the suspension. Am I wrong with this analysis?
 

eb66to77

Bronc'Ownly
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,558
Loc.
NOVA
you are right. It does change the toe through the cycle of the suspension.
 
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