• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Putting Our '76 Back Together - Need a Little Help

BandG_Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
108
Loc.
Inman, KS
Frame is powder coated - Eng/Tranny/Trans Case/FR and RR end all gone through and back in. As we're putting the thing together a few questions have come up:

1. Put a new thermostat into a new housing on a new aluminum intake - the thermostat seems to fit loosely in the housing. Is this normal?

2. Going back with new stainless brake lines throughout and picked up a new fuel line from BC Broncos - do the brake lines and fuel lines run on top of the crossmember? Does anyone have any pictures of routing?

3. This Bronco sat for a long time - Do you recommend I replace the proportioning valve? If so, where can I get one cheap?

4. Plugs that were in the 302 were Champion RF14YC. Chilton says to use ARF 42 (I'm assuming that's Motorcraft). The guy at the part's house gave me Motorcraft SP-420 (BSF42C). Will these plugs work? .044 Gap?

My son and I are working on this together and we spend a lot if time on this site and we appreciate the help.

Bill and Grant Garst (BandG Bronco)

Thought of another one:

5. The power steering "cooler" plumbed into my power steering hoses - is that necessary?
 
Last edited:

widowmaker77

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
353
there should be a very shallow recessed area in the water neck for the thermostat to sit in. what crossmember are you talking about? I dont see why those plugs wouldnt work as long as they screw in the heads and are long enough. The p.s. cooler is not necessary but does seem to help if your running big tires mine has 35's without the cooler and i have no problems. The proportiong should be okay but how long is a long time?
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
for the most part the brake and fuel lines run down the side of the frame inside not on the out side but running them on top could be a good option probably more protected there.

T stats dont lock into the housing anymore they are all loose I think that part of the problem with t sat failures nowadays.

has the prop valve been sealed or left open and does it have dirt in it? Cheap is hard to come by but you might be able to get one off a 78 up f150 or bronco at a junk yard for cheap otherwise they are expensive.

Ditto on the power steering cooler. It doesnt hurt either way but I would run it just to keep things a little cooler and for the small amount of added capacity.
 

eb66to77

Bronc'Ownly
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,558
Loc.
NOVA
If you don't like the loose t-stat you could eliminate the paper gasket and go with high heat silicone or the silicone substitute. I can't remember the name of it right now. Maybe Naz can help me out.

No pics of the brake/fuel line routing but I went over the x-member on mine when I went stainless and efi plumming.

For the stock prop valve, pull the large threaded bolt off the end and see if there is any crap in it. If so clean it out and go from there. Be careful as there is a spring and plunger in thatt cavity. Once you get it unthread it will fir across the room if you aren't careful. You can also unscrew the imbalance sensor at the top for cleaning. If you wanted to you could replace that wole thing by tying the front brake reservoir directly to the front brake line and then adding an adjustable prop valve in the rear line as close to the master cylinder as you can get it. The front discs don't need to be regulated as they will receive full brake pressure.

Can't remember what I put in my '74 and I can't remember when leaded fuel was eliminated but those plugs will work with whatever is going on today. .044 gap is correct for most plugs unless you get into the plugs with the crazy "new technology" like splitting the electrode or something along those lines.

I would leave the cooler hooked up. The engine bay gets hot on these things so it needs all the help it can get.
 
OP
OP
BandG_Bronco

BandG_Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
108
Loc.
Inman, KS
Just got back from the shop (0230) - cleaning and painting parts on the Bronco. I figured out how to run my fuel/brake lines.

I think to be on the safe side, I'm going to replace the prop valve (it's only money).

Plugs, cooler and T-stat will stay as they are - Thanks all for replying.

Is there anyone out there would can post some pics of our project for me?
 
Top