AOD Install w/ Tom's AOD Crossmember

I tried searching and reading, but I cannot figure out a way to search "AOD" by itself. I think there must be a minimum letter criteria for the search to work. So, I have a few quick questions.

What type of ATF does the AOD use? Same Type F that the C4 used?

I have a Tom's modified AOD crossmember and their urethane bushing kit for the tranny/t-case mount. The urethane bushings that Tom's supplies are too large a diameter to work correctly with the Advance Adapters adapter. With the bushings installed in the crossmember, they hit the bottom of the AA adapter housing before the bushing comes in full contact with the adapter housing. I could probably clearance the bushings, but I figured I'd see if I possibly have the wrong ones from Tom's.

They also supply 4 large dia. washers with the bushing kit. I know 2 go on the bottom, where do the other two go?
Is it possible and/or advised to run the snubber bushing on the crossmember with the AOD setup? I know when I removed the t-case from the C4(when it was still mounted in the EB) I had in there, I had to destroy the snubber bushing to get to the 2 bottom t-case/adapter bolts. It wasn't hard to destroy since it was 30 years old.

Last one in regards to the Tom's urethane mount bushings and crossmember. The AA adapter housing is tapped/threaded for 7/16" bolts where it attaches to the crossmember, so the factory 1/2" bolts cannot be used with the nut to secure it. The urethane bushing sleeve is larger diameter( bigger than 1/2") so the 7/16" bolt has a lot of slop. Am I missing the correct sleeve?

I was really hoping that popping for the Tom's crossmember kit would address all these issues and save me the time of modifying my crossmember, putting it all together and running around to get the correct hardware. The modification part is handled, but everything else appears to be loose ends.

ON ours, I believe the AA kit came with the correct bushing for the smaller bolts.
The urethane bushings I had to shave down with grinder on one side to get them to clear which worked great.
Maybe the 2 washers are just extra in case you lose 2, I am not sure cant remember if my kits had to many.
Hope that helps. I used the toms cross member too.

Thanks. I looked in the AA catalog I have and there is a pic there that shows upper bushings that are narrower at the top vs. the std. square top...that's what made me think perhaps there is another version out there that works better.

Fluid type should be marked on the dipstick type F is not it. Probably one of the mercrons'
While I'm not sure I would say that the bushing kit you got was desgined for the stock bronco and not a AOD swap. I would just modify the bushings where needed. Also AA say they include sleeves to fit the stock bushings. the other 2 washers are probably just extras I've gotten AA kits before that had extras.
You should be able to run the snubber might need to shim it a bit to actually make contact with the Tcase or it may need to be shaved down to fit. it all depends on how the adapter compares to stock.

You have to modify the urathane bushings to fit the AA housing, and I only used washers on the cross member side. Be careful not to over tighten the mount bolts the aluminum AA uses is junk! I'm now up to 9/16"s bolts with helicoil inserts...

As far as the snubber goes, I was not able to use mine, but I'm not sure that it actually does anything anyway?

The AOD uses Mercon ATF, I just put 14 quarts of Mercon V in mine, but I'm running a large cooler so I'm not sure the actual capacity...

Good luck

The dry fill for the AOD in my Chiltons is 12.5 qts that is with the in-radiator cooler only, so add more if you are running a secondary cooler. I would start with the 12.5 quarts then run it and add slowly till you get it to the fill level on the dipstick. I had the same issue with the bushings, just clearanced them to make them work.

I want to follow this as I will be installing an AOD next year, and was hoping for more of a "bolt in" fit with all the specail AOD produced parts.

mp said:

I want to follow this as I will be installing an AOD next year, and was hoping for more of a "bolt in" fit with all the specail AOD produced parts.

Click to expand...

Everything bolted right up with a little tweaking but the hardest part was getting the shifter bolted up. Which wasn't that bad at all. I used a Lokar shifter and it sure shifts smooth.

Any one want to answer this question on how to search for this because As much as I search I can't get the search to work most of the times..

Update to this thread....I modified my existing crossmember and decided to not use the Tom's crossmember because of the frame brackets that come with the kit. The Tom's frame brackets are not as tall as the factory frame brackets.
What that does is tilt the engine back and lower the trans/transfer case. I can see that being a good thing as it gives more clearance between the trans, the top of the transfer case and the body. However, since I'm running a 351w and the driver's side head is already very close to the firewall, dropping the crossmember exacerbates the firewall/cylinder head issue. I don't have any clearance issues with the trans or transfer case and the body....but I installed new body bushings before doing this install to avoid clearance problems.

One thing I'll note that is not addressed in the AA instructions for crossmember modification, or taken care of with the Tom's crossmember is additional clerancing on the driver's side front flange of the crossmember. See attached pic. Without taking that flange off the crossmember mine would not let the trans adapter drop all the way down onto the crossmember. I suspect all AA AOD adapters are like this......there is a lot of meat on that adapter at the bottom and it will hit the crossmember flange. I looked at another used AOD adapter that I have and it is all chowdered up in that location....probably from the previous owner not taking the flange off. I could hear that interference even before I drove it...metal on metal squeaks drive me nuts. I'm not sure why Tom's doesn't take care of that with the mod, but it seems like everyone would need that taken off based on what I'm seeing.

Back to the 4 big washers question.....I looked at my old rubber bushings and noticed that the factory ones had a metal "washer"(more like a piece of sheet metal cut round) on both the top and bottom. So, I'm assuming the 4 washers that come with the bushings are for top and bottom. The top ones will need to be trimmed the same way the bushings are for adapter clearance. Did you run the larger washer top side...or do you have the adapter housing sitting right on the urethane upper bushing?

I know they'll be snug...but I'm hearing another metal on metal squeak developing over time at that spot with the upper washers in place.

So, use the upper washers...yes or no?

Since I'm using the stock frame brackets in stock location, I was going to bolt the crossmember to the brackets like this....

That pic is from CB.com member "toque" in 2004. Any long term issues with not having the rear flange of the crossmember supported or not having the crossmember centered over the frame brackets?

you could always weld extension plates or angle iron on the back of the frame mounts.