Front axle seals

kaw550 · May 21, 2011

I need to replace my front axle U Joints.

Are the front seals prone to leaking after the axles are reinstalled?
Does the diff after to be pulled to get them in?

What started out as front coils has gotten out of control. I need to know where to draw the line.

Zillacon · May 21, 2011

The diff does need to be pulled to replace them. If they have a ton of miles or original I would do them now while you have all the other stuff off the front end. If they dont just make everything is clean and put some grease on the machined part of your shaft where the seal rides to keep it from burning up after install.

kaw550 · May 22, 2011

What is involved with removing the front diff?
I really want to have this wrapped up for friday.

Zillacon · May 22, 2011

kaw550 said:
What is involved with removing the front diff?
I really want to have this wrapped up for friday.

Once you have the axles out remove the front cover, loosen the main bearing caps but leave a few threads in and pry out the center section or use a wrag and put it in-between the pinion gear and ring gear and rotate it out. I leave the main bearing caps a few threads in so when it pops out it wont fall on the floor and get damaged or but up your face/feet etc. Not that big of a job at all. The seals can be a pain as you dont have much room to work with but I would buy an extra seal as more than likely you will damage at least one of them trying to install them.

kaw550 · May 22, 2011

Do I need to do anything with the pinion ans yoke or does that stay in?

Anyone have a napa part number? The seal that camw up online didnt look right.
I saw it as low as $7 in a vendor catalog but dont want to wait for it. They are $22 at autozone.

jperry1290 · May 22, 2011

good time to go disc as well. seals are cheap but its very labor intensive

Viperwolf1 · May 23, 2011

kaw550 said:
Do I need to do anything with the pinion ans yoke or does that stay in?

Anyone have a napa part number? The seal that camw up online didnt look right.
I saw it as low as $7 in a vendor catalog but dont want to wait for it. They are $22 at autozone.

Pinion and yoke stays put.

Part # is National 5131. Most parts stores show the wrong pic. Here is a right pic.

Old Bronco Guy · May 23, 2011

Should be noted, a threaded installation tool provides a straight correct install.

kaw550 · May 25, 2011

So the cover is off, axles out and the bearing caps have been removed.

I cant get the center section of the diff to pop out. Am I missing something?
I tried to use a rag and a pipe wrench on the driveeshaft but it just chewed up the rag and spit it out.

stlo · May 25, 2011

they can change over time on how straight they are....they make a tool that will sepr. the housing enough to get it out....ive taken front ends apart just easy as hell but let them set and had to use a spreader to put the carrier back in

kaw550 · May 26, 2011

I was only taking it to replace the seals. Is it worth the effort?
I am pretty sure the local tool stores do not rent the spreader.

Viperwolf1 · May 26, 2011

Need more rag in there. You may want to loosely attach the caps so it doesn't fall when it does pop out.

kaw550 · May 31, 2011

Metal flange required?

Okay, I got the center section out and pried out a seal.

In the process I bent a metal flange that I thought was part of the seal.
The new seal has a flange but it but it is not the same.

Do I need the metal flange or is the new seal an updated design? I believe it is the same seal that Viperwolf posted in the picture.

kaw550 · May 31, 2011

I added another picture. The seal on the right is the new one.

Old Bronco Guy · May 31, 2011

The flange is there to assist the axle while going through seal so as to reduce the possibility of seal damage

bblue · May 31, 2011

as long as the i.d. is a fit for the axle and the o.d. is the same as the tube its all good. put a bit of grease on the seal after install

Viperwolf1 · May 31, 2011

As I recall the new seal has a funnel shape on the outboard side to guide the axle. So I would say the new seal is all you need. See if it fits.

75Denver · Jun 1, 2011

I just did this job and ran into the same situation. I tried sizing up the old metal flange in the axle housing and using the new seal but it does not allow a proper seal. My guess was the new seal is better than the old and since all the measurements were correct I scraped the old flange. Also, someone posted now's the time for disc brakes. VERY TRUE!! Especially if you've gone this far and might have to replace your drum brakes (if you have them). I calculated the cost difference and it made much more sense to spend the extra $100 bucks for discs. Unfortunately, that was after I installed all brand new drum parts

. If you're not doing the brakes, at least do your bearings/seals and ball joints while you're that far into it all! Good luck.

kaw550 · Jun 1, 2011

OK. Thanks.
I was worried it was one of the parts you need but can't buy anymore.
With any luck I will get the new seals in tonight.

Already have disks up front. I am only changing the seals because I had to replace the u joints. I am only changing the U joints because I am installing ball joint shims. etc. etc...

RnrdTheFox · Jun 1, 2011

If you don't have the proper tool to press the seals in, you will be very lucky to do it correctly with just a hammer, punch, and patience. I just did this recently and didn't have the recommended tool. I ended up going to Lowes buying a 5' piece of all-thread, some large washers, and nuts. I ended up with a "custom tool" that allowed me to use the ends of the axel for leverage to press the seals in without damage. The parts cost me ~ $18.

Front axle seals

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