Recent content by chuckji

People more experienced than me will chime in, but there is some basic information that can be provided to start out. 1. Tire size and air pressure 2. Alignment numbers 3. A photo from head on of the front end - we’ll want to see the drag link and track bar geometry.

Looks normal. Here’s a shot of a Borgeson box in my stash.

What disc brake calipers are you using?

^^^ That, and double check the calipers aren’t on backwards (left on right and vice versa). are The bleed ports at the top?

By the way, you did run the wizard on the Sniper…? If you haven’t loaded a tune file the engine will not start because the fuel pump will not turn on without a tune file.

Measure the voltage at that orange wire when the key is in the START position. If it’s really Accessory power then there will be no voltage during engine start (cranking). The Sniper needs Ignition power (voltage with the key in the ON and START positions).

Are you still using the resistor wire to the coil? With that coil you need to bypass any resistor or resistor wire to the coil.

Isn’t there a wire from the original regulator that goes to the ignition coil via the ignition key switch? Just a thought - maybe someone with more knowledge in this area could advise.

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/how-to-upload-photos-become-a-contributor.34373/

Looks like the one I use as well.

I've used these guys to do some chrome plating on some of my Bronco parts. I'm actually considering sending my bumpers there for repairs and re-chrome as well. https://www.customchromeplating.com/

A local custom auto upholstery shop.

^^ That

Contact the guy's a EFI System Pro. They will review your data logs and guide you through troubleshooting and config file corrections. Assuming initial set up is correct, likely causes of what you described could be: IAC is not adjusted correctly, there is an exhaust leak, secondary butterflies...