Got the rear suspension done on my Bronco, installing a 3.5 inch lift. Did the rear first as the front is going to be a bit more challenging with all I have planned. It seems my rear driveshaft is going to be to short, I can't get the u-joint to seat in the yoke on the rear differential. I know I need to take some measurements before ordering a new driveshaft and I know it need to be on the ground and taking the measurements at ride height. But would it be best to wait until I get the front suspension finished also or will that affect the measurement that much with the rear a bit higher than the front? Also , looking for info on the best place to get a new driveshaft. I've already looked at Tom Wood's website but did not know of any others.
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
Rear Driveshaft
- Thread starter broncosam
- Start date
Timmy390
Bronco Guru
Mr. Woods sells good stuff.........That said, if your on a budget it's much cheaper to get your existing shaft modified. I did this with my trans upgrade. Local shop did mine.
Tim
I went with Tom Woods also.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,487
Do NOT order a new shaft until you have it at ride height (compress the springs if needed) AND you're sure that the rear pinion angle is correct.
The pinion angle is the biggest contributor to un-needed new rear shafts being ordered in my opinion.
Do you have spring shims installed, or not? Not all need them, but at 3.5" definitely most need them. Maybe more than 90% most that is.
Did you leave the spring and shackle bolts loose until you put it back on the ground?
Is the vehicle at full weight at least?
If so then you can use ratchet straps, or weight, or whatever method to get your rear axle-to-frame measurement down to around 10" or so (within a half inch of 9.5" either way) and check your pinion angle.
You should have a rear shaft that uses a double-cardan joint at the transfer case. If not, it's been changed unless it's a very early model Bronco. As long as it still has the double-cardan shaft, your rear pinion angle should point slightly upward, almost directly into the driveshaft. About 1 to 2 degrees down from the centerline of the shaft is good.
If you're near there, then go ahead and order a new shaft. If not, you will need shims to correct the angle.
Usually the 6° that most of us sell will likely cure the angle issue. If yours needs more or less, then you'll have to find the appropriate angle shim and go from there.
Paul
The pinion angle is the biggest contributor to un-needed new rear shafts being ordered in my opinion.
Do you have spring shims installed, or not? Not all need them, but at 3.5" definitely most need them. Maybe more than 90% most that is.
Did you leave the spring and shackle bolts loose until you put it back on the ground?
Is the vehicle at full weight at least?
If so then you can use ratchet straps, or weight, or whatever method to get your rear axle-to-frame measurement down to around 10" or so (within a half inch of 9.5" either way) and check your pinion angle.
You should have a rear shaft that uses a double-cardan joint at the transfer case. If not, it's been changed unless it's a very early model Bronco. As long as it still has the double-cardan shaft, your rear pinion angle should point slightly upward, almost directly into the driveshaft. About 1 to 2 degrees down from the centerline of the shaft is good.
If you're near there, then go ahead and order a new shaft. If not, you will need shims to correct the angle.
Usually the 6° that most of us sell will likely cure the angle issue. If yours needs more or less, then you'll have to find the appropriate angle shim and go from there.
Paul
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,747
Same here.. although I did Duff on one end, Tom Woods on the other..
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,747
Got to have that down time too brother...
Yes, especially at my age. When I was a whole lot younger I could work on vehicles all day long for several days and didn't think nothing of it. Now I go out there and work for 3-5 hours and I'm done for a couple of days. Tomorrow my hands, elbows and shoulders will be screaming. All those years on the assembly line took a toll on me. But nothing like taking a break ,getting a good shower and then a couple of cold ones to ease everything.
Did the same to my truck Sunday evening with the 3.5in WH lift and found I have the same problem. Drive shaft too short. I measured from mounting point to mounting point like Tom Woods recommended and came up with 35.5 in. I'm guessing I need to add 1.5 in but will be calling Woods tomorrow to get a professional opinion. My buddy has over 100k miles with no problems on his Tom Woods rear shaft and just recently replaced the rear u-joint. I will be ordering one tomorrow myself. What shocks are you planning to use? I have Rancho 9000s now but will be too short for this lift.
I've looked at a lot of shock options from different manufacturer's and right now I'm planning on Bilstein shocks, one at each corner. As for the driveshaft, years ago when I had my 77 F150 4X4 I had a couple of driveshafts built by Republic Diesel here in the Louisville,KY area. I had good friends that worked there, Republic was/is a Spicer dealer, and they were able to help me out a bit on cost. I still have friends that work there and I called one of them yesterday to see if they still had a driveshaft shop. They still do, and turns out I know the guy that runs it as well, so when I get everything measured up I'm going to go see them.
I got my Tom Woods through WH and they have good measurement instructions.
Ordered one this morning and will be shipped out tomorrow.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,487
Great, thanks!
It’s interesting to see multiple Broncos that need longer driveshafts. By far most of us that have 2 to 4 inch lifts do not need them.
Just over that though, at 4 1/2 inches and above, the percentage goes way way up.
It’s interesting to see multiple Broncos that need longer driveshafts. By far most of us that have 2 to 4 inch lifts do not need them.
Just over that though, at 4 1/2 inches and above, the percentage goes way way up.
Over the years I had several lifted vehicles, this Bronco I have now makes six. Most were lifted F150's and one full size Bronco. Two of the F150 trucks and the full size Bronco had 4 inch lifts, the other two F150 trucks had 6 inch lifts added. But this 74 Bronco I have now is the first time I've ever run into driveshaft fitment issues. I guess I was real lucky with the others.
