Pertronix Ford Performance Dual Point Distributor

[f2502011]

I have a dual point non vacuum advance distributor in my 302.

Currently has points, but I would like to go to Pertronix electronic ignition.

I think I need part 1281 for conversion or maybe 1284, but not sure. Could someone confirm?

I read over install information, and should this be the way to go for me, it suggests leaving the factory ballast resistance whether wire or separate/auxiliary resistor in place.

I did an internet search and watched some videos and tutorials on an install, but I'm still not completely sure if I need to and if so how to bypass the pink resistance wire from the ignition to properly install.

Would appreciate any tips, advice, suggestions

 

[DirtDonk]

Back to the top.
I'm assuming for the moment that you're talking about a Mallory brand distributor? Back in the day there might have been others, but Mallory was the main player in the dual-point market.
Or is it a Ford unit from some other application? If Ford, are you sure it's dual point? Without vacuum advance it may very well be of course, but I had to ask.

For starters though, there is no way that a #1281 is for your distributor. All Pertronix Ignitors are for VERY SPECIFIC distributors and do not fit others. The 1281 is for a stock vacuum advance single point distributor only.
The #1284 on the other hand is in fact for a Ford dual-point non-vacuum distributor. So if that's what you have, and the year range fits, then that's the one to go with.

Do we know what years and models had the dual-point distributor available? Is there any chance there was more than one model? If so, or if any doubt, call Pertronix and ask their tech department. They're actually very nice to deal with on the phone.
Not sure who might have been there long enough to know more about an old factory dual-point setup, but maybe there's an old-timer that can tell right off the top of their head what works.

And just for us.... Got pics?
Love to see this thing!

Paul

 

[f2502011]

It’s an Autolite.

6 new items by Homeowner A

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[DirtDonk]

Very cool! I’m guessing those weren’t very common even back in the day. Much less found in a bronco!

Too bad it doesn’t have a vacuum advance, but I know it was a race performance oriented item and not much for fuel economy.
One less thing to go wrong and high on the bragging rights and cool stuff scales.

Seems like the 1284 is your go to then. Be very interested to hear how you like the way it runs after and how you like the fact that you don’t have to adjust or replace points anymore.

Does it use standard Ford points? Or are they unique to that distributor?

Thanks

 

[f2502011]

What’s the best way bypass the pink resistance wire and keep a clean look?

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, you could use the old resistor wire to trigger a relay. Some have done that and it's pretty clean, but it does leave another component under the hood.

I forget what year yours is, but some years had an actual separate push-on/bullet style connector a few inches away from the ignition switch. This was for easy replacement of the resistor wire when it failed. but it also lends itself really well to disconnecting it entirely and substituting a regular wire.
If there is a matching connector up near the firewall you've got your full bypass. I've never searched though, so don't know if that second one exists. I think it must though, so follow the wire along it's path and see if you have it.
With that two-connector setup you simply replace it with normal wire and you don't even have to worry about how it transitions to the red 3-wire connector behind the engine.

If yours is the type that has the resistor wire run right into the back of the ignition switch, you can still replace it. It's just more fiddly work.

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

I think you will have to get your answer straight from Pertronix. back in the day we used to run Accell dual point small block ford distributors their components seemed to be much higher quality back then. I am sure I still have one burried in the back of my garage with my other old small block stuff.

 

[DirtDonk]

I think I still have my Mallory in a box somewhere too. Hardly used it since I did not like losing the vacuum advance and fiddling with the points, while not really noticing any improvement in the way the engine ran. Not seeing high-rpm much, which is where I think a dual-point design really shines. So not much benefit for me if that was the case.
I was just resisting changing to electronic triggers for the longest time. I even went first with a Compu-Spark (might have been an early Jacobs design?) and then Jacobs CD ignition back in the seventies so that the points would trigger the box, but I'd get some of the benefit of a stronger spark.
Worked really good too, but I eventually got tired of tweaking/adjusting/cleaning/replacing points in a daily driver so finally bit the bullet and went Dura Spark distributor with the later Jacobs ignition.
All I could say after that was wow!

Paul

 

[f2502011]

Well, you could use the old resistor wire to trigger a relay. Some have done that and it's pretty clean, but it does leave another component under the hood.

I forget what year yours is, but some years had an actual separate push-on/bullet style connector a few inches away from the ignition switch. This was for easy replacement of the resistor wire when it failed. but it also lends itself really well to disconnecting it entirely and substituting a regular wire.
If there is a matching connector up near the firewall you've got your full bypass. I've never searched though, so don't know if that second one exists. I think it must though, so follow the wire along it's path and see if you have it.
With that two-connector setup you simply replace it with normal wire and you don't even have to worry about how it transitions to the red 3-wire connector behind the engine.

If yours is the type that has the resistor wire run right into the back of the ignition switch, you can still replace it. It's just more fiddly work.

Paul

1972

 

[DirtDonk]

It's something that after all these years you'd have thought we'd have enough of a database to say which years got the plug and which years did not. But let us know if you find a push-on connector an inch or three from your switch with the Red w/green wire running into Pink/PukeBrown wire and then into the heat-resistant jacketing.

paul

 

[Broncobowsher]

You might be better off selling that distributor to a vintage mustang/cobra owner and buying something more common, and pocket a little money while at it as well.

I have a couple factory ford mallory distributors, from boat engines. Non-vaccum advance, but only single point. I understand some were dual point. Was talking to Pertronix a number of years ago at SEMA, they said get some clean pictures inside the distributor and send them in. From that they could figure out what it would need.

In the end I kept the single point, but put a TFI module and E-core coil on it. That runs good.

 

[f2502011]

You might be better off selling that distributor to a vintage mustang/cobra owner and buying something more common, and pocket a little money while at it as well.

I have a couple factory ford mallory distributors, from boat engines. Non-vaccum advance, but only single point. I understand some were dual point. Was talking to Pertronix a number of years ago at SEMA, they said get some clean pictures inside the distributor and send them in. From that they could figure out what it would need.

In the end I kept the single point, but put a TFI module and E-core coil on it. That runs good.

That's kinda what I was thinking. I'm not concerned about fuel economy with this particular vehicle. It's not a daily driver or driven very much at all, and it's quite convenient to not have to deal with the vacuum advance factor.

Drivability is a non-issue currently and it does fine in its current state. I would like to convert to electronic ignition for smoothness, reliability and lack of maintenance.

In the past I've noticed noticeably smoother idle once converted from points. That's what I'm hoping to accomplish here. Lack of maintenance, smoothness and reliability.

I would ultimately like to get a stock correct part # date code correct vacuum advance distributor, but haven't been able to find out what part number I need to search for.

Posted a thread on here asking for part numbers for correct 1972 carb, intake and distributor but no response.

If anyone has the parts I need or knows the part numbers I need to look for please let me know.

 

[DirtDonk]

One of our other members here has a lot of original part numbers for the full-size later model trucks. Late 70s in other words. Maybe he’s got something. I’ll message him and see if he’s got anything.
I saw your carb question but I didn’t have anything to add. I know those numbers are out there, but not sure what to look for when searching.

 

[1970 Palmer]

The Ford factory high performance dual point (no vacuum advance) original distributors used a special high performance point set. Back in the day (1960's-70's) I drove a 289 271 horse K Code 1964 Fairllane as my daily driver. Being a basically cheap guy I always used the cheaper Ford stock replacement single point sets, and just removed the heavy tension springs and transferred them to the new point sets. The heavy spring tension wore the rubbing blocks down quickly, changing (closing up) the dwell angle. Fortunately I had access to a old Sun Distributor machine to set the distributor advance curve and dwell.

Running a stock small block distributor, with both the mechanical centrifugal advance and the high vacuum advance makes a good combination on the way we drive our Broncos today. Just make sure you have both advance curves set correctly, and then set the initial timing to at least 10 degrees BTDC. Converting away from the stock points is a no brainer change. Many options are available.

Unless your dealing with a State DMV requiring a stock emission part for licensing, or maybe building a museum vehicle, I don't see why you would want to run a stock type distributor with the dual "advance and retard" diaphram distributors. After about 1970 the States and the Feds started retarding the cams and distributor timing curves to meet their higher emission standards. This is when fuel mileage fell, performance dropped, driveability problems increased. Todays high corn watered down gas only makes these problems greater.

 

[f2502011]

The Ford factory high performance dual point (no vacuum advance) original distributors used a special high performance point set. Back in the day (1960's-70's) I drove a 289 271 horse K Code 1964 Fairllane as my daily driver. Being a basically cheap guy I always used the cheaper Ford stock replacement single point sets, and just removed the heavy tension springs and transferred them to the new point sets. The heavy spring tension wore the rubbing blocks down quickly, changing (closing up) the dwell angle. Fortunately I had access to a old Sun Distributor machine to set the distributor advance curve and dwell.

Running a stock small block distributor, with both the mechanical centrifugal advance and the high vacuum advance makes a good combination on the way we drive our Broncos today. Just make sure you have both advance curves set correctly, and then set the initial timing to at least 10 degrees BTDC. Converting away from the stock points is a no brainer change. Many options are available.

Unless your dealing with a State DMV requiring a stock emission part for licensing, or maybe building a museum vehicle, I don't see why you would want to run a stock type distributor with the dual "advance and retard" diaphram distributors. After about 1970 the States and the Feds started retarding the cams and distributor timing curves to meet their higher emission standards. This is when fuel mileage fell, performance dropped, driveability problems increased. Todays high corn watered down gas only makes these problems greater.

Should I keep and try to work with/convert the Dual Point non-vacuum distributor to pertronix and run with that or look for a stock vacuum distributor then convert that?

 

[1970 Palmer]

Should I keep and try to work with/convert the Dual Point non-vacuum distributor to pertronix and run with that or look for a stock vacuum distributor then convert that?

I guess the answer to your question is Yes, and No. Lets explore why it could be either. The original Ford dual point distributors were designed to run at high RPM's as on the rev limiter. They used very stiff flat springs to hold the point rubbing blocks against the distributor breaker cam lobs. to gain the operation during high RPM's. The rubbing block wore out quickly and required constant maintenance. The opening and closing on the two sets of points were timed offset to increase the number of degrees they stayed open. We used cigarette wraper cellophane between the points so we could adjust one at a time. This was the old school way to increase the ignition output. This style of distributor was best used in high RPM engine applications like drag racing, circle track, and V-Drive ski boats.

On the mechanical advance dual point distributors you did not have any additional advance for light/partial throttle. Most of the racing engines had long duration cams and very little manifold vacuum to operate a vacuum advance. You will increase your fuel mileage with a vacuum advance. It's really a win/win.

I think today, taking into consideration how we drive our vehicles, very little time is actually spent at max RPM, and most of the time we are at partial throttle and appreciate the part throttle response.

Just find a single diaphragm stock Ford distributor, add a points conversion kit, you can set the total degrees of vacuum advance grinding the bakelite stop, or also using washers for shims to increase the inches of vacuum it takes to come in. It's completely adjustable. The same with the mechanical advance, the springs are adjustable for RPM, the distributor cam can be reversed to increase/decrease the total degrees of mechanical advance. A properly tuned, stock single diaphragm original distributor with a points conversion kit will work much better, and with much less maintenance than any original Ford dual point did in the 1960's

 

[f2502011]

I guess the answer to your question is Yes, and No. Lets explore why it could be either. The original Ford dual point distributors were designed to run at high RPM's as on the rev limiter. They used very stiff flat springs to hold the point rubbing blocks against the distributor breaker cam lobs. to gain the operation during high RPM's. The rubbing block wore out quickly and required constant maintenance. The opening and closing on the two sets of points were timed offset to increase the number of degrees they stayed open. We used cigarette wraper cellophane between the points so we could adjust one at a time. This was the old school way to increase the ignition output. This style of distributor was best used in high RPM engine applications like drag racing, circle track, and V-Drive ski boats.

On the mechanical advance dual point distributors you did not have any additional advance for light/partial throttle. Most of the racing engines had long duration cams and very little manifold vacuum to operate a vacuum advance. You will increase your fuel mileage with a vacuum advance. It's really a win/win.

I think today, taking into consideration how we drive our vehicles, very little time is actually spent at max RPM, and most of the time we are at partial throttle and appreciate the part throttle response.

Just find a single diaphragm stock Ford distributor, add a points conversion kit, you can set the total degrees of vacuum advance grinding the bakelite stop, or also using washers for shims to increase the inches of vacuum it takes to come in. It's completely adjustable. The same with the mechanical advance, the springs are adjustable for RPM, the distributor cam can be reversed to increase/decrease the total degrees of mechanical advance. A properly tuned, stock single diaphragm original distributor with a points conversion kit will work much better, and with much less maintenance than any original Ford dual point did in the 1960's

Pertronix in the dual point would eliminate the constant maintenance issue. Been looking but haven’t been able to find a correct stock single diaphragm one. Not sure exactly the best place to look and not exactly sure what part number to look for.

 

[sprdv1]

I have a dual point non vacuum advance distributor in my 302.

Currently has points, but I would like to go to Pertronix electronic ignition.

I think I need part 1281 for conversion or maybe 1284, but not sure. Could someone confirm?

I read over install information, and should this be the way to go for me, it suggests leaving the factory ballast resistance whether wire or separate/auxiliary resistor in place.

I did an internet search and watched some videos and tutorials on an install, but I'm still not completely sure if I need to and if so how to bypass the pink resistance wire from the ignition to properly install.

Would appreciate any tips, advice, suggestions

internet can only help so much right

 

[sprdv1]

One of our other members here has a lot of original part numbers for the full-size later model trucks. Late 70s in other words. Maybe he’s got something. I’ll message him and see if he’s got anything.
I saw your carb question but I didn’t have anything to add. I know those numbers are out there, but not sure what to look for when searching.

members on here rock for sure and always willing to help

 

[sprdv1]

Just find a single diaphragm stock Ford distributor, add a points conversion kit, you can set the total degrees of vacuum advance grinding the bakelite stop, or also using washers for shims to increase the inches of vacuum it takes to come in. It's completely adjustable. The same with the mechanical advance, the springs are adjustable for RPM, the distributor cam can be reversed to increase/decrease the total degrees of mechanical advance. A properly tuned, stock single diaphragm original distributor with a points conversion kit will work much better, and with much less maintenance than any original Ford dual point did in the 1960's

worth a go for sure