Definitely should not have to live with it.
I know the auto parts stores can test alternators for output, but I wonder if they test them for pulsing?
Some can even test regulators, but I’ve never had that done.
And regulators are fairly inexpensive, even though they’re not very good quality, so it might be worth it just to toss a new one on there again, like you suggested originally.
But there is a test you can do. It’s called “Full Fielding“ and is typically done to test an alternator’s total output. But it also literally bypasses the regulator and might just be able to narrow down the issue.
I wonder if we can even modify the test somewhat. I’ll talk about that in a minute.
Full fielding as where are you jumper the F position to the A or S positions on the regulator connector. This essentially puts 12 V to the field circuit and the alternator so it puts out its maximum current.
If the pulsing goes away then you should be able to tell that it’s the regulator.
In theory…
Probably best done at night so you can see if there are still any small pulses.
The modified version of that is something I don’t know if we’ve ever talked about here.
Where you could take a 9 V battery and connect it to the F terminal of the connector so that instead of its maximum output it outputs a lesser amount.
That might be a more accurate test if it works.
Anyone see any reason a little 9 V radio battery wouldn’t do the job?
This is all done with the regulator wiring disconnected from the regulator by the way.