I'm not going for a show car look. This will be a driver but the boooooger welds are everywhere.
I cut off more sheet metal today than I was going too since it will be easier to put new panels in than clean the previous owners welds up. I could leave it if I sprayed enough Linex, Dynomat, then carpet. It's not much more work and it'll drive me nuts so.
Just talking out loud here-
Going to move the throttle over an inch or so and I usually move the brake pedal over 4-6" to the DS depending on the builds needs. I want valve cover clearance and a clean look. Since I'm moving the firewall (the angled part under the pedals) forward appr 2" I need to change the angles and pivot points.
I will probably use 3/4" x 3" rect tube for body support cross pcs (under the floor & tunnel) and other than losing a little clearance I might use 3/4" or 1" tube bent in a half circle to form the tunnel and the round tubing would of course be welded to the rect tube.
Is this overkill? Maybe 1/2" sq tube or even recess cuts, then bend the tubing to form the radius instead? My concern is I have to pick this tub up a couple more times...
The body floor pan sheetmetal will be spotwelded to the tubing like normal. Since the shaped tubing would be welded to the 3/4" x 3 rect tube cross braces that would span the width of the floor, the strength would be there, I just don't want to increase the size of the tunnel hump too much. Gotta do whatcha gotta do tho huh!
I don't have the cool tools to form sheetmetal like the stock stiffeners in the first pic in post #691 above so trying to be creative. I've used 3/4 x 3" rect tube on other builds but I wasn't going for a round tunnel shape so a recess cut here or there for a 30 or 45deg angle was easy.
Question- Is there any stronger space saving way to make a support for the tunnel and have it be strong enough to be a body crossmember and be able to use it to lift the body?