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What have you done to your Bronco today?

fluffybunny

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Oct 28, 2015
Messages
180
Started putting in my new seats today. I was a little worried because the shipment was two boxes and they came individually about an hour apart.
 

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nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,604
Well, I've got about 1,000 more hours to go. :)
 

eBronc2

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
189
Got the new body sitting on the chassis! Had to cut clearance holes in the brand new trans tunnel sheetmetal for the shifter tower of the ZF and the twin sticks on the transfer case, and trim a little of the front inside corner of the drivers side wheel tub to clear the 4x4x2 power steering box.

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nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,604
Looks good eBronc2

Here's a couple pics showing how I have at least a 1,000 hrs to go
 

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BronCowie

Contributor
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
8,024
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
Got the new body sitting on the chassis! Had to cut clearance holes in the brand new trans tunnel sheetmetal for the shifter tower of the ZF and the twin sticks on the transfer case, and trim a little of the front inside corner of the drivers side wheel tub to clear the 4x4x2 power steering box.

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O.M.G. Dude you are ....rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRockin' it!!!!!!!! 🕺
 

Jdgephar

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,317
Super excited! I get to pick up my new body this week!
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Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

Lawndart

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
836
Loc.
66030
Parked.
Sadly, the salt life has arrived. (n)(n)(n)(n)(n)
Over 7500 miles this season.
The major item this off season will be new tires.
 

hsach

Contributor
Members Only
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
336
I am trying to keep as much original metal on this bronco as possible so I decided to tear into the driver's fender. It would probably be easier to buy a new one, but I spent a lot of time getting this one to fit perfectly before I realized how much rust was in the seams. I could see the rust bubbles along the seam where it bolts to the door post, but the area on top where it bolts to the inner fender is really bad. Going to have to replace basically the entire seam area with new metal, no rust shows on the surface, but as soon as you cut into the seam it is there. This metal is tough to weld since it is so thin already, but it is definitely worth the effort. Thankfully the passenger side is just surface rust and I don't have to do any metal work.

Here are a some pics of the seam area that attaches to the door post, only 2 places needed to be repaired. I was able to cut out these areas, clean up the metal underneath (wire wheel/sand to bare metal then coat/treat metal) and then weld in new steel. Turned out great and fits exactly like it did before.
Just getting back to fixing my driver side outer fender, started this in March but now I can focus on it a little more.

This was the worst part, the seam was bubbled up and the metal under was rotted away. Not only is the metal thin on the fender, it is different thickness in different areas depending on where it was bent/stretched. I replaced the metal underneath, then welded in new patches on top. I left the factory spot welds in any area I could to keep as much strength, but some areas were rotted away.

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Getting good penetration on the seam weld without blowing through was tough, it is so close to the top edge. I had to cut that far up to get to good metal.
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New patches welded in and ground down. A lot of moving around and compressed air to control heat.

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Final part of the seam replacement. The metal underneath is in better condition and will just need cleanup, I use Rust Bullet to treat the metal before welding everything back together. I clean the Rust Bullet out of the areas where I weld, seam and plug welds, Makes a mess of your welds if you don't. POR15 would work the same, I just have RB. I also use a Dremel cut off wheel for thin metal, takes longer but gives you better fitment for welding. I can't stress enough how important it is to have a tight fit on metal patches for these thin-skinned broncos, at least in areas that will be seen. It will save a lot of work after.

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After this last seam patch, I have 2 small areas to fix where the bolts attach, and this fender is done. Just need to Rust Bullet the inside seams, Epoxy primer, then seam seal. The passenger fender is just surface rust thankfully.

Here is what I found under this last patch section, no surprise. I noticed on this entire seam repair, the metal spot welded to the fender under the seam held up well. I only had to fix a few spots where there was pitting or a hole. The fender metal was mostly destroyed by rust though, that is why I had to go as far up the seam to the edge as I did. Not that it matters, but I wonder if one piece of metal was treated/coated and the fender metal was just bare when spot welded together. Either way, hopefully I have a fender that will last a long time while staying as original as possible.

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sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,604
LOL, crank up that heater in the garage
HEAT's ON... 16deg this am. Cycled the rear suspension and figured out rear air bag placement within 1/4". Tried something silly like sliding a tire in the wheel well. HA, it was even worse than I thought. I'll put the entire episode on my build thread but I'll need a forrklift on the roadside to change a rear tire.... lol
 

Howard2x4x4

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
2,278
Made some brackets to connect the hood brace rods that were cut to make the hood scoop allowing the air filter clear.

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