Wheel and Tire Package??

[Torkman66]

I need to confirm that the wheel and tire package I am looking at buying will work on my Bronco.

Here are my details:

1972 cut
WH 2.5" lift
No BL
WH Disc brake kit on all 4
4:10 gears front and back

Looking at the US Mag U101 wheel, 15x7, 3.75" BS
BFG TA 33x10.50xR15

Any thoughts or pictures of someone running this combo would be great. Any issues with the disc brake conversion?

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't have any pics for you Torkman, but it sounds like it should be just fine.

1. 3.75" Backspacing: The 15" wheels usually do not have any issue with front brakes unless you have the '76 and '77 Bronco-Specific disc brake setup.
However, every once in awhile there is a thicker-than-normal wheel that rubs the GM caliper mounting bracket. The one time it happened to a Bronco I was helping on we simply tapped one ear down and all was right with the world again.
It only hit on one side too, so my feeling was that the bracket itself had a slight deformation, rather than being any intrinsic problem with the combination.

2. 33x10.50 Tires: With the cut fenders and modest lift your tire size should be no issue at all with clearing the body with that tire combo.
But aside from the flares, were any of the other "appendages" trimmed down? And which rear fender flares do you have? If the older Bushwacker or fiberglass models, the leading edge often is closer to the tire than it is with modern flares. Sometimes leading to slight rubbing.
Got pics?

3. 15x7 Wheels: Perfect width for the tire size choice. Some don't like the narrower-wheel-than-tire look, but I think it's great.
It also protects the rim edge better when off-roading or mall-curbing. It also helps retain the tire bead better when lower air pressures are used.

4. 3.75" Backspace: Just right for a Bronco I think. Some will find the tucked-in look not to their liking, but here again I like it better than the too-far-out skateboard look of the much wider wheels, or those with less backspace. I like my tires tucked up near the edge of the flares. Yours might be just a bit tucked inward, rather than flush.

5. Rear Wheel Openings: Probably no issues, other than if you have the old school flares.

6. Front Wheel Openings: Probably no issues either, OTHER THAN rubbing the radius arms at tight turning positions. OR rubbing on that inner lip of the fender skirt if it was not trimmed initially.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Long way of saying you'll be fine under most conditions.
Did you do the fender cutting, or was it done before you got the Bronco?

Paul

 

[Torkman66]

DirtDonk, as always, you step up with the info I needed. Couple points:
1. I have the entire Bronco down to the frame which is going to Powder Coat this week. I want to get the wheels and tires so I can get it back rolling again as soon as I have the axles back in which should be within 30 days. So no pics and no way to test fit. I am installing the 4 wheel Disc brake kit from WH and it arrived today. It shows its a 76-77 Disc system. Will that be a problem as you noted? Might I need a small spacer?

2. I have not yet started anything on the body and have not purchased any flares yet. I plan on painting them body color so was thinking about the fiberglass options.

So overall, it sounds like those wheels and tires will fit fine with a possible front disc brake issue that can be resolved if needed. Thanks!!

 

[DirtDonk]

1. I am installing the 4 wheel Disc brake kit from WH and it arrived today. It shows its a 76-77 Disc system.

Got a link to this system? The only 4-wheel disc kit that I know of that we sell is listed as a "67 to '75" system.
That said, I mentioned the '76 and '77 earlier, but frankly with your wheels having only 3.75" backspacing you might be ok.
The space is limited between the tie-rod ends and steering arms and wheel edges. Some wheels are so close you can't go over 3.625", while with others you can do 3.75" without trouble. But it's close.
I don't know about that wheel specifically, but since you don't have a '76 or a '77, and at this point at least I don't know of a problem with your earlier stuff, it should not be an issue.

2. I have not yet started anything on the body and have not purchased any flares yet. I plan on painting them body color so was thinking about the fiberglass options.

Either fiberglass or ABS can be painted no problem. And with most smaller tires there is no issue in the back. But with 33's even narrow ones, you could run afoul of the leading edge of the rear flare where it angles downward. I'll see if I can put a couple of pictures together of the differences, but that might be awhile as I'm running away from the computer for awhile.
Maybe someone else has the images we can use?

Paul

 

[Torkman66]

Yes, you are correct regarding the Disc Brake kit. I must have gotten confused with another description. I purchased 2991NET.
I'm going to go ahead and purchase, Thanks again!!

 

[sprdv1]

Yes, you are correct regarding the Disc Brake kit. I must have gotten confused with another description. I purchased 2991NET.
I'm going to go ahead and purchase, Thanks again!!

Good luck Time and money right

 

[sprdv1]

Don't have any pics for you Torkman, but it sounds like it should be just fine.

1. 3.75" Backspacing: The 15" wheels usually do not have any issue with front brakes unless you have the '76 and '77 Bronco-Specific disc brake setup.
However, every once in awhile there is a thicker-than-normal wheel that rubs the GM caliper mounting bracket. The one time it happened to a Bronco I was helping on we simply tapped one ear down and all was right with the world again.
It only hit on one side too, so my feeling was that the bracket itself had a slight deformation, rather than being any intrinsic problem with the combination.

2. 33x10.50 Tires: With the cut fenders and modest lift your tire size should be no issue at all with clearing the body with that tire combo.
But aside from the flares, were any of the other "appendages" trimmed down? And which rear fender flares do you have? If the older Bushwacker or fiberglass models, the leading edge often is closer to the tire than it is with modern flares. Sometimes leading to slight rubbing.
Got pics?

3. 15x7 Wheels: Perfect width for the tire size choice. Some don't like the narrower-wheel-than-tire look, but I think it's great.
It also protects the rim edge better when off-roading or mall-curbing. It also helps retain the tire bead better when lower air pressures are used.

4. 3.75" Backspace: Just right for a Bronco I think. Some will find the tucked-in look not to their liking, but here again I like it better than the too-far-out skateboard look of the much wider wheels, or those with less backspace. I like my tires tucked up near the edge of the flares. Yours might be just a bit tucked inward, rather than flush.

5. Rear Wheel Openings: Probably no issues, other than if you have the old school flares.

6. Front Wheel Openings: Probably no issues either, OTHER THAN rubbing the radius arms at tight turning positions. OR rubbing on that inner lip of the fender skirt if it was not trimmed initially.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Long way of saying you'll be fine under most conditions.
Did you do the fender cutting, or was it done before you got the Bronco?

good man

 

[Torkman66]

Only issue I discovered is that the tire balancing weights that were put on the inside of the wheel hit the rear caliper. They hit the front caliper backing plate caliper mount as well. I had to have external weights put on.

The clearance is very close on the rear and the front. I’d say maybe 1/6” or 1/8”. Would it do anything for me to install WH 1/4” or 1/2” spacers? I know that only moves the tire out a bit, but would like opinions about spacers and if so what size.

 

[DirtDonk]

Personally I would not use spacers as a substitute for a different type of wheel weight that’s readily available and commonly used.
Nothing wrong with spacers if you use good quality, but as a fix for a wheel weight clearance?
Nope…

 

[DirtDonk]

Usually, depending upon the wheel offset, you can use stick on wheel weights as long as they are put on in such a location as to not rub the brakes.
It’s a common practice for the weight installer to find out where the least clearance is on a particular wheel, and avoid that spot for applying weights.
But when that’s not feasible, rim bead weights are the answer unless your wheels don’t allow it.

 

[Scoop]

If you're buying a new tire and wheel package I would consider going 17 inch wheels. It's getting harder to find a good selection of 15 inch tires anymore and the added clearance of 17's is a bonus.

 

[Torkman66]

Picture of them mounted.

 

[sprdv1]

If you're buying a new tire and wheel package I would consider going 17 inch wheels. It's getting harder to find a good selection of 15 inch tires anymore and the added clearance of 17's is a bonus.

Absolutely.. Did same when I got some new beadlocks

 

[sprdv1]

Personally I would not use spacers as a substitute for a different type of wheel weight that’s readily available and commonly used.
Nothing wrong with spacers if you use good quality, but as a fix for a wheel weight clearance?
Nope…

and choose the width accurately

 

[Torkman66]

OK, my fault , but I was not considering spacers for any wheel balancing/weight clearance issues. While I did not write it as clear as I should have, basically, the internal weights hit the new caliper and popped off in back and the caliper bracket in front. I had to have external weights installed, that solved the problem.

The spacer question had nothing to do with the weights, it had to do with "general" clearance issue given the 15" wheels and how close the wheels are to the calipers/bracket. Nothing to do with weights at all.

Spacers would move the wheels out away from the calipers a bit. In the front the caliper bracket is what is very close to the wheel. In the back it is the widest part of the caliper that is very close to the wheel. My thought was to use some size of spacer that would move the wheel further away both front and back. In front it would provide additional clearance away from the bracket, and in the rear it would move the wheel out toward a more narrow portion of the caliper. As of right now, no clearance issues other than it is about 1/8" away. If that's OK, then no need for spacers.

 

[aconner52]

I have a '70 and doing a 2" body and 2" frame lift, disk brakes front and rear with a 408 EFI and AOL transmission, should have power to turn larger tires. Was thinking of 35x11.50 with 20" rims to eliminate roll but not sure if this is a good size or too large. My previous '73 I ran 33" and had rub on turns. What offset should I use, not wanting to necessarily have the "tuck-in" look, more wide stance but do not want to get fender rub, or frame rub when turning on corners without loosing turning radius. Using for daily driving occasionally or hunting in woods, nothing extreme except mud (running mostly in Florida). Anyone else with this setup? Am I going down a rabbit hole here?

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey there aconner. Welcome to classicbroncos.
And thanks for joining the conversation. Although your question would seem more appropriate for a discussion regarding wheel size and tire and body clearance than it does for one about clearance for wheel weights.
However, I’ll take a stab.

What kind of tire roll are you worried about? Are you going to be street racing this thing, or is it a casual cruiser?
Tire roll is a legitimate thing, but it has not always been much of a concern for the Bronco crowd. We’ve been running 15 inch wheels for over 50 years with tires the size you are considering and still had it work passably well.
So personally, I don’t think you need to go all the way to 20s unless you are really concerned about some specific safety aspect.

I personally don’t like the look of wheels that large, but there’s no real arguing that a more stable and stiffer sidewall doesn’t help in at least some regards.

I think we should save the body clearance and turning diameter discussion for another thread, however. So I’ll stop here.
Because yes, it is a rabbit hole. And yes, there are a ton of considerations.
It’s not that it can’t be done successfully. Just that lots of compromises might be in order.
Tire height, wheel offset, the look you can enjoy, fender cutting, etc.

If you can’t find another thread along those lines, feel free to start your own. I know a lot of us will join in the conversation.
Good luck!

 

[sprdv1]

OK, my fault , but I was not considering spacers for any wheel balancing/weight clearance issues. While I did not write it as clear as I should have, basically, the internal weights hit the new caliper and popped off in back and the caliper bracket in front. I had to have external weights installed, that solved the problem.

The spacer question had nothing to do with the weights, it had to do with "general" clearance issue given the 15" wheels and how close the wheels are to the calipers/bracket. Nothing to do with weights at all.

Spacers would move the wheels out away from the calipers a bit. In the front the caliper bracket is what is very close to the wheel. In the back it is the widest part of the caliper that is very close to the wheel. My thought was to use some size of spacer that would move the wheel further away both front and back. In front it would provide additional clearance away from the bracket, and in the rear it would move the wheel out toward a more narrow portion of the caliper. As of right now, no clearance issues other than it is about 1/8" away. If that's OK, then no need for spacers.

figure out what you was gonna do?