Crossmember- Fabricating Help/Advice

[Jaybr]

Let me start by saying I’m not a fabricator or expert welder. You may have seen my post about the TBP 4r70w crossmember not working with my JD radius arm brackets. I was going to just modify the stock brackets but the [mention]Dax [/mention] challenged me to make the TBP part work.

I’m off work today and the metal shop is open so here’s my idea. 3x3 angle notched and cut to fit, then weld it in place. Once that’s in place, cut out the original angled plate that’s in the way and weld the backside of my piece. This way I don’t have to worry about throwing off any of the original angle or dimensions.

Will this work? Will it be strong enough? 3/16 or stick with 1/4 like the TBP bracket?

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[BanditBronco]

I tried to download your photos so I could draw on them, but it wouldn't work. I don't have any issue with what you are suggesting, I would recommend sticking with the same material thickness throughout. Also, if you have room, triangle corner gussets always help in 90 degree corner situations. If you can swing some on top, or even better on top and bottom that would help with the stiffness. They don't need to be full length, even 1.5" would help.

I would also recommend leaving your angle full length on the vertical side and not notching it around the tube. I would rather see you cut the tube so you can weld around all 4 sides.

 

[Jaybr]

I can probably get some gussets in there.

As far as my vertical and the tube; it’s actually C channel with plate welded to bottom. By notching I can weld front and back, so 6 sides. Wouldn’t that be stronger ? This also allows me to get everything in place before cutting anything so I don’t have to worry about messing up dimensions.

Thanks for the advice!


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[Jaybr]

Picked up the steel and got it cut, a little loose on the corners where tube is rounded.

Any others comments/thoughts before I weld?

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[BanditBronco]

Use something to try and hold your spacing across the two mounting flanges. when you weld on the single side of that flat plate flange it is going to want to pull inwards. You will have an easier time trying to line up the bolt holes afterwards the less it warps. let it cool all the way down before you release whatever you are using to spread/hold the spacing.

 

[Jaybr]

Use something to try and hold your spacing across the two mounting flanges. when you weld on the single side of that flat plate flange it is going to want to pull inwards. You will have an easier time trying to line up the bolt holes afterwards the less it warps. let it cool all the way down before you release whatever you are using to spread/hold the spacing.

Thanks.

I’ve got some welding magnets that should work. I think I’m going to tilt it just a little to gain some clearance at the bottom of the flat plate with the mounting holes.


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[BanditBronco]

I am talking about the distance between the plate that bolts to one frame rail and the plate that bolts to the other frame rail on the crossmember. You will need a bar or something that can span that entire width, like 24" or however wide the actual crossmember is so that you don't warp the flange and it doesn't sit flat against the side of the frame anymore after you weld the piece you fabricated to it. A magnet isn't going to hold that flange from warping.

 

[Jaybr]

Flange doesn’t appear to have warped, it’s 1/4” and I don’t think I got it hot enough to warp it, although I can see the heat marks on the back side of my weld.

Feel free to laugh at my welding skills, just started welding 3 years ago and haven’t touched the welder in 2 years, I suck.

I did get it on there and it’s not going anywhere, tomorrow I’ll cut the back side out and weld there, then test fit.

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[Jaybr]

Well, ordered JD 2-into-1 exhaust today and watching the install video it needs to run across the top of this crossmember and my modification will be in the way. Guess I'll scrap this and go back to modifying the stock crossmember.

 

[bax]

Well, ordered JD 2-into-1 exhaust today and watching the install video it needs to run across the top of this crossmember and my modification will be in the way. Guess I'll scrap this and go back to modifying the stock crossmember.

Probably a good idea at this point. Dont hate me unless you want to.

 

[Jaybr]

Probably a good idea at this point. Dont hate me unless you want to.

No hate here. If I’m going to continue with these Bronco projects I need to improve my fabrication and welding skills, all good.


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[Jaybr]

Got the factory crossmember cut to fit, now just need to weld some plate in the hole.

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[BanditBronco]

Nice job, much better than what you had going.

 

[Jaybr]

much better than what you had going.

Come on, you didn't like my fabrication skills?

I learned everything I know about fabrication from watching YouTube and TV car shows.

And my welder buddy's instructions when I got the welder where make a pool and move it around.

 

[surfer-b]

Come on, you didn't like my fabrication skills?

I learned everything I know about fabrication from watching YouTube and TV car shows.

And my welder buddy's instructions when I got the welder where make a pool and move it around.

dont give up on the welding, get you some scrap and have fun, dont hesitate to try different settings, you will figure it out

 

[Jaybr]

dont give up on the welding, get you some scrap and have fun, dont hesitate to try different settings, you will figure it out

if nothing else I'm persistent and will get better at the welding. One of the issues I've been having is I can't see the pool. I attribute that to my cheap harbor freight helmet and ordered a better one this morning.

 

[hsach]

if nothing else I'm persistent and will get better at the welding. One of the issues I've been having is I can't see the pool. I attribute that to my cheap harbor freight helmet and ordered a better one this morning.

Definitely get a good helmet. Also, throw some light on where you are welding, I use LED lights with magnets on the bottom. Once you start to see the actual pool and how it reacts, things will fall into place. Practice on different thickness metal, thin metal is the most difficult. And remember, it is metal and most times you can recover from a mistake by adding more!

You may have inspired me, I need to buy/fab a crossmember for my 4r70W when it goes in. I haven't really looked into it yet, but the modification on the stock crossmember looks pretty easy, thanks for posting a picture!

 

[Jaybr]

You may have inspired me, I need to buy/fab a crossmember for my 4r70W when it goes in. I haven't really looked into it yet, but the modification on the stock crossmember looks pretty easy, thanks for posting a picture!

I just used the pics off the AA instructions, cut 1” in from the inside edge of each hole and went 1” deep. For the brackets I picked up 2 8” pieces of 3x3x1/4 angle and will weld in some gussets on the ends.

 

[bigmuddy]

Come on, you didn't like my fabrication skills?

I learned everything I know about fabrication from watching YouTube and TV car shows.

And my welder buddy's instructions when I got the welder where make a pool and move it around.

My advice while you are learning to weld: Continue to practice on non critical parts or scrap. On things that are going to be vibrating or accepting a lot of force and critical to staying on the road I would tack them together and either get a buddy to weld or take them to an expert and have them finish welding them up.
I would hate to see that mount let go under hard acceleration! Good luck and keep plugging away.

 

[Jaybr]

My advice while you are learning to weld: Continue to practice on non critical parts or scrap. On things that are going to be vibrating or accepting a lot of force and critical to staying on the road I would tack them together and either get a buddy to weld or take them to an expert and have them finish welding them up.
I would hate to see that mount let go under hard acceleration! Good luck and keep plugging away.

That's what I did on the shock mounts and frame.