• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

T bird caliper problems

OP
OP
4x4man514

4x4man514

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 28, 2003
Messages
1,057
Loc.
Augusta,Georgia
I have never heard of gravity bleeding but I tried it . I let 8 to 10 oz of fluid pass through each of the front calipers.

I do have a pedal now but I don't know how hard it is. It seems like it was harder before the seized caliper was replaced.

I often wonder just how much pressure are you supposed to put on a brake pedal? It seems like if you stand on it hard enough you can drive them all to the floor.

I guess master vs caliper piston size makes a difference in how the pedal feels and I just don't know what to expect. Maybe I should just leave it as be until I get it running and driving and then try to get it right.
 

Glass Pony

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,821
Loc.
Sussex County Delaware
This is my theory. I think when folks use a vacuum bleeder, when you crack open the bleeder screw, after a while the air bubbles you see are coming from around the threads of the bleeder screw as they are a "straight thread" and not a "tapered thread" like pipe.
I agree, move on and get it running and driving and then give it another shot at the brakes.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,480
Agree too. For now anyway...
But there was quite a bit of effort on 4x4man's part to seal those threads. I forget what was used, but notice the smeared substance all around the bleeders? If that didn't stop at least most of the air, then it would seem to me it's coming from somewhere else as well.

But it also seems to me that vacuum bleeding, as popular as it is, would be the least effective method given the other things it can pull through.
I would think the old-fashioned way (pedal pump) is most like real braking, but not always doable if you don't have a helper.
Then pressure bleeding would be next. With gravity bleeding following when it works. Which is doesn't always do with much efficiency. Although when I tried it with my Bronco it worked surprisingly well!
Then vacuum bleeding would be last. But by "last" it doesn't mean it can't work. Just that it would seem to more easily introduce other stuff.

Back to the master cylinder, I could not really see the drop you were talking about in the earlier picture, but a drop that does not keep increasing is not a leak that I would be too worried about. Or are you cleaning it off and it keeps re-appearing? That would be something to note.
You might send an e-mail or call Wilwood to see what they say about that previous leaking out of the back of the piston when you were pushing on the caliper. Maybe it is nothing, or maybe it started a cascading effect.
But seems to me too, that if you had a problem with the master, you would have seen air in both front AND rear circuits.

And lastly, did you mention how yours is plumbed? If so I don't remember, so curious if you have front brakes to front port, or front brakes to rear port on the master cylinder?

Paul
 
OP
OP
4x4man514

4x4man514

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 28, 2003
Messages
1,057
Loc.
Augusta,Georgia
Thanks for all the help guys! I always heard vacuum bleeding was the way to go but I I see now thats not the case. My pedal seems decent now so I'm gonna hold off until I got everything else in working order. Thanks again guys!
 
Top