New hydro boost, disc brakes and proportioning valves

[summerlife]

Ok so I just finished installing the hydro boost after having to order a longer higher pressure line as the one from toms wasn't long enough. Everything is going good but I'm confused with the 4way disc proportioning valve.

It has 5 ports and one large one for the rear.
I had the old h block on before. I'm trying to figure out how the lines are suppose to be laid out? I only have one line going out for the front dics brakes and one for the rear.

1: The rear one is a small thread so won't fit the huge hole on the proportioning valves so should I find an adapter? Or do I need to upgrade the lines to a bigger one? They split near the back into two line

2: Do I need to make it so I have two front brake lines going to the proportioning block instead of just the one that splits?

3: does it matter if I hooked up a electric plug to that plug on the block as my bronco doesn't have one and the old h block didn't have one either. Thanks In advance guys. Can't find any diagrams to completely explain thai. There is a diagram for the blocks and Wich ones go where but not what the lines are suppose to do.

 

[DirtDonk]

It has 5 ports and one large one for the rear.

Probably just the industry standard proportioning valve. 5 ports is for 2 Wheel Dr. trucks and passenger cars that have two front output lines. Our Broncos only have one of course, so the second outlet should normally be capped/plugged.
I thought they normally came with a plug already installed. Did yours come with a hardware kit including some adapters and plugs?

1: The rear one is a small thread so won't fit the huge hole on the proportioning valves so should I find an adapter? Or do I need to upgrade the lines to a bigger one?

Yes to the adapter. They’re sized to match factory brake lines from some other vehicle. Probably GM-based vehicles.

2: Do I need to make it so I have two front brake lines going to the proportioning block instead of just the one that splits?

Nope. Just cap one port off as mentioned, and use the second one as your single line out.

3: does it matter if I hooked up a electric plug to that plug on the block as my bronco doesn't have one and the old h block didn't have one either.

That’s odd. What year is your bronco? Does it have the brake warning light on the dash?
All 68 through 75 broncos should have it. And all should’ve had a plastic switch in the H block and a two wire connector.
It does not matter to the braking system, and does not change the function of the proportioning valve/combination valve by leaving it disconnected.
But it’s nice to have.

 

[summerlife]

Thank you for that quick response. That helps clarify quite a bit. The proportioning block did not come with any hardware or plugs so I will have to order them. I got it from summit racing. I'm not sire if it has a plug and just wasn't hooked up but I didn't see one. I'm sure when I get the new wiring harness that It will have a plug and I can hook it up then.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, they usually do.
Typically though, they have the harness for the older Ford style, which has a connector with two wires. The newer ones are a single wire.
But that’s not an insurmountable problem. You end up simply cutting and splicing and twisting the wires together into one, to connect to the switch on the proportioning/combination valve with the single contact.
The threads in the combination valve are unfortunately different too, so you can’t simply plug a two wire bronco switch into a aftermarket combo valve.
Oh well. Just another thing we have to deal with.

 

[jamesroney]

Ok so I just finished installing the hydro boost after having to order a longer higher pressure line as the one from toms wasn't long enough. Everything is going good but I'm confused with the 4way disc proportioning valve.

It has 5 ports and one large one for the rear.
I had the old h block on before. I'm trying to figure out how the lines are suppose to be laid out? I only have one line going out for the front dics brakes and one for the rear.

1: The rear one is a small thread so won't fit the huge hole on the proportioning valves so should I find an adapter? Or do I need to upgrade the lines to a bigger one? They split near the back into two line

2: Do I need to make it so I have two front brake lines going to the proportioning block instead of just the one that splits?

3: does it matter if I hooked up a electric plug to that plug on the block as my bronco doesn't have one and the old h block didn't have one either. Thanks In advance guys. Can't find any diagrams to completely explain thai. There is a diagram for the blocks and Wich ones go where but not what the lines are suppose to do.

So this is where I make a “plug” for the Bronco vendors on this site. If you had purchased your hardware from WH, it would have come with the correct adapters and plugs. (Sometimes!)

But to your questions:
1. Yes, you can replace your rear brake line with one from a 76-77 and it will have a bigger tube nut. It will also be bent correctly to clear the Z-bar, and aims the right direction for the new prop valve. If you have an auto, you can stretch your old line to reach.

2. Most people don’t. They just plug one port. But I don’t like that. I also don’t like having 18 connections, tubes, hoses and brackets on my front axle. So I use the ports on the prop valve, and run a single hose to the caliper on each side…like every other OEM on the planet. See pic below.

3. The old h-block switch serves TWO functions. One is to ground the wire to the frame if the system balance valve shifts. The OTHER is to tell the system that the switch is connected, and light the lamp during crank. If you tie the two wires together, and take a single wire to the switch…then the system doesn’t know if the switch is plugged in or not. So if the wire falls off…you can’t tell. I went to great pains to scour the junkyard to find a correct and original 1976 F250 disc/drum 2WD prop valve. Works like a champ, plugs in just fine.

 

[toddz69]

3. The old h-block switch serves TWO functions. One is to ground the wire to the frame if the system balance valve shifts. The OTHER is to tell the system that the switch is connected, and light the lamp during crank. If you tie the two wires together, and take a single wire to the switch…then the system doesn’t know if the switch is plugged in or not. So if the wire falls off…you can’t tell. I went to great pains to scour the junkyard to find a correct and original 1976 F250 disc/drum 2WD prop valve. Works like a champ, plugs in just fine.

Are you running this valve with 4 wheel discs? I forget....

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

Are you running this valve with 4 wheel discs? I forget....

Todd Z.

Your memory is fading. Explorer discs on a big bearing 60. With the parking cables pointing backwards, and the calipers facing forward. No caliper to shock issues.

 

[toddz69]

Your memory is fading. Explorer discs on a big bearing 60. With the parking cables pointing backwards, and the calipers facing forward. No caliper to shock issues.

It's not the only thing that's fading.......dang it, I knew that. Glad to hear the stock 2WD valve assembly works well with that.

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

It's not the only thing that's fading.......dang it, I knew that. Glad to hear the stock 2WD valve assembly works well with that.

Todd Z.

I will admit that I sourced the valve when I planned to run rear drums...but I also bought the aftermarket brass prop valve for disc/drum from Toms. Then I changed my mind and went Explorer disc. And tried to source a 76 Lincoln disc/disc master cyl. Then I decided to use the Disc/drum master cyl that came with the power brake kit. Then I drilled out the master cyl to remove the residual pressure valve. Then I found out it didn't have a residual valve, and it was just a brass seat. But of course I destroyed it. Then I machined a new oversized brass seat. So don't do that...

I will have to wait for the next rainy day to see if the brake bias is acceptable. Seems OK now, but the front pads are not bedded yet, so I need to get everything good and hot and then see which end locks up first. Might not rain here for another 6 months tho...

 

[Jc.av8r]

RE: #3, I left my sensor without the wire. Doesn't change the function of the prop valve.

I just replaced my prop valve because the old one was leaking. It's never been connected to the brake warning light so I just didn't bother.

 

[jamesroney]

Yup. It’s all fun and games until the pad de-bonds, the liner ejects, the piston hyper-extends, disintegrates against the rotor and the fluid disappears.

Then the light on the dash comes on and says “call your father…”

This happened last week on my JKUR with my kid. Look at the old caliper at the very top of the 2nd pic.
Please hook up your brake balance switch wiring.

 

[summerlife]

Ok so I had to get new bolts to replace the t-bolts for the axle retaining bolts because they weren't long enough with the additional plate needed for the disc brakes. I ground down one side on a belt sander( takes a bit with grade 8 bolts) so they would slide in. I had to mount the brakes on the front side of the rotor to avoid hitting the shocks and made it so left was right and right was left so that the bleeding valve was still at the top. only thing is if I want to hook up the E-brake I will have to make some custom mounting due to the springs being backwards but oh well can't have everything.

1: Main question is about the retaining plate for the bearing/axle. There is no backing plate and the retaining plate sits a little more then 1/8" off the axles housing. I know before it had the drum to act as a small backing plate but it still wasn't pressured firmly against it. Is this something I need to address by putting something like washer in for spacers and just tighten until they touch? or is that spacing ok and not damage the bearing or axles?

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, I’ve always thought the space was a bad idea but many members here just tighten it down successfully.
The retainer will flex over the bearing and meet the housing flange, so achieving full torque is not a problem.
I feel it puts a little too much pre-load on the bearing, but so far nobody seems to have run afoul of excess wear. And several members here that know more than I about them, and even one of our own guys, have said just tighten it down.
Is that 1/8 inch estimate pretty accurate though? Did your measure just to make sure it’s not more? Sounds about right, but it wouldn’t hurt to know for sure.
I think you’ve got a couple of good smart feller’s joining in this conversation already. So Todd and James should chime in soon.
Meantime, back to the top!

 

[summerlife]

Hello, been a bit. So the truck started up after getting everything switched over as well as the hydro boost and proportioning valve. But it ran for like 30 seconds and died. I tested everything with a voltrometer and found the fuel pump and coil weren't working. So even thought that seemed like a very odd coincidence I replaced the pump and could here it turn on and still it wouldn't start so I replaced the coil and boom it runs now but it makes the god awful squeezing nois from the belt I think.

So
1: could this be from the hydroboost. Do I need to adjust it somehow. I'm pretty sure I hooked the lines up right.

2: belt looks fine but does it need adjusting?

3: tensioner looks good and the power steering always worked fine before this. It did have a slight squeel when starting before all the changes but it was only when starting and went away is 2-3seconds

 

[DirtDonk]

Usually it's the alternator belt that does the most squealing. Especially after you've cranked it a few times without it firing up and re-charging. So the more the battery is run down, the harder the alternator has to work to bring it back quickly to the upper charge level.
Do you just have one belt? V-belt or serpentine?
Usually serpentine belts don't squeal unless they're dirty or contaminated with a chemical or three. Or just tired and worn.
But they "can" make noise, so you can't rule it out.

You can test to be sure it's a belt by removing the belt and running the engine. If the noise goes away, you've found your culprit.

The other good news (if you can put up with the noise for a bit) is that if it's the alternator overloading the grip of the belt, it will usually quiet back down once the battery is mostly charged again.

Paul

 

[summerlife]

Just to update

It was a failing tensioner pully making the squeeking on start up. And then the hydro boost problem was just an excessive amount of air in the system due to the new hydro boost lines and such.

I kept having the common problem of trying to get enough fluid in when the air compresses and then when I shut it off it would shoot it out like a rocket as the air un-compresses.

I just ended up extending my reservoir to avoid airating the system and keeping the bubbles far away from the intake and walla 15min later not a peep and can turn the steering wheel with one finger.

I also ended up using hardened extra thick washer that worked perfect for spacing the rear axle housing end.. I have had no issues with the rear end since doing any of this so I think it was successful.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great news! Thanks for taking the time to update.