1970 302 Oil/Zinc and Lead

[tonytony9]

Hi Everyone,

After recent conversation I wanted to run a few pieces of advice I received by the forums to see how it stacks up. Based on my research and that advice, I believe this would be proper procedure for my 1970 Bronco 302. To my knowledge, the engine is totally stock.

Oil Type: Conventional
Weight: 10w-40
Add Zinc: Yes
Zinc Additive Type: Lucas, TB Zinc-Plus Racing Zoop Engine Break-In Oil Additive (https://www.lucasoilcenter.com/shop...as-tb-zinc-plus-engine-break-in-oil-additive/)
Frequency: Every Oil Change
Add Lead: Yes
Lead Additive Type: Any recommendations?
Frequency: Every other fill-up (seems like it will get pricey)

Thanks!

 

[m_m70]

1-I use Valvoline VR1 10W-30 High Zinc oil.

2-You don't need to add lead to your gas.

 

[tonytony9]

1-I use Valvoline VR1 10W-30 High Zinc oil.

2-You don't need to add lead to your gas.

Thank you. Any idea why #2 is passed around here and there?

 

[Timmy390]

Thank you. Any idea why #2 is passed around here and there?

1 D 10 T's.......

 

[Broncobowsher]

The zinc is really important on fresh flat tappet cams. Less so on used ones. The zinc helps with the burnishing of the lifter into the lobe. Once burnished everything should be happy. But maintaining zinc won't hurt. If running anything aggressive (bigger cam, stiffer springs) then adding zinc is more important to maintain an older engine.

Lead on the other hand, it was last at the pump in the late 80s. If missing lead would have been a problem, it would have shown up in the past 35 years. The heads have likely already been rebuilt with hardened seats by now. Lead is most useful in engines that run a hard life, aircraft engines that are run at full throttle for hundreds of hours. Boat motors that run flat out to the back side of the lake. If you have an original never updated engine that old and run it that hard after decades of gentle life, you are going to be rebuilding it regardless if there is lead in there or not. Lead being good for valve train was only a tiny little bit of what lead was really used for. Boosting the octane of low grade fuel was what lead was for. Before lead, engines still ran, without any real issues other than dealing with low octane fuel. Getting high octane fuels today, without lead additives, is fairly easy. 60+ years ago it took a heavy dose of lead to bring 80 octane regular fuel up to premium Ethel of 87 octane. Today you can get 100 octane unleaded at some pumps. And as far as how much octane to run, more is not better. Enough, without too much, is right. If you hear ping, back off the timing, generally isn't the right way to be dealing with it. Too little timing will get you a late, slow burn that is still in progress as the exhaust valve opens. Too little timing can burn an exhaust valve. Add lead, advance timing, don't burn a valve. That's how it worked.

 

[bronco italiano]

Don't use zinc additives. Use an oil with high zinc levels, at least 1200ppm.
Many oils out there now meeting the need.
Personally I use SWEPCO 306 engine oils and 201 manual trans/t-case/differential oil. I can use either conventional Dino or synthetic with swpeco.

 

[Jdgephar]

Mobile 1 15w-50 will have what you need.

Heres a whole list from the Corvette forums.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/2484100-list-of-flat-tappet-oils.html

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

 

[Timmy390]

Most 15w-40 diesel oil will have the zinc you need. That said alway check the data sheet. I run Rotella T4 in my 1969 Mach 1 390FE. If I didn't trust it I sure as hell would not be running it in my FE. Also run it in my 2500hd and Bronco. It's also been put in my Samurai.

Tim

 

[jamesroney]

Most 15w-40 diesel oil will have the zinc you need. That said alway check the data sheet. I run Rotella T4 in my 1969 Mach 1 390FE. If I didn't trust it I sure as hell would not be running it in my FE. Also run it in my 2500hd and Bronco. It's also been put in my Samurai.

Tim

Be careful here. Rotella T4 in 15w-40 has the right additive package. But Rotella meeting SN, in anything with a -30. It cannot.

Posted here from the corvette link, and I think it’s true:

• “Any oil marked API SM/SN, ILSAC GF-4/5 or ILSAC CJ-5 in grades SAE 0W-20, SAE 5W-20, SAE 0W-30, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30cannot have sufficient ZDDP.”

The API gives a level of protection that correlates to the “service level”. Until 2018, the higher service level meant better protection. Since API service level K it now provides LESS protection. So SL, SM, SN are increasingly worse. (Or not better.).

It’s a minefield out there. I also use Rotella T4 15W-40 because it’s cheap and it has the necessary protection. (And my Cummins has stupid flat tappets.)

 

[Timmy390]

Far as my reading tells me....Spec API CJ-4/SM should have 1200 ppm zinc where the new spec CK-4 will be much less. And yes they keep taking out more and more zinc thus the "most" and always read the data sheet statements

As of note, last rime I looked the wal mart brand super tech diesel oil was API CJ-4 so in a pinch I would consider it as well.

Lots of people I know are switching to "Driven Racing Oil". For there flat tappet cams. It's high zinc but don't think they make a diesel oil.

Tim

 

[tonytony9]

1-I use Valvoline VR1 10W-30 High Zinc oil.

2-You don't need to add lead to your gas.

Mobile 1 15w-50 will have what you need.

Heres a whole list from the Corvette forums.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/2484100-list-of-flat-tappet-oils.html

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

Thank you for this information. The oils on this list seem to mostly be synthetic or a blend. I am under the impression I should only be using a conventional oil. The 10w-30 @m_m70 recommended is conventional and seems to hit the 1200 ppm mark: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...3793b338/47910101-39ba-ed11-b81d-48df3793b338 . Is the weight high enough?

 

[bronco italiano]

swepco 306 is conventional oil