@TheLimeRanger what’s your location?
If I were smart, I'd just build a bunch of used housings that are cut for a 3.5 lift Bronco. But you kinda have to twist the track bar mount too. And the coil cups start to bow a little.Seems to me that a list of people and shops that can perform the cut and turn, in the form of a stickie thread, would be a good idea. Since this topic comes up so often.
Glad to know I’m not the only slow one that since no one can afford our labor we work for freeUnfortunately, I won't work for money. But this building axles for free is getting silly.
im on Long Island. theres a shop in MA called Mitchell differential that looks like they could probably do it, and one in CT called Ct. Axle and spindle. was hoping for someone a little closer to home if possible.@TheLimeRanger what’s your location?
... and don't forget that you "might as well" put in one of my strokers too!! WTH right??i was skeptical also. i thought for sure those bushings were in backwards, or they werent 7° bushings, so i took it apart, they were in right and they were 7°. I just drew the short straw on the dana 44. the guy welding it probably did it on a friday at 4:45 and wanted to get the hell out of there! ive reached the point where ive had enough of it driving like crap, now i just need to find someone to do it. i dont have the skillset to take this on myself. i know where this goes though, well, while im doing this, i might as well go to an overdrive transmission, and if im going to do that, might as well change the gear ratio's lol. i need to focus!
Yes sir all the weight is on it. Can’t see it but the axle is sitting on jack stands.Is all of the weight on the front axle? If it is your good, if not I’d check it at that point, it will increase. If the weight is in weld it 7* is more than most call perfect but I don’t think it’s an issue. My bronco is at 11-1/2* and another vehicle I have is at 20*, the tires on it lay over like a road grader lol. But they both drive very nice.
No you won’t. If you go with the “other arms” the only thing that has to change is the wedges.Yes sir all the weight is on it. Can’t see it but the axle is sitting on jack stands.
I’ve been contemplating on going a little less castor in case I decide to put a set of duffs trex arms on it in the future. Not sure if I should or not. If I leave it at 7 and I decide to go with the other arms I’d have something like 11 1/4*. Would that be too much for tire wear?
You can always put degreed bushings upside down to reduce caster. As for tire wear I don’t find it to be a problem but my truck gets a lot of trail miles which wears them pretty flat.Yes sir all the weight is on it. Can’t see it but the axle is sitting on jack stands.
I’ve been contemplating on going a little less castor in case I decide to put a set of duffs trex arms on it in the future. Not sure if I should or not. If I leave it at 7 and I decide to go with the other arms I’d have something like 11 1/4*. Would that be too much for tire wear?
Yes sir. I appreciate all the help.No you won’t. If you go with the “other arms” the only thing that has to change is the wedges.
As long as you are at your lift height, your caster will always be 7, and your pinion will always be 16. Where the radius arm points is all in the c-bushings and wedges.
Weld it.
I gotcha. I don’t know where that line is supose to be for too much castor. If there even is one.You can always put degreed bushings upside down to reduce caster. As for tire wear I don’t find it to be a problem but my truck gets a lot of trail miles which wears them pretty flat.
I’m sure there is, and at some point it cuts into turning radius and the tires just lay down on their sides instead of creating turning action. Mine wound up at 11.5 because the axle was built for a full hydraulic steering system, my target for that is always 10-12 degrees having driven it that way for that last 12 years I have no issue with it. The one that I have that is 20, I have no idea what the the thought process was, I didn’t build the axle, just set the pinion angle and built thr suspension, caster came out there and decided to try it. It drives like it’s on rails, but get few enough miles that I can’t comment on tire wear, it might get driven 300 miles a year and far less than that the last 6 or 7, I built it over 20 years ago and if it has 10000 miles on it would be a high estimate.Yes sir. I appreciate all the help.
I gotcha. I don’t know where that line is supose to be for too much castor. If there even is one.