Broken Oil Sender Extension

[Lawndart]

Well, seems to be "broken off flush" month for me.
Just the other day... https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/broken-rear-axle-shaft.324641/#post-3555311

Today, I was changing my oil + filter when post duty, I noticed a drip/leak. After some investigation, it was coming from the oil sending unit extension at the block. I attempted to tighten it when it broke off

I'm guessing some sort of "easy-out" scenario, unless someone has a better idea.

This extension is aluminum - is that stock?? Or should it be steel?

 

[SteveL]

I run the ps-17 sender that eliminates the extension. That's on a couple 351w. It threads directly into the block with a metric socket

 

[Broncobowsher]

One of the few times where I feel an EZ-out is the right tool.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, two things, I don't know the depth of the hole for the oil pressure extension tube so be careful if you drill for the ez out. I have used square ez outs on softer metal like brass pipe, you may be able to just tap it in without drilling. I have also used Irwin-Hanson stubby splined ez outs. They don't go in as deep as the long spiral ez outs. Good luck

 

[Slowleak]

This extension is aluminum - is that stock?? Or should it be steel?

Aluminum is stock but you can find steel or brass ones. I got some brass fittings from Home Depot and fabricated one but Amazon has them…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6SYQJBW/?tag=classicbroncos-20

 

[Broncobowsher]

Hi, two things, I don't know the depth of the hole for the oil pressure extension tube so be careful if you drill for the ez out. I have used square ez outs on softer metal like brass pipe, you may be able to just tap it in without drilling. I have also used Irwin-Hanson stubby splined ez outs. They don't go in as deep as the long spiral ez outs. Good luck

The hole is deep, not an issue

 

[Steve83]

Definitely try to use straight square extractors on EVERYTHING - they don't expand what you're trying to remove as much as the spirals do, and they apply more torque without as much expansion.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23CF8/?tag=classicbroncos-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M235UA/?tag=classicbroncos-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M236VS/?tag=classicbroncos-20

All the originals I've seen & found are steel, but they're from later engines. This is what I buy when it's available:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H6ZSMG2/?tag=classicbroncos-20

 

[Lawndart]

Thanks everyone! I had to work today, so no progress.
There is an approx 3/16" hole in the extension and the piece still in the block. I am hoping to use that without drilling.
I'll try in the tomorrow AM and report.

 

[ntsqd]

Those have long bugged me, but yours is the first that I've seen actually fail as I thought that they might.

Avoid the spiral type e-z-outs, they just wedge whatever you're trying to remove even tighter. Square tapered or Splined tapered is the way to go.

If you take the filter back off one of the two holes goes to directly behind that hole. Compressed air blown in the appropriate oil filter hole will blow the chips out if you need to drill.

 

[Lawndart]

Thanks everyone!

Extraction - round one
It did not go well. The only extractors I could find locally where spiral. I started small and they would get a good bite, but eventually break loose. I stepped up in size a few times. Once it seemed it was coming out, but I think the extractors where just pulling (extruding) the aluminum out. I stopped and got the power steering pump out of the way to better assess.
The hole now is about 11/32" up from 3/16"

The aluminum seems to be fairly soft and crumbly and may I say, a bad idea.
I am starting to worry there is not enough material left to grab onto to extract the broken piece.

Thoughts on proceeding?

 

[mattyv87]

If you can carefully drill out the center with a bit similar to the minor diameter of the threads, without damaging the threads in the block, you may be able to then use an angled pick to back out what's left of the threads.

Like you said if the aluminum is crumbling, you may be able to pick little piece of it out with a pick. Of course be really careful not to get any chips into the block. If you have to drill the threads out go very slowly and pack the flits or the drill bit with grease. This should catch a lot of the chips. A left handed drill bit would definitely be ideal in this situation

 

[DirtDonk]

The aluminum ones definitely had a high failure rate. By “high“ I really mean just a few, but an unacceptable number at any level!
Later were steal as far as I know, but I have actually seen aluminum on some 80s trucks as well. Don’t remember the specific year.
My 71 was already steel, but it might’ve been replaced by a previous owner. Not sure how likely that is though, since it was only five years old when I bought it.
I’ve also seen some replaced with just metal round tube with threads on both ends and a fitting on the outside to accept the pressure sender.
First one I ever saw break, was one on my friends ‘72 Explorer in about ‘76. Can’t remember if it started leaking on its own, or he was removing it for some reason. But I guess that shows that either Ford was using whatever was available, steel and aluminum interchangeably, or mine had been replaced by then.

Sometimes the aluminum ones failed from being knocked around during some kind of work on the engine. Often it was when someone went to install a mechanical pressure gauge or replace the existing sender, and try to tighten it or remove it.
While the failure rate from just general use is pretty minimal, the failure rate from trying to turn it in one direction or the other was extremely high. Like 30% or more!
Steel ones just don’t suffer the same problem.
That’s why for a while we only sold steel ones. But then the suppliers went back to aluminum without telling anybody. We were trying to sell the stronger steel replacements, only to find out we were receiving aluminum ones in the new packages.
Not such a nice surprise!

 

[DirtDonk]

Even though we don’t see obvious corrosion in most cases, I wonder if “dissimilar metals“ has anything to do with the failures.
Or if it’s just aluminum relative softness.

 

[m_m70]

I have always thought using aluminum was a bad idea for that piece (my '70 is aluminum). It's a piece that's prone to leak which makes it a piece that's prone to be over-tightened. Add to that the smaller diameter coupled with the overall length and that most people just use an open end wrench at the far end which I assume more side pressure. Result.............el-snappo!

Thanks for posting the steel options from amazon....wanting to switch mine out for a while now but never at the top of the list

 

[m_m70]

Oh and I would try a reamer. I have better luck with a reamer following the hole.

 

[mattyv87]

I have always thought using aluminum was a bad idea for that piece (my '70 is aluminum). It's a piece that's prone to leak which makes it a piece that's prone to be over-tightened. Add to that the smaller diameter coupled with the overall length and that most people just use an open end wrench at the far end which I assume more side pressure. Result.............el-snappo!

Thanks for posting the steel options from amazon....wanting to switch mine out for a while now but never at the top of the list

I always assumed the thought process was that it was soft so that IF it does get hot by something that it snaps instead of potentially damaging the block.

 

[m_m70]

I always assumed the thought process was that it was soft so that IF it does get hot by something that it snaps instead of potentially damaging the block.

That could very well be!

 

[Double66]

Have you tried using a reverse drill bit to see if it will catch what's left of the piece?

 

[Ether]

I run the ps-17 sender that eliminates the extension. That's on a couple 351w. It threads directly into the block with a metric socket

Does that one send the right kind of signal for the original oil pressure gauge?

 

[SteveL]

Yes. If they give you the wrong one for an idiot light it pegs the gauge. I've been using em for years.. no more leaking extension tubes. John at peerless auto parts in Torrance ca turned me on to em years ago. He said whatever the original application was is discontinued so they're hard to find now. I keep a couple on the shelf.