Help needed wiring up reworked Explorer harness into the stock wiring harness. Thank you

[76Bronko]

1. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-blue just after the ignition switch. You can remove the remainder of that circuit from your harness, the Explorer harness handles your NSS.

2. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-green just after the ignition switch. If you have resistor wire this must connect before the resistor so that the EFI gets a full 12v.

3. If you have a later harness where the ALT plug is present then you only need to add the charge post wiring. Use 6awg and a 175a megafuse. If you have an early harness without the ALT plug then follow Doug's directions above.

4. No. The Explorer alternator is internally regulated.

5. You can. But I would keep the coil wire to trigger the EFI only. That way any sort of short from anything else on that circuit won't leave you stranded. I believe Painless #914 (green/red) is a better choice to provide power to your lights and switches (except reverse lights). If your harness has the ALT plug then the green/red coming in under the dash connects to #914, optionally you can wire in a warning light between the two.

My documentation shows Painless #956 for reverse lights.

I have an ALT plug, it is part of your reworked explorer harness. I don't have any of the original bronco alternator or voltage regulator wiring. The explorer reworked harness ALT plug only has two wires going to the plug/ voltage regulator, a green with red and a larger yellow with white. Do I only need to add the charge post wiring now ( top alternator post to the +battery)? I have read a few posts and learned to disconnect the ahmmeter and connect it post to post. I am researching where to get a voltmeter gauge to replace the ahmmeter. Thank you for your time.

Mel

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, I think 904Bronco mentioned it previously, but you only need the two wires on an Explorer 4G alternator.
The three wires, including the white with black stripe stator wire, were only used up to the 3G series. The 4G doesn’t use one, and further generations do not use it as far as I know.
The explorer alternator is a 4G, but utilizes the same connector, but with only two positions used instead of the previous three.

While you’re getting ready to convert the ammeter to a voltmeter, you can always use a temporary one, either inserted into the cigarette lighter, or attached to the dash temporarily.

 

[76Bronko]

I'm running one of EFI Guy's reworked harnesses and can lend a little assistance. I have EGR and EVP delete. I have two engine temp sensors, the Explorer ECT screwed into the stock location as above close to the valve cover and the Bronco Temperature gauge in a T-fitting on the heater hose line by the coolant thermostat housing. I also have two oil pressure sensors, the Explorer sensor for the ECU and the Bronco Oil Pressure gauge. Oil pressure sensors are on the drivers side of the engine block above the oil filter.

Thank you for the response. I have the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors installed and wired up to the explorer harness now. Trying to figure out the 4G alternator wiring now. Did you have to do anything to your EFI guy reworked harness as far as the alternator is concerned, other than add the 6gauge wire from the alternator to the B+ terminal on the solenoid, with a 175amp fuse? What did you do with the ammeter wiring...did you happen to replace it with a voltmeter? Thank you. Mel

 

[76Bronko]

Sanity check, please.

I have spliced red with green wire 16, marked "A" in the pics, from my +12V in run from the ignition switch to my red wire on the EFI guy explorer reworked harness (resistor has been removed). I have spliced red with blue wire 32, marked "B" in the pics from my +12V in start from the ignition switch to my pink wire on the EFI guy explorer reworked harness. Can anyone tell me if this is correct so far please?

 

[76Bronko]

Also, as far as the alternator goes, the EFI guy reworked explorer harness has a plug that goes to the voltage regulator of the alternator. There is one Green with red wire and one yellow with white wire coming out of the voltage regulator. I don't know where they go, as far as where they terminate at, and if I need to do anything else to the two wires for the reworked explorer harness and the stock wiring to work together. Without changing anything to how my ALT plug is now, if I add a 6 gauge charging wire (with 175Amp megafuse) from the alternator to the B+ side of the solenoid, is that then good to go?

Also, do I need to do anything to the ammeter wiring under the dashboard? Thank you! Mel

 

[DirtDonk]

Depends…
Is it running only to the pink? Or does some of it still run to the starter relay?

I have spliced red with blue wire 32, marked "B" in the pics from my +12V in start from the ignition switch to my pink wire on the EFI guy explorer reworked harness. Can anyone tell me if this is correct so far please?

 

[DirtDonk]

There is one Green with red wire and one yellow with white wire coming out of the voltage regulator. I don't know where they go, as far as where they terminate at, and if I need to do anything else to the two wires for the reworked explorer harness and the stock wiring to work together.

This is what we discussed previously I think
Find the other ends of those two wires in the new harness. Find your old wires at the old voltage regulator location. Connect them together.
They are the same basic colors, so should be easy to determine which goes to which. Yellow goes to yellow with white, green with red goes to green with red.
The yellow wire is essentially connected to the battery, and shows full battery voltage at all times. This is the voltage sensing wire.
The green with red stripe wire comes directly from the ignition switch and is powered in the ON position only.

Without changing anything to how my ALT plug is now, if I add a 6 gauge charging wire (with 175Amp megafuse) from the alternator to the B+ side of the solenoid, is that then good to go?

Yes. Assuming you get the yellow and green with red wires sorted out at the other end.

Also, do I need to do anything to the ammeter wiring under the dashboard?

No. In fact, leave it alone.
Under the hood, however, you do need to
The black, or black with yellow wire under the hood is in two pieces. One is the old one to the Alternator, and one is the current one to the battery side of the starter relay.
The one to the starter relay stays as is, and the one that used to be on the Alternator needs to be dealt with.

The typical ways of doing this are:
1. You can reroute it back over to the same battery side of the starter relay.
2. You can cut it off anywhere that seems convenient, and tape/cover the end to keep it from ever shorting out on any metal. Remember, this wire is always connected to the battery at its other end, so can never be allowed to touch any metal. Or other wires.
3. One very useful way to deal with this, is to get a separate power distribution stud/block, mount it in a convenient location and connect the old alternator charge wire to it.
This can then be used to power other accessories.

 

[76Bronko]

The green with red wire and the yellow with white wire run up the ALT plug wire and terminate in the fuse box. Only EFI guy knows where they go lol....I can't find them after there. Of the 14 wires that go under the dashboard, only one of them is green with red, and it is marked "alternator warning light ground. Other side of bulb is hot in run." And there is no yellow with white wire anywhere that I can find. I haven't been able to find either ALT plug wire at the C130 connector sides either or at the PCM. I will attach a rough sketch of the wiring harness. If I could find the ends of them, I could use a voltmeter to ensure I have continuity, but I haven't been able to. I am pretty clueless as to where they are going or if they end up being a different color...... To make matters worse, I don't have the old voltage regulator, so I can't identify the original wiring and make the two meet......Thank you for the help

 

[DirtDonk]

It’s very probable then that you don’t need to do anything with the yellow wire. It is getting its battery power from somewhere in the fuse box.
That should be perfectly acceptable.

The wording on the green wire seems to be confusing.
What exactly does it say out of the alternator plug? The same?
It sounds like you don’t need to use the old wire. The green with red stripe wire under the dash theoretically goes to the ignition switch where the old green with red wire is. Or used to be.
Calling it a ground seems misleading to those of us that don’t understand all the theory, but it’s very likely that somewhere in the regulator it is grounding?
In theory, it has only one function. To excite the regulator and start the charging process for the engine is running.
Are you going to install a working indicator light in the dash? Or simply use a voltmeter?
If using a light, that gets into a whole ‘nother subject.
Simply relying on a voltmeter for monitoring duties, just connect the green with red wire under the dash to the green with red wire coming out of the ignition switch.

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, to you or Garry, why does a fuse panel need a ground? Are there relays inside as well?
Or is it simply a convenient pass-through route to get from the engine-side ground to the battery/body?

 

[76Bronko]

Also, to you or Garry, why does a fuse panel need a ground? Are there relays inside as well?
Or is it simply a convenient pass-through route to get from the engine-side ground to the battery/body?

Yes there are I think three or four relays in there.....I'm at work and can't take a look but I think the relays are for the fuel pump, starter, O2 sensors, and maybe one more. And the plan for now is to use a voltmeter, once I find one. Thanks again

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure about the EFI Guy fuse setup, but typical relays are for fuel pump, O2, ECM power, and occasionally a/c.
Could be starter too, but used in conjunction with the original starter relay on the fender.

Can’t wait to see it all together!
Actually, pretty excited just to hear it crank!

 

[904Bronco]

Not sure about the EFI Guy fuse setup, but typical relays are for fuel pump, O2, ECM power, and occasionally a/c.
Could be starter too, but used in conjunction with the original starter relay on the fender.

Can’t wait to see it all together!
Actually, pretty excited just to hear it crank!

Go back and look at thread #10...

 

[EFI Guy]

You will need to wire the charge post to a 175a Megafuse and then connect the other end to B+.
You don't need to worry about the yellow/white. It's taken care of for you in the fusebox.
The green/red usually comes in under the dash with the rest of the wires. You can connect this to the original green/red under the dash.
Optionally, you can connect this to a warning lamp. This wire will ground the warning lamp, you need to provide ignition hot (preferably green/red) to the other side of this bulb. This makes for a great visual indicator since your Ammeter must be abandoned.

 

[fordguy]

1. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-blue just after the ignition switch. You can remove the remainder of that circuit from your harness, the Explorer harness handles your NSS.

2. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-green just after the ignition switch. If you have resistor wire this must connect before the resistor so that the EFI gets a full 12v.

3. If you have a later harness where the ALT plug is present then you only need to add the charge post wiring. Use 6awg and a 175a megafuse. If you have an early harness without the ALT plug then follow Doug's directions above.

4. No. The Explorer alternator is internally regulated.

5. You can. But I would keep the coil wire to trigger the EFI only. That way any sort of short from anything else on that circuit won't leave you stranded. I believe Painless #914 (green/red) is a better choice to provide power to your lights and switches (except reverse lights). If your harness has the ALT plug then the green/red coming in under the dash connects to #914, optionally you can wire in a warning light between the two.

My documentation shows Painless #956 for reverse lights.

I confirmed with Garry and terminated the pink wire to switch instead of red blue and removed the remainder including the connector we installed on the s side of relay. There is a wire that goes there instead from Gary’s harness . I ran my engine stand alone with Garry’s harness before putting body back on frame. The starter is now working with the key switch. I only have one wire on the s terminal.