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Yea, just that the pin location on a 5.315 has a .912 pin....and like I said it mostly comes down to dollars....

John: It's just Parts Already have the block, cam, lifters, dual roller timing chain, oil pump ect.... with a forged stock crank. So I can take the .225 over H Beam rods (which have 7/16 ARP Bolts) and get a 5.315 stroke, so it's just the bore that determines the final size. Forged Pistons...

I have found a std bore NOS roller block and a set of H beam rods @ .225 over stock with .912 pin I have found one company that sells the pistons for this stroker (standard crank), think it produces a 327 standard bore or 331 @.30 over bore..... I plan on keeping it standard bore. Anyone...

Thanks to all thought it would work, just wanted to make sure... Nick

Can a Flat tappet cam be used in the roller block (302)? Thanks, Nick

Many options for .225 rods I found many vendors that sell the .225 over rods, just did not know what the build was/is... Now I know....Thanks to all, Nick

Thought I mentioned it, but they are .912 pins so it takes the 3.25 stroke with the 5.315 rods which = 331 Nick

Found it! 3.25 crank with the 5.315 rods =331 stroker

I can't find a combo Unless my math is off these rods are 5.315 inches in length and I don't see a combo that uses that length rod??? Thanks, Nick

Not a real "Ford Guy" but have built a lot of engines, and have a chance to buy a set of ford 302 rods (standard pin and crank size) that are .225 longer than stock. Is there a crank, rod, piston combo that will produce a stroker with that length rod(s) in a 302 block? Thanks, Nick

I'm interested but can't this be done without replacing the knuckles? Thanks, Nick

Bulkhead? I'm interested in the bulkhead, would you sell and ship? Thanks, Nick

http://www.universaltire.com/truck-and-military/truck.html Take a look..... Nick

HP or Engine Life On our dyno runs, up to the point of Pre - Detonation (ABNORMAL COMBUSTION), the higher temp the higher the HP output HOWEVER for engine life the water output (out of the rad) temp should be around 170-180 deg F. This puts the engine oil temp on avg 10 deg F higher...

Changed to BCB W/Winch Went with progressive 2.5 on the front of my LUBR new springs from a swap meet so I won't say whose name was on them...I have winch, AC, dual batteries.... The progressives were junk, set lower in the front, sag on the left side...Picked up a set of Chucks 2.5 w/winch...

badmuttstang Are you saying that you have full width axles? I'm also trying to make a decision on flares and I want my tires about even with the edge of the flares.... Thanks, Nick

Yea put a new filter on it... If you did not break an oil pres line or something then it's most likely the oil filter

Would also work on deals for tire/wheel pgk 16-17" for a LUBR

If you want another point of view... http://www.automedia.com/Inspect,_Replace_and_Repack_Wheel_Bearings/ccr20050201wb/1 The Too Much to Bear section gives the same account...

Then one has to ask? How did I know the bearing was going to be "welded" to the spindle before he posted a picture and said it was?