Search results

Hehr Power was the only name used in construction for most of the 70-90's. First three floors of the CN Tower done with one we sold.

It is a large body 1G for sure. It will be 70-100amps, decent bottom end output. May have been built bigger than that though as it is in a chrome case. Could be a real pos too. 3G would be a nice upgrade.

No, the mounting holes are closer together on the expoloer mount 4G. Only have to change two wires, and it is a straight change, for the 4G plug.

The STA post is AC voltage output.

3,4, and 6G should use an LED. Or can use anyway. An LED and pigtail is like $5 from NAPA. Just power has to come from a keyed source, so that it turns on and off with the key.

Are you using it to weld with? I think we actually have a Hehr Power unit around the shop some where.

I dont recall seeing fusible links in production vehicles until at least the 80's. They are a cheap way of fusing a system, and definitely not something to be considered the best way. As Steve mentioned, a mega fuse is a far better choice. Though personally, I would never fuse the alternator...

I havent heard of a buzz from a regulator in a long time. Do you have an old mechanical regulator? Was the new one fairly heavy? Or very light weight?

Very good point, and when this happens you will damage the alternator. Though it is not the way it is wired stock, you should have a wire going directly from the alternator's output post to the positive on the battery. On a stock alternator, you can do this with a 10ga wire and be overkill.

Or a larger properly sized fuse. Not a big fan of fusable links.

I think the amp meter is picking up magnet fields, but I could be wrong. A leaking diode, noise suppressor is more cutting off the spikes in the AC generated in the stator windings, and turning into DC so it can be stored in the battery, or used while the vehicle is running.

If it shorts, the lead to it will become a fusable link whether it wants to or not.

Clean your grounds until it is 0.2 volts on the multimeter for grounds, and 0.3 for positive runs. Industry stanard is 0.5 total. Make sure the yellow wire has full battery voltage too, it is needed to charge.

Do you have a spare known good battery you could put in there just for fun? Your sympthoms could be caused by a bad battery, and it will always check out fine with most tests. Without some really great test equipment and knowledge, the easiest test is to just replace the battery with a good one...

Yes, if it is a battery charger.

Extending the vents, is that a reference to your differential vents? If not, they really need to be extended. You will only need a snorkel if you are being really aggressive, if you wade into the water and keep it normal, you should be fine. We always have used KN's though, just in case you suck...

Can you take a picture of the wire you are removing? Or describe which terminal it goes to, and if there are any other wires on the terminal.

Need to trace it to figure out exactly where it is going.

It wont turn over, i.e. it makes no noises, no attmepts at spinning, absolutely nothing?

Not sure about how you are unplugging it, or if you are dealing with stock alternators. I will assume stock alternators. 1.) If unplugging it means taking the plug off the regulator on the fender/firewall then: it could be the wiring, but it is way more likely it is the regulator, and i would...