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There are some wires in the Explorer harness that need to be brought in to the cab (ignition switch, brake input, OBD2 port, inertia switch, etc..). Most people pass them through the firewall with a grommet. Wyflyer went a step above and used a 30 pin pass through connector on his. I assume he...

1-Crank sensor 2- Engine coolant temp 3-8 coil packs 4-Cam sensor 5-Octane Adjust 6-Maf-There is a jumper harness between this plug and the MAf. 7-Intake Air Temp 9- Idle Air Control 10- Throttle Position sensor

You can use the 5th relay slot however you like. I like to add a relay to the start circuit on the 98 and later with 4r70w (they have smaller start circuit wiring). They will trigger a fender mounted solenoid just fine, but I would not trigger a starter mounted solenoid with the factory start...

Mostly correct. You wouldn't want to power 85 (or 86) off of the same fuse as 30 which is battery power, 85 (or 86) should be hot with ignition only. You never want to power a circuit that the PCM grounds when the key is off, it can burn stuff up. This rule also applies to the check engine light...

You feed power to the 4 relays from the fuse panel. If you use a larger fuse panel you can feed the keep alive memory/OBD2 port and the yellow/white alternator wire with their own fuses as well.

Just looking to run 8 rib superchargers with Explorer front dress. I've got all of the other pulleys figured out except for the crank pulley.

So this is off topic, but this thread got me thinking... Paul, do you guys make the Explorer pulley in-house? If so, would it be remotely possible to make one with 8 ribs instead of 6?

I've used that same box before on a few builds, that's cheap! I'm happy with it, but I don't like the fuses aren't bussed. Do not use the factory start signal wiring to go directly to the starter mounted solenoid! The draw is too much, especially on the 98 and later harnesses. Either use the...

Yes, there is no load on that circuit so it's going to be less than an amp. Which means just about any switch would work. You could even get fancy and use a double pole switch to also trigger the STI input. Then one switch would trigger neutral and put it into self-test mode. Just hit the switch...

If the Ranger you are working with is a similar year, it might be as simple as just leaving the wires alone in the engine harness, or possibly swapping some pins in the C115. If you are building a standalone harness and you want the PCM in control of the compressor you need to add a relay for...

Yes, if pin 30 is blank your PCM thinks you're in drive. You will need a way to ground it if you ever want to do a KOER test though. Do not touch the screw! It's not an idle screw, it's a stop screw.

Forgive my lazy copy/paste job, I added a little to it: There is no reason I can think of to run 12+ to pin 30 while cranking. I think the only reason it was done that way is so that the ground signal goes away during crank. It doesn't tell the PCM to enter crank mode. Crank mode is determined...

With a MT just run pin 30 straight to ground.

You'll lose the trigger wheel and crank sensor mount needed for the EFI if you switch to Mustang front dress. There are aftermarket wheels that could make it work, but it would still require very precise fabwork to get the timing correct. In your situation, I would look at cutting the lower half...

Widebands went the way that everything else is going these days. The absolute best was discontinued and an inferior product replaced it. The best consumer grade wideband was the NTK #91101. It was replaced with the 96604, which is ok I guess, just an average wideband. Ballenger somehow worked...

Looking good! You sure you don't wanna build another grill?

It looks like a Windstar to me, but they are probably used in multiple vehicles.

Oh boy, here comes my completely unbiased opinion.;) I think carburetors (and even distributors) are sort of like drum brakes. They work ok for their intended purpose. But, once you make the plunge and upgrade, you'll never want to go back. The only reason I'd ever run a carb or a distributor...

If you want something custom, you might check here as well: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273634 Which reminds me, I need to get a hold of him.

For the 99-01 systems, I recommend either adapting the entire fuel pump/regulator assembly to your tank. Or, adding just the regulator to one of the aftermarket EFI tank offerings. In tank pumps suck to replace, but they have a much higher life expectancy IMHO. If you are dead set against an...