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The coolant sensor near the #5 injector is for your gauge. The one in the heater pipe is for the PCM.

Are you sure? The only way to really test funtionality if reporting has been disabled is to wire in a light to the circuits mentioned and watch to see if it ever operates going down the road.

I wasn't taking a dig, I think you did a great job of explaining it. It shows that you have a better concept of the system than some of the "certified" techs that I've worked with over the years. The terminology even changes with the same manufacturer. An example is some years you have a purge...

In later Explorers, the VSS in the rear diff sends the signal to the ABS controller. The ABS controller then converts that signal to the standard 8k PPM and sends it to the PCM, cruise control, and the speedometer.

PCM pin# 56 (green/black) will be your ground "control" side of the solenoid. Get your ignition hot power from pin # 36 (blue/orange) of the C115 connector. I have never shut off the ability for the simple single purge valve to work. But I can't speak for anyone else. Broncobowsher is 99%...

I'm just gonna leave this here.

Upstream O2 sensors are green for 96-98. They are grey for 99-01. I label them B1PS and B2DS for Bank 1 passenger side and Bank 2 driver side. They will come out of the rear of the engine harness. Rear O2s sensors are blue for all years and labeled with Bank number and S2 indicating sensor 2...

As said, the PCM grounds the bulb. It's very important that power to the bulb is ignition hot only. If it is powered when the PCM is not it can damage the PCM. This is true for any circuit that the PCM grounds.

I'm not much help here because I've spent very little time messing with the DD clusters. Lots of people run them and they just seem to work with very little setup. I also can't really make out your screen shots on my phone. But, I can tell you with certainty that the Explorer protocol is...

I would start by checking for codes. You could be stuck in a limp mode. Fuel pressure would be high on my list of things to check as well. Does this have a catalytic converter? When they plug it often feels like a speed limit that you just can't get past.

This is incorrect. I still rework harnesses and PCM's. I do limit what I'm willing to do as far as programming goes to make sure I don't violate federal regulations, but things like PATS deletes and gear calibrations are perfectly fine. On the performance side of things, it's better to just...

I would just use a mirror to look into the connector at the trans and count the pins. That will tell you what year range it is, then look at the colors on your plug.

You need to look at the solenoid connector now. There is a diagram for it where you found my range sensor diagram. The transmission may be 98 or later which has a different pinout. Repinning that connector may be all that you need to do.

You definitely have a mismatch, 96 PCM, 97 range sensor. Check your PCM connector, if it has wires in 3, 49, and 50 then just using a 97 computer will solve your problem. Odds are pretty good that I could flash that computer to 97 and that would also work. 96 and 97 share the same hardware code...

Does the plug for your range sensor match what is shown in the picture, as in 12 pins and rectangular? SLL4 (which matches the part number you gave) Uses an 8-pin oval-shaped range sensor, not the 12-pin pictured. The resistance values are different between the two and the 12 pin has additional...

We need to know the PCM code for this one, the change happened in early 97. You could be dealing with one simple circuit, or 5.

Funny you mention it, I just picked up a small batch the other day that I believe are already "Viper modded". I haven't had a chance to look at them yet. You want to use the same year Windstar synchro and sensor as your Explorer donor. The split happened in the same year for both models.

Interesting. I had someone tell me that their state wouldn't allow an engine from a 4-door vehicle in a 2-door vehicle, but I can't remember what state it was and I bet that just talking to a different inspector would get you by. I have had 2 in CO and 1 in CA sail right through on the first...

In my opinion, the best consumer-grade wideband on the market is Ballenger Motorsports AFR 500. It's based on the old NTK wideband but has some upgrades. However, what I usually recommend for tuning EFI is Innovate products, like the MTX-L. The reason for this is that they work with tuning...

We had something similar on a 911 autocross car but it was made by the big red ignition parts company. It was a serial port connection, not even USB. It was incredibly easy to tune, and worked great for 2 seasons but then it died suddenly and that car got fuel injected after that. Definitely...