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I never liked the idea of hose running the entire length of the frame. I use Summit's coil of aluminum hardline to run from front to back and flare it to AN. Then a short section of hose to the pump and rail. The aluminum hardline is very easy to work with.

I know of a bunch of people running them with the Sag bracket, but I can't think of anyone running them with A/C as well.

Here ya go. Sorry for the bad audio. Also, this video was in the very early stages. I believe they now come with mounting rings installed and such.

I've been working on an interesting similar project. It's a 200-I6 with an aluminum head, SEFI, EDIS, 4R70W, and an Eaton M90 Supercharger. All ran off of a Ford PCM. No idea what it will make for power but it should be interesting.

You will need to wire the charge post to a 175a Megafuse and then connect the other end to B+. You don't need to worry about the yellow/white. It's taken care of for you in the fusebox. The green/red usually comes in under the dash with the rest of the wires. You can connect this to the original...

I retired from swinging wrenches on German cars. I'm still doing the EFI Guy thing. My email is to the left, or call 720-58TUNEZ.

1. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-blue just after the ignition switch. You can remove the remainder of that circuit from your harness, the Explorer harness handles your NSS. 2. Connect to the ignition switch or to the red-green just after the ignition switch. If you have resistor...

No matter which style of fusebox you have it should be mounted somewhere near the fender-mounted solenoid and your power feed should connect to the battery side of the solenoid. This is as close you can get to connecting straight to the battery without having to worry about the corrosion seeping...

I would do a KOER test while your problem is present. By this I mean do not shut off the key when it acts weird, test it right then. My first instinct would be crud in the tank causing a restriction and turning off releases it, but if pressure is good that is ruled out. So if it's in some sort...

I'm not saying you are wrong, there is definitely some truth there, but it's far less of a problem than you would think. One of the advantages of age is predating things like lead-free solder and soy-based, biodegradable wire insulation. I would argue that the wire used is better than what can...

I modified my JB fab D20 shifters to work with that Atlas. I'm not going to say that it's butter smooth, but it doesn't seem to have any issues shifting now. However I've put zero miles on it at this point.

Take the C115 numbers with a grain of salt. They are not always 100% accurate. That is the reason I list PCM Pin numbers, it only takes a second to trace a wire from the C115 back to the PCM if you are ever in doubt.

Yup. I don't think I ever knew your exact cam specs but in general the lumpier the cam the harder it is to make it idle. Often you can increase idle speed and tune to make it happy. In extreme cases, you can force open loop at idle and tune it with a vacuum gauge. That means no o2 feedback to...

I've had a couple of people claim to make money on the swap by the time they were done parting out their donor Explorer. Obviously, not everyone has the time or space to do that though. You could always DIY the tuning with a little bit of remote "consulting". Assuming you have pretty decent...

This link will help you check your wiring. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/explorer-obd2-harness-re-work.257251/post-3178461 That code does not immediately mean that the o2 sensor or wiring is bad. It just means that the o2 sensor is not switching past the .5 volt threshold. If you...

Don't forget the inertia switch and pigtail. With 2 programmed keys, you are able to program more yourself without and fancy scantools. When you only have one you'll need a higher end scantool to add a key. Just remember PATS will only stop the amateur guy attempting to hotwire it. Anyone...

Now that I have retired from the mechanic life I no longer have access to those extra diagrams. I never saw the point in saving them because I would bet that less than 10% of the wires going through those 3 connectors are needed to make it run. There are so many extra circuits going through...

An emulator would be something that overrides the factory ROM in the PCM and allows changes on the fly. This is what the Quarterhorse and Tweecer RT do and is what enables someone like me to remote in and provide "consulting" to people that want to tune their own rigs. The hardware in the PCM...

Your 40 psi is fine. If we're splitting hairs the actual spec is 39.15 psi delta. Don't discount the plug wire with a burnt end. I just replaced one that didn't look that bad yesterday but it solved the misfire under load.

That looks fantastic! I certainly appreciate the amount of time that went into that. I designed one to hold my fuses and relays with a snap on lid. It's a much simpler design than your work of art. I struggled with the CAD software and had The EFI Gal print it for me. This was printed with...