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The disease did get me! I ran disk/Drum for 20 years, the last 6-7 with a hydroboost unit. The brakes went from adequate to really good with the hydroboost, but for some reason I still felt like I could get better braking with disk/disk. I installed the Explorer rear brakes. Got the brake assy...

You do know you can "clock" the alternator housing to put stuff where you need it?

?The butyl tape is an idea. I had thought of using something like self-fusing electrical tape. https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-insulating-tape/=15hxf2q

Thanks guys! Got a couple good suggestion on making the holes. So there's no need to "finish" the hole, other than primer and paint? I guess the holes are just like any other edge of the fiberglass... Hmm... seems I was overthinking things... again...

Yes, planned on fitting these up before doing anything, including drilling holes! Got the die grinder. What type bit did you use?

Thanks bmc69. Was thinking I'd seen something like this before. I'll add this to my McMaster order...

I just picked up a pair of never used fiberglass fenders as another tentative step towards actually repainting my Bronco. These fenders are of unknown origin and manufacture, not that this makes too much difference. These fenders have indentations molded into them, where the bolt holes go. In...

Wiring for the gauges is pretty simple. The gauges (water temp, oil press, and fuel level) are powered from an Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) that mounts on the back of the gauge cluster. So the wiring is from the IVR to the gauges (daisy-chained), from the individual gauge to the sending...

I have absolutely no experience doing this, but I'm going to!!! I'm pretty sure I'm going to try Bronco Designs fiberglass door skins. I haven't seen anyone on here who's tried them, but I think I can manage to get the old door skins off, and glue on the fiberglass ones, without screwing up too bad.

Depends on whether you're using a crush sleeve or solid spacer for pinion preload. If using a crush sleeve you torque until the proper preload is achieved. If a solid spacer is used, then you're correct. Suggested torque values vary, but are typically between 175 and 220 foot lbs.

My Bronco's not really pretty enough for the Snotsdale crowd. But I will probably come anyway!!8-) Maybe I'll find a Ferrari to use as a RTI ramp!!

I bought an ATK 351W high performance long block (HP09) from them a couple years ago. $3k delivered to my driveway. It's been fine and can't beat the warranty. The only thing I wasn't completely pleased with is they are not very open about the specifics of the build. But, the engine runs great...

Doesn't hurt the driveshaft it's self, but you can collapse the caps on the u-joint and destroy the needle bearings. Denny's Driveshaft site state 14-17 foot lbs. I don't use a torque wrench. I tighten the nuts with just my little finger on the wrench. I also use blue Locktite on the nuts.

Does no one think this may be an intake manifold leak? You need to find out (then let us know) exactly where the external leak starts.

Ford range is ~73ohms empty to ~10 ohms full. Lots of time the gauge will specify "Ford" range.

Pretty much anything that says it will stand up to oil and gas. I always seem to wind up using #2 Permatex for just about everything, including pipe threads.

The sending unit is just a variable resistor. ~70 ohms empty to ~10 ohms full. Use an ohm meter to check the resistance across the connections at the sending unit.

Wow!!! Ebay guy wants $100, Tallon Hydraulics wants $55. Tough choice just to avoid Tallon Hydraulics! I made mine in 2 hours in my garage... OK, I'm worth $50/hr!!!

FWIW, I installed a "Sport" cage 18 years ago. Got it from Protofab. Just up the road in Cordes Lakes. I never intended to have a back seat, so it's been more than sufficient. Luckily I've never had to try it out. But lately, I've been thinking of having a local fabricator extend the cage to...

I've gotten them for free.