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4x4x2 Snafu

1strodeo

Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,596
Loc.
Wisconsin
Hello All, I have a steering box from a 78 F150 4x4 and I swapped in the worm gear assembly from a 2wd box per the WCB Rockcrawler instructions. Just did a straight swap no seals were changed. After the swap the input shaft will not turn.

Worm assy was moving freely before sector shaft install. I noticed while the sector shaft was out the adjusting screw was loose, which I’m guessing it should be. Sector shaft installed easily until the last 1/4-3/8” so I used the 2 bolts to get it in the rest of the way. I turned each bolt about a 1/4 turn at a time and went in easily except maybe the last complete turn of each bolt required more torque. I have NOT torqued the sector shaft bolts to spec, just snug.

I then popped the adjusting nut loose without much trouble, but the adjusting screw itself was hard to get loose. I had to use a large flathead and channel locks on the handle just to get it loose.

Should I pull the sector shaft back out an inch or so and back out the adjusting screw? Really didn’t want to mess with that screw but it’s probably difficult to avoid with this swap. Any tips appreciated thanks.

Tag in pics is from worm gear donor box
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Pretty sure you can't NOT mess with the screw. It's how you set the preload on any box and when you're changing parts I'm pretty sure you're not often going to run into it keeping it's adjustment.

As you noted by not being able to push it in all the way, it's bound up. Steve83 has some Ford assembly and adjustment instructions on his SuperMotors pages I believe, and maybe PM Viper who's worked on a lot of boxes in recent years.
Never done one myself, so can't quote chapter and verse for you.

Good luck.

Paul
 

Teal68

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Inlet Beach
I have only done 2 of them, and I had to loosen the adjusting screw to assemble and then adjust.
 
OP
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1strodeo

1strodeo

Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,596
Loc.
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Thanks guys, that's what I ended up doing yesterday, I backed out the sector shaft until the input shaft turned freely, then adjusted the screw as I reinstalled the shaft, simple!

Yes I've visited Steve83's page a couple times, as well as my manuals, looks like i need to acquire an in-lb torque wrench. I've also read that people have adjusted the screw until there's just a little tension when passing center. This is the main reason for my post: I know that the steering box and adjustment screw in particular are nothing to play around with, so I want to make sure I'm doing it right. thanks again
 

Teal68

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Mar 28, 2013
Messages
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Inlet Beach
I've always adjusted them until it feels notchy at the center and then back it off until the notchy feeling goes away. This is with the front tires/wheels off the ground. I don't know if that's a good idea or not, but it has worked for me for many years. No failed boxes to date. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

That said, aside from the torque wrench method I'd love to hear how others have done it.
 
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1strodeo

1strodeo

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My understanding is that you want SOME resistance at center, otherwise you will have wandering when going straight down the road.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,122
snip from manual

Adjustment In Vehicle
Adjust total over center position load,
to eliminate excessive lash between the
sector and rack teeth as follows. This is
the only adjustment required.
1. Disconnect the Pitman arm from the
sector shaft using Tool 64P-3590-F.
2. Disconnect the fluid return line at
the reservoir and cap the reservoir
return line pipe.
3. Place the end of the return line in a
clean container and turn the steering
wheel from left to right several times
to discharge the fluid from the gear.
4. Turn the steering wheel to 45 degrees
from the left stop.
5. Attach an in-lb. torque wrench to the
steering wheel nut and determine the
torque required to rotate the shaft
FIG. 1 Ford Integral Power Steering Gear F-100—F-350 and Bronco
FIG. 2 Adjusting Mesh Load

slowly approximately one-eight turn
from the 45 degree position.
6. Turn the steering gear back to center
and determine the torque required
to rotate the shaft back and forth
across the center position. Loosen
the adjuster nut and turn the adjuster
screw (Fig. 2) until the reading is 11
to 12 in-lb greater than the torque at
45 degrees from the stop. Hold the
screw in place, and tighten the lock
nut.
7. Re-check torque readings and
replace the Pitman arm and steering
wheel hub cover.
8. Connect the fluid return line to the
reservoir and fill the reservoir to
specification (Part 13-01). Adjust belt
tension, if necessary. Do not pry
against the reservoir to obtain
proper belt load. Pressure may
deform the reservoir and cause it
to leak.
 
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1strodeo

1strodeo

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thanks brother, sounds a lot easier than Chiton's steps 4 & 5;

4. Turn the gear 1/2 turn off center (either direction). Using a 24 in. lb torque wrench on the steering wheel nut, determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly through a 20 degree arc.

5. Turn the gear back to center and repeating the method of reading torque as in Step 4, above; loosen the adjuster lock nut, turn the screw with a 7/32 in. allen wrench until the reading is equal to 6 in. lbs in excess of the figure determined in Step 4 and retighten the locknut while holding the screw in place.

Since the fluid is discharged before adjustment I'm thinking I can do this the same way on the bench, yes?
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
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Apr 27, 2017
Messages
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Loc.
Southeast Ohio
Hey Jeff, I did mine on the bench with good results. I turned in the screw in while turning the steering shaft back and forth until I had a small amount of resistance at the center point. The steering on the Bronco works very well.
 
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1strodeo

1strodeo

Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,596
Loc.
Wisconsin
Finally got around to installing this setup, along with a hydroboost setup I got from another member a while back. Working well except for a pretty good leak coming from the adjusting nut of the box. I replaced the nylock nut and it seemed to fix the problem for a few drives, but now it's leaking again. I read somewhere that someone used a copper washer under the nut. That may be my next fix action unless you guys have other ideas?

As mentioned early in this thread I did not replace any seals during the 4x4x2 build, but I don't think there is a seal under the adjusting nut. Also of note I added a new Delphi HD pump from WH but I did not install a cooler into the PS/HB system...yet. thanks -jeff
 

Jedeka

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
240
I put together a 4x4x2 box, but never had it on the Bronco. I took it apart to put new seals in and paint the box. My adjuster bolt it tight. What is the best way to free it up?
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
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Dec 26, 2010
Messages
1,413
Loc.
Polk County, Missouri
Check out step 23 and 24 of the pdf below. That top lash adjusting nut can use a bit of silicone, but ONLY in that dept. ANd you really need the hollow ratchet set up to di it right.

I stood there and had the guy show me and then I got to do the lash adjustment. Yes it is all in the "feel". With that guy standing there I figured it out.

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...79683328617/Article+5+-+PowerSteering0408.pdf
 
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