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Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

904Bronco

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I had a similar issue with the Air Temp sensor, where to put it?

Finally settled on the 45* elbow, had to double up the material as it is pretty thin.

Saw another Ford vehicle in the Wreaking yard, had the sensor in the plastic air box with a grommet. The closest match I found was Dorman Help line # 42330. Cutting a slit in the silicon hose sounds kind of "Sketch" as my son says...
 

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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Saw another Ford vehicle in the Wreaking yard, had the sensor in the plastic air box with a grommet. The closest match I found was Dorman Help line # 42330. Cutting a slit in the silicon hose sounds kind of "Sketch" as my son says...

I wonder: Does this sensor need to be in the intake tube? I guess it should have filtered air passing by it.
 

904Bronco

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I wonder: Does this sensor need to be in the intake tube? I guess it should have filtered air passing by it.

Filtered > Maybe... Probably best.
It is just looking at Temp, so all it would see is dust if it was in the air box. You planning on a dry or (oiled) wet cone filter? Oil could be transferred and muck up it's readings whether it is in the tube behind the filter or in the box with. I am not a fan of the K&N filters...

Just random thoughts here...
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Filtered > Maybe... Probably best.
It is just looking at Temp, so all it would see is dust if it was in the air box. You planning on a dry or (oiled) wet cone filter? Oil could be transferred and muck up it's readings whether it is in the tube behind the filter or in the box with. I am not a fan of the K&N filters...

Just random thoughts here...

I'm leaning toward a paper filter. The oil just seems like a bad idea on an EFI setup. Maybe I'm just paranoid...
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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I have questions!

1. I know I'm going to have to lower the coil pack bracket for hood clearance. With spark plug wires, it sits about 2" higher than the top of the PS reservoir cap.
48936831428_bdf1a60a3d_z.jpg


But it looks like I can only lower it about 1" before it hits the fuel rail on the passenger side.
48937376106_80ce4221e4_z.jpg


Is 1" going to be sufficient?

2. I'm confused about the vacuum lines for the fuel pressure regulator. I think one hose end that's resting on the lower intake in the picture plugs-into the upper intake manifold.
48937563807_1a32e3656c_z.jpg


And I think the one in my hand plugged-into this plastic thingy on the side of the EGR valve.
48937376081_f3e842a7c9_z.jpg

Since I'm deleting the EGR valve, do I need to keep the plastic thingy? If so, what is it called? If not, how do I route the vacuum lines?

3. I replaced the oil pump on the engine and will need to prime it before starting. Do I have to separate the cam position sensor from the camshaft synchronizer (and thus get my hands on the alignment tool to reinstall) or can I pull the whole thing out and reinstall as one unit?

Thanks!
 

904Bronco

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Yes about an inch is all you can go... Right rear bolt might need shortened.

Try tilting it forward, down in front, for a little more clearance from the hood cross brace... Still taking an inch out.

Red plastic hose feeds vacuum to Fuel reg, can use just a vacuum hose.
White plastic hose feeds vacuum to EGR control valve, black thingy, if you are deleting EGR then you can delete this stuff.

Priming oil pump, motor at top dead center, remove cam synchronizer as a unit, prime pump, reinstall cam Sync as a unit. For giggles, remove the sensor from the body and check cam sync for proper position with tool
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Yes about an inch is all you can go... Right rear bolt might need shortened.

Try tilting it forward, down in front, for a little more clearance from the hood cross brace... Still taking an inch out.

Red plastic hose feeds vacuum to Fuel reg, can use just a vacuum hose.
White plastic hose feeds vacuum to EGR control valve, black thingy, if you are deleting EGR then you can delete this stuff.

Priming oil pump, motor at top dead center, remove cam synchronizer as a unit, prime pump, reinstall cam Sync as a unit. For giggles, remove the sensor from the body and check cam sync for proper position with tool

Awesome. Thanks!
 

904Bronco

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Awesome. Thanks!

On second thought....

Run the engine to TDC, remove the cam Sync sensor, two bolts, and then put the tool in place, note the direction the sensor plug is pointing. Directions say point in forward at the Rad. But mine have been slightly off center. That way when you pull it and prime the pump, it should go back in in the same position. You may have to move the the pump drive shaft a little, if it does not want to line up/drop in.
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Latest Updates:
- I decided to buy a new coil pack mount from MIGS, instead of modifying the original.
- I pulled the CPS and synchronizer, following the PDF that 904Bronco posted in this thread so I could prime the oil pump. Perhaps a bit premature, since it will be a few months before I'm ready to crank it over.
- Welded the lower donut brackets for the radiator to the core support. Despite what you see in the images below, I am NOT a professional welder. ;D

49029474396_b968f3c777_z.jpg


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- This morning I took an inch out of the oil fill tube to help with hood clearance.

49029684547_0cf0be8c43_z.jpg


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Rox Crusher

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Latest milestone: I installed the Lokar Column Shift Linkage between the factory column and 4R70W. Following the Lokar instructions, I replaced the selector shaft in the transmission with the one that came in the kit. I had to move the Park position of the arm from 7:30 to about 9:00 in order for the stainless steel rod to reach, then trimmed about 1/2" off the end of the rod so that the pivot point was at the end of the arm. Thanks to Viperwolf1 for providing guidance on this!

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The indicator on the column lines-up pretty well with the various gears, with the exception of 1st, which indicates between 1st and 2nd.

47936969903_e39bd6cdd5_z.jpg

Nice thread you have here.

You can get the indicator to line up better. If I recall correctly what we did on mine was to put a slight bend in the arm that mounts to the trans which helped some. Then Viperwolf1 had a longer arm made. Hit him up for details, he may even have extras laying around.
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Shifting gears to the wiring portion of this project before I clutter the engine compartment with any more hoses. Wiring isn't my strong suit, and I've been dreading it. Looking for some clarification on some of the under-hood wiring:

-From what I understand, I'll use the Green wire w/red stripe from the Bronco's voltage regulator plug to excite the Explorer 4G alternator.

Comparing my wires to Seabiscuit's wiring diagram I have identified the following:

Voltage Regulator plug:
- Orange - to old alternator - no longer needed
- Yellow - to ammeter/starter relay(?) - no longer needed
- Noise Suppression Capacitor - no longer needed

49062490522_4421b7a02f_z.jpg


Old alternator plug:
- Black w/Yellow stripe - Based on the diagram, it looks like this wire feeds a bunch of stuff. Should I keep it and connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid?
- Orange - to voltage regulator - no longer needed
- Black w/red stripe - to voltage regulator - no longer needed

49061757728_dcf8e598de_z.jpg


Fusible Link
- Yellow - to voltage regulator - no longer needed
- Black - Diagram shows this as black w/red stripe going to the ammeter (which has been removed from the gauge cluster.) Do I need this?

49061757758_59e70ab780_z.jpg


I also have a red wire w/blue stripe that went to the "S" terminal on the old starter solenoid and a brown wire that wen tot he "I" terminal. I think I can ditch both of these, as there were new wires provided in EFIGuy's harness.
 
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Cooter_76

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Decided to buy a new coil pack bracket from MIGS, instead of trying to modify the original myself and I'm glad I did!
Had to replace the front two lower intake bolts with some 4" studs so I could space the new bracket a bit higher with an extra nut on each side to clear the Explorer PS pump. It fits great.

49066765446_549e3148d5_z.jpg


49066765456_b479fb3c5b_z.jpg
 

904Bronco

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All the wiring from the old Alt and Reg can go. Orange, yellow, and suppressor

Large black wire/yellow strip is the main feed to the Bronco. Stays.
Large black wire/red stripe... Not certain how this is run? I get from your description that it has a fuseable link, runs to the Amp gauge and then back to the ALT. If that is all it does then you could delete it. Might be worthwhile doing a little testing... continuity tester maybe to be certain. With these things over 50 yrs old you never know what the PO's have changed.

Green with red strip is the field wire, needed, should have power in Run and not in Acc.

If you have Gary's harness with the red start wire, then you will not need the factory red wire with the blue stripe.

The Brown wire to the "I" post on the starter relay is not needed
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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All the wiring from the old Alt and Reg can go. Orange, yellow, and suppressor



Large black wire/yellow strip is the main feed to the Bronco. Stays.

Large black wire/red stripe... Not certain how this is run? I get from your description that it has a fuseable link, runs to the Amp gauge and then back to the ALT. If that is all it does then you could delete it. Might be worthwhile doing a little testing... continuity tester maybe to be certain. With these things over 50 yrs old you never know what the PO's have changed.



Green with red strip is the field wire, needed, should have power in Run and not in Acc.



If you have Gary's harness with the red start wire, then you will not need the factory red wire with the blue stripe.



The Brown wire to the "I" post on the starter relay is not needed



I’m glad you responded to this, and it brings up another question: Garry’s harness came with wires for both the S and I terminals on the solenoid. I must’ve ditched the Bronco solenoid because I can’t find it. I do have the Explorer solenoid, which only has an S terminal. I asked Garry about this a few months ago, and the gist was that it depends on the Bronco’s ignition switch as to which version of solenoid to use. I’ve seen similar discussions here on CB. In your experience, which solenoid would you recommend?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

904Bronco

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I’m glad you responded to this, and it brings up another question: Garry’s harness came with wires for both the S and I terminals on the solenoid. I must’ve ditched the Bronco solenoid because I can’t find it. I do have the Explorer solenoid, which only has an S terminal. I asked Garry about this a few months ago, and the gist was that it depends on the Bronco’s ignition switch as to which version of solenoid to use. I’ve seen similar discussions here on CB. In your experience, which solenoid would you recommend?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I have always used either an Explorer starter relay or a late model Mustang relay as they have and internal diode which prevents feedback.

Of course there are plenty of folks here that have retained the Bronco factory starter relay and said they have had no issues.

If I don't use the relay from the donor Explorer, then I buy one from O'Reilly's. They list two, standard and heavy duty. Both come with an "I" terminal...

I have done 3 Explorer conversions and 3 Mustang based EFI conversions, never used the I terminal... Hope this helps?
 
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Cooter_76

Cooter_76

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Latest updates:

- Mounted the C115 Connector to the firewall, under the PCM. Also routed the dash wiring through the firewall.
49107138006_db98f89919_z.jpg


- Made a platform to ease under-dash work.
49106628958_08279900df_z.jpg


- Also made a bracket to mount the relay box and fuse panel to the passenger side fender.
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