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F150 disk conversion - clutch ring issue

Kodyak

Newbie
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
18
Couldn’t find anything in searches. Trying to finish up an axle rebuild. 1975 Dana 44 w/drums converted using F150 parts. Trying to get the locking hub clutch ring to fit cleanly. Used hubs, hub lockers, turned rotors. Inner grooves need TLC on first hub. Second hub same - just won’t loosen up!!?? Worked the grooves with file and wire brush. Outer clutch needs to move with spring tension right? Otherwise hub won’t come out of lock. Could hub cylinder be out of true? Can I force clutch ring with a punch to form cylinder? Am I missing something? Would rather not throw down $$ for 2 new hubs...any help appreciated!
Thx!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
Stock lockouts?
With everything else out of the way, will it slide cleanly in the hub?
Another thing, too much grease will make them act up. The lockout is not a bearing, just need the lightest coat on the parts, not packed solid.
 
OP
OP
K

Kodyak

Newbie
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
18
Stock lockouts. Never had one so stubborn.wonder if the PO beat the crap out of the hub cylinder? Looks straight...measures close. Stock lockouts came from drum hub but that shouldn’t matter ...
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
1975 Dana 44 w/drums converted using F150 parts.

These are '79 and prior parts, correct? Or is it a mix of parts with knuckles from one year, hub and rotor from another?

And the lockout mechanism is the "old" stock stuff (Dana-Spicer) with the red plastic knob (usually faded to pink) with the FORD name molded into it. Correct?
Not the "newer" stock stuff that looks just like a Warn hub (because it basically is a Warn hub!) with the aluminum slug. Correct?

Trying to get the locking hub clutch ring to fit cleanly.

To be sure we're on the same page (and I don't even have the page open, so bear with me!) by "clutch ring" you're referring to the heavy, splined and dog-toothed ring that butts up against the large inner spring?
I would assume so, because it's usually the part that's hardest to fit when something isn't right.
But wanted to be sure anyway.

Inner grooves need TLC on first hub. Second hub same - just won’t loosen up!!??

We're talking about the splines in the outer bearing hub? Did you also check the splines on the locking mechanism? Both can get buggered somewhat, although I see it more often on the main bearing hub.

Does the outer clutch ring fit over the axle shaft splines with no problem?

Worked the grooves with file and wire brush.

Sounds like you are talking about the splines/grooves then. Yes, that's what you do. The parts are a pretty precise fit, so even a tiny burr in the metal can jam up the works.
And definitely check both sets of splines. Hub and lockout.

How tight are your wheel bearings? Or are you doing all of this while the parts are still disassembled? If on the vehicle, if the wheel and tire are hanging off of it, or the weight of the vehicle is on the ground, any excess play in the bearings will serve to jam up the mechanism when you're trying to slide it in.

But if the hub itself is mooshed and distorted, you're going to be working hard to get things to work. If they ever do.

Outer clutch needs to move with spring tension right?

Not really the outer. I thought it was the inner splined section (with the splines on the outer perimeter that engage the main hub) that the big spring pushes outward against. The outer one stays essentially stationary.
The knob pushes the thin ring (with the two long "ears") inward against the spring, pushing the inner cog/gear/clutch/thingy away from the outer one and disengages the dog teeth.

Otherwise hub won’t come out of lock.

Right. The hub comes out of lock when the knob pushes the ears of the ring and moves the inner gear inward, out of engagement. So if the splines are buggered and the part can't slide inward, it won't disengage/unlock.

Could hub cylinder be out of true?

Most definitely. They're not as robust as they look and can come out of round from banging around during shipping, or someone getting too aggressive with a hammer or running into an obstacle off road.

Can I force clutch ring with a punch to form cylinder?

It's possible. But I would not do that unless maybe as a last resort.
Not sure how hardened or brittle the ring is, and would not want to see you mess it up.
But if you use something large and round, to push against the entire circle, I think that would be worth a shot. Just not a punch on a small area.
If you think it's close, and the hub is dismounted from the vehicle, a large socket, or pipe would serve to push the ring in and hopefully clear the splines.

But don't do it with it mounted to the vehicle. It'd be a rough one if that part got jammed up inside the hub and you could not take things apart.

Am I missing something? Would rather not throw down $$ for 2 new hubs...any help appreciated!

Nope. Looks like you've got most of the angles covered. Seems like you've been trying to clean the splines up, which is the most common issue. But if the hub is distorted, you'll either have to deal with that somehow (hammers and other big heavy items come to mind) or buy new ones. Rather find you can fix your old ones so the money is not wasted. But it would not be the first time a hub was distorted enough and hard enough to fix that new hubs were the answer.

Only thing extra I would say would be to post up some pics of what you're working with. Might not help, but we like seeing pics of Broncos, and Bronco parts!

Good luck.

Paul
 
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OP
K

Kodyak

Newbie
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
18
Thanks for the very detailed response! I think I’m throwing in the towel - too many dimples in the cylinder, too much fine-tuning and I’m starting to wreck the clutch ring. New hubs it is!!
 
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