14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

ntsqd · Sep 11, 2019

Worst it can do is break, right?

In your research did you learn anything about the later housings with the added ribs on the center section? I *think* those only show up in the RDB version(s). I'm curious about them, but have no practical need to apply the info.

nvrstuk · Sep 11, 2019

I actually have a ribbed later model housing...it's a post '88-2000 (late pinion brg) model and they had both discs on some models and slide on drums. That's the year they started going with slide on drums...

Stronger housing due to the ribbing, easy to bolt on disc brake caliper brackets IF you don't change hubs like I did...then you need to buy a weld on caliper bracket to align the rotor. (I like this- learning alot)

Everything else internal interchanges with the later housings except when you swap to the "narrow SRW hub" you end up needing to trim the axle ends a bit. I will write that up later. Only about .125"

79INA69 · Sep 12, 2019

In regards the the spindles: The early spindles have a wider bearing spread and different seal type. The late model ribbed units have a narrower bearing spread. The hubs wont work, as there will not be any threads showing when
putting a late hub on an early housing. Late hubs use 14x1.50 studs, but can pound in the 9/16x18 no prob. I installed a disc brake set up on the back side of my late model hubs and had .001" runout, another misconception about slip on drum hubs. I believe RS 14 weld on spindles are the later style smaller spread style. The ribbed housing is stronger with .5" tubes. The early housings are thin and thats why everyone has a huge coast to coast truss on theirs

ntsqd · Sep 12, 2019

The earlier housings are thin where? Certainly not in the tubes, not if the bent one that I cut up is a valid sample.

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

Here's a pic showing a later model "narrow" SRW hub on a ribbed housing. I have not measured the bearing spacing between the 3 different hubs that I have but just laying a caliper over the hub for a rough estimate they look the same.

This is why I need to keep tearing stuff apart

and measuring . There are different SRW hubs...

Looks like plenty of thread on the spindle showing here on this '96 "narrow" SRW hub to install lock nuts

I also have the RS spindles so I can measure the bearing spacing on them also to make sure we (I) get all these variables figured out.

In the pic there is approx .280" of an inch clearance btw the end of the spindle and the stock SRW hub face on the left (stock -what came on the housing) and the narrow SRW hub on the right has appr .090" btw the end of the spindle. and the narrow SRW hub

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

What's the misconception concerning brakes with slide on hubs? I know you can buy bolt on caliper brkts for them but if you swap late model "narrow" SRW hubs onto an earlier axle then you need a weld on caliper set up...is this what you mean??

79INA69 · Sep 12, 2019

Some guys were stating that the back side of the hubs were not machined flat on the slip on rotor / drum hubs. Obviously the early style has the drum mounted on the back side of the hub. My axle said it came from a 96 Suburban SRW. 65.5 wms and had slip on drums. My hubs look like the 63" wms early hubs, but they wont fit and had metric studs

79INA69 · Sep 12, 2019

Talking with WFO and RS they were telling me why they sell the full length truss only due to the 3/8" thick axle tubes of the early housings. When I first started researching and looking at housings I thought these guys were crazy trussing a humongous 14b under a yota. I think it is more of a problem when linking the axle

Yeller · Sep 12, 2019

79INA69 said:
Talking with WFO and RS they were telling me why they sell the full length truss only due to the 3/8" thick axle tubes of the early housings. When I first started researching and looking at housings I thought these guys were crazy trussing a humongous 14b under a yota. I think it is more of a problem when linking the axle

Not all early ones are created equal, I’ve seen thin as 1/4” and thick as 1/2”. I know the tubes in mine are 1/2”, but it is out of a cab and chassis dually, lived in a dump truck before I got it. Any more if I’m working on an early one I drill the tube and measure it’s thickness, thin ones always get a truss. More than linking I think the issue is pounding the center section on the ground or hooking a tire on an immovable object, especially at any kind of speed.

If anyone is interested I do have a set of early bolt on brackets I’d sell cheap

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

Hmmmm, not a bad idea on drilling to check the thickness

79INA69 · Sep 12, 2019

For the record, Im just adding what little info I have fresh on my mind as I just put 2 together recently. By no means am I trying to talk over anyone here. I am far far less experienced in the early bronco world than most here. Im happy to help though. One other worthy note is when your not cutting tubes: The early 14b are centered pinion / offset housing. The later ribbed one I have is a centered housing / offset pinion. This will make the link bracket look off center but lined up the driveshaft very well with my transfer case

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

By all means chime in!! Add good stuff...it's all about sharing and building a reliable databa$e at nvrstuk'$ expen$e... ,-)

79INA69 · Sep 12, 2019

RS is selling big eldo calipers with e brake built in now. You can also bolt on the factory disc brake set up if you can find one complete. E brakes are required for a lot of events these days looks like. What are the thoughts on cutting/ shaving/ welding onto the cast housing? I just cut the lip and made a smooth radius on mine, only welded the truss to the tubes. I have seen a ton of cut housings here in CA, some done carefully with heat and some just MIG welded cold. But I have yet to see one sitting dead with the bottom falling off.

Yeller · Sep 12, 2019

Yes all Input is good

I know this is Brian’s build and thread but I really enjoy our banter, also always willing to share knowledge and as a community we all benefit from it.

Welding to the cast is not an issue. I’ve mig welded them cold and preheated, all are still out there in use. I prefer to heat them enough to clean the grease out of the pores in the casting, it is a ductile iron material that is very weldable. If I weld them cold I make 2 passes. As for welder settings I run the voltage 1.5 volts higher than normal, it makes the puddle just a bit more runny so it has time to soak into the pores of the casting. On trusses I always weld the casting to it, I’ve had the trusses fold over and this prevents that. On link placement I just weld them directly to the casting, I just tend to make them have more contact area than is really necessary but I’ve had no failures.

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

I like the banter more than the build thread...get to understand people's personalities a bit and their experience/background!! not bothering me by any means!!

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

Good stuff to know Steve...

I'm glad you brought this up...I'm going to shave the bottom...can't imagine dragging 2 more inches than needed all around the country
..

Has anybody just cut and ground the housing flat enough to use the TMR style 15 bolt cover and plate? Do I really need to pay someone with a mill to get it flat within .030" or so? Why can't I grind on it for 2 days, using a straight edge and a dozen grinding wheels and maybe my 4" x 12" belt sander???

I was thinking of trying to preheat the housing some anyway-monster rosebud and heat evenly applied with the cover bolted on???

nvrstuk · Sep 12, 2019

Shopping around and the going rate for milling and welding is $300 smackers...another 50-100 bucks to grind the ring gear down (this allows a full 2" off the housing)...so I've heard.

Thoughts? Should I sell a kidney and just "do it"?

Yeller · Sep 12, 2019

I can tell you if you run them long enough you can grind the bottom bolt on rocks until the head is ground off

;D

I debated shaving mine for about 2 minutes, it was put together, full of oil not leaking and ready to install, so in it went and hasn’t come back out. This is the 3rd vehicle I’ve built with this particular axle.

I’ve put them together with the cover and welded them, applied plenty of rite stuff sealant and not had them leak so it can be done. I’ve also ground the ring gear bolted to the carrier, dropped it in the housing, shoved an axle in and had someone turn it while I held a belt sander with a wet belt and had someone else spraying water on it. Then cut the housing and cleaned everything up. Pretty red neck but it worked.

ntsqd · Sep 13, 2019

Most likely the factory welded the tubes in, GM usually does Rosettes in a couple places on each tube. That ought to say something for the center casting being weldable.

I have not welded on a 14bff, but my SOP for anything with that much mass is to pre-heat it. I get a pure acetylene flame's soot on it, then heat until the soot burns off. Works really well for putting aluminum Spring Car heads back together too.

Depending on how fast it is cooling I might also post-heat.

Not a fan of Caddy RDB calipers. I'll stop there.

Yeller · Sep 13, 2019

ntsqd said:
I get a pure acetylene flame's soot on it, then heat until the soot burns off.

works really good for annealing aluminum sheet too. can roll some really nice radius's in 1/8" sheet with a few clamps and a piece of pipe by starting with that process.

14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

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