14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

nvrstuk · Sep 15, 2019

So heres the issues with moving eliminating my Klune as it moves the 205 6 3/4" forward...

The front radius arm bolts will have to be removed (probably tap thru the frame and brakets just to have more shear) but, since I worked so hard to get the 205 clocked up this high, I have almost a 1/4" btw the radius arm brkt and the side of the 205 case...

1410 ujoint I'm sure won't clear my shift cable (which can't be moved further away w/o coming in from the front)...

Also, I have dozens of clocking positions with the Klune to 205 clock ring. Without that ring I wonder how my 205 clocking angle will be?

Wonder how I could know now what the clocking positions are ... to plan for it...?

nvrstuk · Sep 15, 2019

Is High Angle Driveline the only company that makes a ujoint/yoke setup that can handle 36 degrees...WITHOUT vibrating?? Not sure I want one of those Tom Woods offset joints...I'll bet at 45-50 mph wheel speed they can shake pretty bad???

Never run one before...

Yeller · Sep 16, 2019

Yes you won't want to use an offset joint for your application. They work great on hard core crawlers, I run one on my buggy on the front shaft, it vibrates bad at speed in 4wd, 2wd seems fine but in that car you would never notice a vibration at speed unless it blurrs your vision.

Not that I know of. Tom Woods does up to 34 degrees IIRC.

On my front shaft I'm running a 1310/1330 hybrid cv, I've never measured the angle but a normal 1310 cv was at full angle at ride height, this combination does not bind even at full droop. On our comp crawler we run 1310 joints and have never had a ujoint failure in 18 years. the rear different story but front has been fine.

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

No CV on the frt shaft then?

Yeller · Sep 16, 2019

On the buggy no, it has a 2 pc shaft with a carrier bearing, a 1 piece shaft would go through the starter and bell housing. its a bastard child LOL. drive shaft leaves the tcase, pointed away from the trans and down below the starter, through the bearing and then up and in to the pinion, rockwells have a really high pinion... the rear shaft actually points down to the tcase from the pinion;D

You do have the option to not run a CV on the front shaft, a 1410 will take the angle by its self and live with a little clearance of the yolk, but it will vibrate, a lot... For you with all challenges present, if you can make the rear work, which looks like it will, or close enough to be workable, worst case loosing 1-1/2" of droop when at the dunes. I think for tested robustness I'd call it done, leave enough adjustment in the links and brackets to adjust pinion angle if you ever crawl down the tcase rabbit hole.

and I say dunes, snow applies too, you would really only notice a center limiting strap high speed whompin on it, and then probably not as much as you think.

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

Creative DS geometry...do what ya have to ...right?

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

Since I'm pulling the Klune I'm going to be forced to rotate the tcase since it looks like I have to for bolt alignment btetween the 4r70w and the 205. Since it looks like I have zero options there, I might try the 1410's.

Talked with 3 different Driveline shops today...

79INA69 · Sep 16, 2019

FWIW, Im pretty sure you can buy clocking rings seperate from NW fab and others, that way you can still clock without the Klune. I set mine up with a center limit strap for rear droop. What I started looking at was Jeep 2dr builds. Some of their rear driveshafts are 12"! Total length! Granted, they are crawlers and are not jumping them, but I think I was able to droop 9" till bind. You just need to drop the ride height another 3"...should be easy right?

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

NWFab... wonder how that holds up to 710 x 2.84 ft lbs of torque...thinking shear... ??

Yeller · Sep 16, 2019

imo it will live fine, I have one that’s been trouble free for 15 years with a welded spud shaft and 5 of the 6 bolts in it, with this particular combination it’s all that fit. 4x4 Turbo 350, GM 208 adapter and Dana 300, my bastard child buggy again

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

Jesse at High Angle says he can probably make something work but first I need to drop the front to full droop and give him the angle of the D60 pinion. Front's not 3 linked yet so I'm hoping the pinion angle to the t-case is close enough... not adjustable...

I might use the clocking ring to give me another 3/8" longer front DS but shortening the rear because I have a couple degrees to play with..and of course dial in the 205 height... lot's going on... I love all the options... (options now...probably won't be later!! ) lol

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

Be a few days before I can take full front end droop measurements on the D60 pinion yoke for High Angle ... so for the past week and a half I've been researching ways to make the 14 bolt less of a rock dragging boat anchor. Cool kits out there for shaving the bottom on the housing...

Here is the cost to get almost 2" more clearance on a 14 bolt housing with a TMR shave kit. It requires machining on the case & reducing the diameter of the ring gear also. So those costs are added in...
TMR kit $419 for a TMR shave kit
$300 for machining the housing
$100 to machine the ring gear

totalling $800 plus bucks

13 bolt kit: a 13 bolt cover ranges from $140 to $199.

to gain 5/8" over the cost of a "13 bolt"shave kit is not in my budget...

So for a $600 savings I will sacrifice 5/8" ground clearance over a housing that has been shaved almost 2 full inches at $660 savings to me...

Here's a pic of the 13 bolt cast cover from Crane. Barnes sells a 3/8" thick welded plate cover for $139.

1st pic shows cover and typical 14 bolt housing. 2nd pic shows housing flipped over to work on and the sawsall ready to start trimming the bottom 1 1/4" off the housing.

This is what I'm going to do.

The housing cover is appr 4" deep from the mounting surface to the back of the cover. I have 4 1/4" clearance now btw my RuffStuff housing and my gas tank...close but it shoud fit!

You can see the difference in the shape of the housing compared to the cut off flat bottom of the cover the guy is holding.

nvrstuk · Sep 16, 2019

This measurement is so hard to believe I checked it 2 different times...

The center of the 14 bolt pinion shaft is only 1 1/2" lower than the pinion shaft on the TrueHi9! I really thought the pinion on the 14 bolt would sit several inches below the axle centerline but because it is tilted at such an angle to point towards the t-case it ends up being less than 2" difference height off the ground (or above the axle centerline) btw these 2 rear ends.

Another measurement that really surprises me is my "914" (current 9" w/14 bolt hubs) only sits 1 1/2" higher off the ground than the new 14 bolt! Which means when I shave 1 1/4" off with the 13 bolt cover I lose less than 1/4" of ground clearance with the 14 bolt... never would have thought it would be that insignificant!

79INA69 · Sep 17, 2019

I was going to purchase the crane cover too, as it is one of the more shallow covers and best looking. They were out of stock for months, so I went with RS cover for 120 and they threw in a LL gasket. If LL could make a 13 bolt gasket that would be awesome! I don't like silicone. But aside from an added possible fluid weep, this option is much less involved than cutting the ring gear

nvrstuk · Sep 17, 2019

I didnt even know RS made a 13bolt cover..

The cast Crane cover does look better...60 more bucks to an already "unneccessary repairc of my rear!

79INA69 · Sep 17, 2019

RS, only makes 14b cover. very beefy! I figured its gonna bang and drag so I would rather have the extra bolt and LL gasket. Read a few people drag rocks and it breaks the silicone seal. I'm going to attempt to shave it the old fashioned way...by dragging it.

nvrstuk · Sep 17, 2019

Dragging 5500#s was my concern also about a cast cover...Barnes 13 bolt cover is 3/8" plate which should make it a tad bit harder to tear it away from the sealing surface...(my thought anyway was to literally weld a couple of beads frt to rear that would protrude app1/16" below the new 13 bolt cover so it would be less likely to hang up on an obstacle...if it bends it several times then I guess I spend the inheritance from my rich Aunt (wish I had one) on the TMR kit... easier now for sure but I'm thinking (hoping) it won't be an issue...

Yeller · Sep 17, 2019

I've been using a cast Solid cover for the last 5 or 6 years with LL gasket, no seeps and is nearly a 13 bolt now. When I put the cover on I had to grind 1/2" off of the bottom of it to blend it in with the bottom of the housing.

79INA69 · Sep 17, 2019

Can someone chime in about the u joint straps on the yoke. I opted to use the stock yoke and straps for now until I have an issue. I am linked and have a RS shovel guarding the yoke. Are they breaking from the bolts getting loose? The u joint sits in 3/4 of the saddle and the strap sits across the top 1/4. I have seen some ground down and replaced with u bolts. Is this more of an issue from leaf spring wrap up or impact to the yoke without a guard?

Yeller · Sep 17, 2019

I run straps and have never had a failure. Every failure I’ve witnessed involved axle wrap with leaf springs that ripped them apart. I’ve corkscrewed a Dumpster full of Driveshaft’s using them as skid plates but have never broken a strap, and I’ve ground them down enough the bolts were hard to get out on rocks. Now I do carry a spare set as insurance but have never needed them in 20+ years on the trail.

According to my driveshaft guy they have a higher torque rating than ubolts due to the joint being seated deeper in the yolk. The straps only hold the ujoint in the yolk they do not hold any torque, it is all transferred into the yolk. Versus ubolt type do not.

14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Bronco Guru

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Bronco Guru

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Jr. Member

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Attachments

Bronco Guru

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Attachments

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Jr. Member

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Jr. Member

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

Bronco Guru

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

Similar threads