EFI fuel line routing

Braifab · Oct 23, 2020

I've seen several pics of frame-offs that show different fuel line routing for EFI, top of frame and side of frame. Is there any reason the top of frame would not be preferred, providing the filter is accessible? I'm using stainless lines with AN fittings by the way.

fordguy · Oct 23, 2020

i followed the original path.

tatersalad · Oct 23, 2020

I went side of frame however if there's room top of frame is fine. Probably easier with a body lift.

904Bronco · Oct 23, 2020

I prefer the top of the frame, with the filter mounted in such a manner that it is accessible.

Minimize unions/connections, if you have to have them, be sure you have access to them when the body is on.

jhill52 · Oct 23, 2020

Top of frame is fine as long as you can access fittings and filter.

jamesroney · Oct 23, 2020

It is a truck. NOTHING goes between the top of the frame and the bed / body that you can't afford to pinch / crush or drill a hole thru. (think rollover, wreck, overload, etc)

I like to have the wiring and plumbing in a location where I can see it, and service it. If you want to be super cool and awesome...put the plumbing inside the frame.

That being said...there is a legit argument for putting the fuel line out of the way of a whipping driveshaft, or a hot exhaust. (But the muffler on an EB is on the other side of the truck!)

Since I'm the guy that has to fix it...I'd rather be able to see it.
Totally agree with zero unions, connections, splices, and rubber hoses.

yakelys69 · Oct 23, 2020

My fuel and brake lines transitions from side of the frame in the back to top of the frame. This way I can easily have access to body mount bolts and remove transfer case/ transmission without touching the lines. I used bc Broncos clamps, came out decent.
This also made a good place for fuel filter.

Braifab · Oct 24, 2020

Thanks for the advice and pics. Strictly a street rig. Had all that damaging type fun many years and 2 grandkids ago. Without the body, running them on top looks sexy but side mount appears more practicle.....think I'll try practicle for once.

mustanggarage · Oct 24, 2020

I am using a Duff true dual exhaust so to keep the lines away from the heat I ran them on top of the frame. With a 2 inch body lift it is still pretty easy to access them if needed

73azbronco · Oct 25, 2020

JD style torque bar so had to run them on top and again 2 inch bl, no issue to work on them in fact installed them after body on frame. And IMO, there is zero chance of crushing the lines if you roll over using 2 inch hard pucks.

ntsqd · Oct 25, 2020

Mine transition from side at the rear to top at the front where they're out of the way of clutch linkage & away from the driver's side exhaust before it crosses under to the Pass side. I also routed it to come up the rear of the engine since there will be no mech. fuel pump (Exploder front dress).

I'm a believer in as few connections as possible, but I always make the transition from frame to anything else with a flexible line, and at least one of those connections is mounted solid. This the tab on the frame at the engine:

Additionally they're color-coded. Black is the return, Blue is the supply. Those caps were temporary to keep the lines clean. And yes, that is nylon tubing. On purpose. I used Push-to-Connect 'wash-down' fittings for their viton o-ring seals on the tubing. The flexible connection to the engine is Emissions Barrier Fuel Hose used with Push-Lok/Barb-tite hose ends for a complete fuel system with only one hose clamp (& it goes away when I change the fuel tank!).
Low pressure pump and primary fuel filter:

I really need to get back to work on that truck!

Braifab · Oct 26, 2020

ntsqd said:
Mine transition from side at the rear to top at the front where they're out of the way of clutch linkage & away from the driver's side exhaust before it crosses under to the Pass side. I also routed it to come up the rear of the engine since there will be no mech. fuel pump (Exploder front dress).

I'm a believer in as few connections as possible, but I always make the transition from frame to anything else with a flexible line, and at least one of those connections is mounted solid. This the tab on the frame at the engine:

Additionally they're color-coded. Black is the return, Blue is the supply. Those caps were temporary to keep the lines clean. And yes, that is nylon tubing. On purpose. I used Push-to-Connect 'wash-down' fittings for their viton o-ring seals on the tubing. The flexible connection to the engine is Emissions Barrier Fuel Hose used with Push-Lok/Barb-tite hose ends for a complete fuel system with only one hose clamp (& it goes away when I change the fuel tank!).
Low pressure pump and primary fuel filter:

I really need to get back to work on that truck!

Sweet, I'll stay with the stainless lines and I have a bracket at the front very similar to yours. I'm liking them on top with transition to side at the rear. Color coding is a great idea. Once again, thanks for intell.

JeepGuy · Oct 26, 2020

904Bronco said:
I prefer the top of the frame, with the filter mounted in such a manner that it is accessible.

Minimize unions/connections, if you have to have them, be sure you have access to them when the body is on.

Ok.. ok... I'll say it. THAT GARAGE IS WAY TOO CLEAN!;D

nvrstuk · Oct 26, 2020

jamesroney said:
It is a truck. NOTHING goes between the top of the frame and the bed / body that you can't afford to pinch / crush or drill a hole thru. (think rollover, wreck, overload, etc)

I like to have the wiring and plumbing in a location where I can see it, and service it. If you want to be super cool and awesome...put the plumbing inside the frame.

That being said...there is a legit argument for putting the fuel line out of the way of a whipping driveshaft, or a hot exhaust. (But the muffler on an EB is on the other side of the truck!)

Since I'm the guy that has to fix it...I'd rather be able to see it.
Totally agree with zero unions, connections, splices, and rubber hoses.

IF you consider a 1/4 ton rated Bronco a "truck" then how much weight is going in the bed? I know, a few of them are licensed as trucks but back to thinking that the bed will be loaded so much that it will bend and pinch a fuel line. I think that is a non-existant concern.

My thought is it's a LOT safer on top of the frame rail compared to being on the inside when you lose a ujoint/drive shaft and the shaft comes over and hits your gas lines that are routed on the inside hoping they'd be safe. Just saying that I've seen more DS grenade and put a dent in the frame rail than I've ever heard of the beds being pinched the distance of your body pucks with or without a body lift.

Mounted on the inner side of the frame rail you have exhaust heat issues, t-case clearance issues, etc. Just pointing this out for the OP.

I'm miles (dozens actually) from being super cool but my fuel and brake lines have been inside the frame rail for over 15 yrs. When I went SEFI both fuel lines & brakes are inside now. I removed my original brake & fuel lines to check them about 4 yrs ago and it didn't have abrasion marks on it at all. But they all have HD protective sleeves on them too. I don't have anything on the frame rails until I'm behind the cross member behind the gas tank. Too susceptible to damage for the wheeling I do.

904Bronco · Oct 26, 2020

JeepGuy said:
Ok.. ok... I'll say it. THAT GARAGE IS WAY TOO CLEAN!;D

I have been told I have a sickness... %)

Braifab · Oct 27, 2020

I've looked at a ton of the build threads and two things in particular that really stood out, being this will not be used for wheeling, are how clean engine compartments are when the wiring is hidden and same for the frame. The thing I agree with is minimal couplings and easy access to fittings. Love the cleanliness of the lines and wiring hidden on top. Not to that point yet so the debate continues.....thanks for the input!

ntsqd · Oct 27, 2020

Mine, unfortunately, is registered as a truck. Complete with KA's weight fees. It won't be until I put a bed shell permanently on the bed that I can change that. As I drove Patch for decades with a bed shell on it I'm well beyond done with those.

That said, I don't consider mine a truck at all. Even if I were hauling big rocks with it I'd have to drop them into the bed from some distance, repeatedly, before crushing or pinching something on top of the frame rail would become a problem.

904, it is a sickness that my wife wishes that I had.......

EFI fuel line routing

Braifab

Newbie

fordguy

Bronco Guru

tatersalad

Bronco Guru

904Bronco

Bronco Guru

Attachments

jhill52

Jr. Member

jamesroney

Sr. Member

Attachments

yakelys69

Sr. Member

Braifab

Newbie

mustanggarage

Sr. Member

73azbronco

Bronco Guru

ntsqd

heratic car camper

Braifab

Newbie

JeepGuy

Bronco Guru

nvrstuk

Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!

904Bronco

Bronco Guru

Braifab

Newbie

ntsqd

heratic car camper

Similar threads