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New owner from Germany

mp

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Dec 22, 2001
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Loc.
Austin, TX
Cologne is quickly becoming the epicenter of Early Broncos in Germany. See you in 2021 if coronavirus ever ends!
 

.94 OR

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Jul 5, 2009
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1,659
With the pan off, you might look at sealing up the dipstick tube if it hasn't already been done. When I had mine off I also brazed a fine thread 1/2" nut in place of the drain port. The years of use had not been kind to the course thread bolt into the pan and mine had a bad habit of leaking. Now I can use a nylon washer under the head of the bolt and seal it up well.

By the way, we have hosted 3 different exchange students from Bochum.
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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With the pan off, you might look at sealing up the dipstick tube if it hasn't already been done. When I had mine off I also brazed a fine thread 1/2" nut in place of the drain port. The years of use had not been kind to the course thread bolt into the pan and mine had a bad habit of leaking. Now I can use a nylon washer under the head of the bolt and seal it up well.

By the way, we have hosted 3 different exchange students from Bochum.

new dipstick tube, was sealing rather well. pan drain is also in decent shape...

just looked up Williamette Valley - I'd spend my student exchange there any minute! last time we were in the PNW, we went from Portland through Banks to Tillamook, and then back up to Canada again.
 

74BroncoCO

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Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
2,374
Any thoughts of swapping out the mechanical fuel pump to an electric? Could eliminate a potential noise maker and also make the fuel system a little easier to work on?
 
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tody

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Any thoughts of swapping out the mechanical fuel pump to an electric? Could eliminate a potential noise maker and also make the fuel system a little easier to work on?

The one in there when I first got the Bronco was pretty noisey, too ;)
I might just swap it back in to see if there's any difference...
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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More done on the nv3550 swap.

I was not aware that there are fitment issues with the clutch disc from Advance Adapters, but apparently there are. The center of the clutch disc did not fit the opening of the stock flywheel.

But this summer's acquirement for the shop was a lathe. So off it went!
IMG_4189.jpeg


Ran into another snag right after. The clutch fork pivot was held in by regular bolts, sticking out of the bellhousing - not clearing the adapter plate. So I'm waiting on the correct countersunk screws. Available in standard threads over here in Europe, but I need to order them each time. So more to come next weekend!
IMG_4190.jpeg
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
The original pivot bracket most likely broke in half, or the rivets got loose so the PO made a change with the wrong stuff. Usually the "kits" for the new bracket come with rivets or the correct screws. Maybe that means your pivot did not break, but the rivets let go.

Might give the old bracket a very close going over to make sure there are no fatigue cracks or anything that might cause you trouble in the near future. My original lasted about 80,000 miles or so.
Too bad too. A more robust design should last the life of the vehicle like so many others do. This was apparently then, not one of Ford's better ideas.

And being a "C5TA- " part, I'm guessing that yours is the early design where the fork has a small spring clip that holds it in place? They made a design change at some point. My '71 came with the newer design, but still was utilizing a bent pivot bracket held in place by the two rivets.

I was not aware of any problems fitting the disc either. Certainly nothing that would require machining!

My original fuel pump did not knock. The first replacement however, did have that annoying deep clunking knock after I installed it. Very annoying indeed.
But I ran it that way for probably 60,000 miles with zero issues other than the noise.
I always assumed that the travel on the arm was too short and the eccentric was mashing it up against some limiting point. But I suppose it could just have been the diaphragm making the noise? Or some sort of resonance from a different casting?
Hard to say.

Paul
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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207
I have the clutch fork with the clip riveted onto it, not the one with the separate spring. Already cleaned up the L-bracket, no signs of any cracks. Could indeed just have been the rivets coming loose.

As far as the flywheel is concerned: The center opening was too small a diameter for the springs on the clutch disc to clear. And yes, I do not have it on backwards, I double checked :cool:
It may be a problem with the clutch disc construction, as to where the center hub sits in relation to the two sides of the disc. My old clutch disc had the flywheel side of the clutch surface sticking out, and the hub sitting recessed into the opening. The new one is the other way round, the pressure plate side is sticking out in relation to the hub.

The flywheel had a groove under the inner portion I cut out, roughly 1/8", so I do not think it will weaken anything...
 
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sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Ran into another snag right after. The clutch fork pivot was held in by regular bolts, sticking out of the bellhousing - not clearing the adapter plate. So I'm waiting on the correct countersunk screws. Available in standard threads over here in Europe, but I need to order them each time. So more to come next weekend!

always something, but that's what it take sometimes to get err doing right...

Looking good man
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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damn, it just occurred to me i forgot to put in the flywheel bolts with sealant %)
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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ok, so i pulled the bellhousing and clutch again, to put sealant on the flywheel bolts.
then i pulled the bellhousing AGAIN, as i found that you cannot put in the clutch fork with the bellhousing installed %)

today, i put in the transmission. i'm really pleased with the quality of the AA kit, high quality and well fitting.

IMG_4192.jpeg

IMG_4193.jpeg


you can see that i also had to cut the exhaust, and i have not yet opened the transmission tunnel for the shifter.

i recently bought a parts washer and further cleaned up the dana 20. removed the two yokes, and put in new seals. will torque the yokes tomorrow with the help from a friend, and will put in the transfer case!
 

landshark99

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Oct 13, 2011
Messages
1,401
You might have to use a little RTV sealant on the front Dana 20 output under the yoke where the washer sits. That sometimes weeps a little oil.
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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You might have to use a little RTV sealant on the front Dana 20 output under the yoke where the washer sits. That sometimes weeps a little oil.

i already read that on here - rtv on the splines, or under the washer, or both? what's the best way to do it?
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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Transfer case is back in!
IMG_4206.jpeg


Installation was a breeze, although - i read it on here before - I had to notch the crossmember a little:
IMG_4207.jpeg


Twin stick shifter from JB Fab:
IMG_4205.jpeg


Here's the old cutout for the Hurst shifter I need to close. Maybe weld in a panel, or maybe just some sheet metal screws:
IMG_4208.jpeg


I really like the shifter layout. The NV3550 shifter is the B&M unit, I got that reasonably cheap on eBay:
IMG_4209.jpeg
 

txtruk15

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Apr 1, 2017
Messages
749
Loc.
Highland Village, TX
I really like the shifter layout. The NV3550 shifter is the B&M unit, I got that reasonably cheap on eBay:
IMG_4209.jpeg
[/QUOTE]

got the same setup on my nv3550. I really like the B&M shifter and the JB Fab stuff is of course first rate! The B&M shifts very smoothly and the throws are shorter than the old NP435 I had. looking good!
 

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sprdv1

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Mar 8, 2007
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81,734
got the same setup on my nv3550. I really like the B&M shifter and the JB Fab stuff is of course first rate! The B&M shifts very smoothly and the throws are shorter than the old NP435 I had. looking good!

JB fab is first rate for sure..
 
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tody

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Mar 22, 2017
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Hole in the transmission tunnel patched up, shifter boot installed. Looking good, shifting smoothly. Except the front shift rail of the transfer case, that is a bear to shift. It was before, too. Probably should have gone through the transfer case completely...
IMG_4215.jpeg


Also installed: shiny new valve covers.
IMG_4213.jpeg


And a seven blade stock fan:
IMG_4214.jpeg


It's running again, but the exhaust is obnoxiously loud ;D
So I cannot really judge whether or not the ticking noise is gone with the new fuel pump.
I will trailer the Bronco to an exhaust shop first week of the new year.
 
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