Fitech

bronkenn · Mar 12, 2019

Been working overtime to get truck ready for SC next month. Everything looked to be on track until the initial start up and break in yesterday. Looked everything over many times to make sure all was hooked up right and fired it up. Started pretty easy and brought the RPM's right up to 2000-2500 and it ran a little rough but not to bad. About 4-5 minutes in it started running really rich and it got so bad I shut it down. Looked everything over and found a plugged port on the back of intake was loose. Thought the vacuum leak may have caused it but fired it back up and same thing. Starts alright but ran really rough and super rich. Contacted Fitech last evening and was told to turn the IAC up until it idles at 2000-2500 rpm's and let it finish breaking in like that. Will try that this morning and see what happens. So it doesn't look good for the SC reveal unless I can get this figured out. I was kind of worried about using the Fitech because of some of the issues I have heard(read) about but I have also heard some good things as well. It is using the timing control feature on it and it does sound like a timing issue. Oh well, enough ranting and will try again today. Ken

SC74 · Mar 12, 2019

Are you planning on driving it, or towing it to SC? Either way, there is a month left to figure this out and if you're like me, it'll be something so simple and that's why it's overlooked.

But... there are a couple people at the SC every year that have done several of these Fitech systems and I'm sure might be able to offer some help while there. Look forward to seeing it there!

bronkenn · Mar 12, 2019

I'll be towing it to SC. I have a month to do this but there are still quite a few other things I have to do. Just finished the wiring harness and dash install and am getting started on assembling the doors. I am sure it is something simple and I just have to figure it out. Thanks, Ken

BigB · Mar 12, 2019

That's no good Ken.

Are you doing the initial engine break in whilst the fitech is self learning?

I thought I had read somewhere that that wasn't recommended and to use a know carb instead.

JR.BONNER · Mar 12, 2019

So I just broke my motor in as well with Fitech. It was running rich as well, partly because of assembly oils and all the oiled parts burning off and out through exhaust, cleared up after about 15 min. I also discovered your fitech wont start learning and adjusting until it gets up to 170 deg on the coolant temp. I also was off a little on timing and once that was adjusted it ran a whole lot better. Still a learning process. I watched a lot of youtube videos of Nashville early bronco he has been the most informative by far for fine tuning tips. Also grounds are very important with the system you cant just assume its grounded through the intake, I ran a dedicated ground from the unit with the new harness. Good luck.

bronkenn · Mar 12, 2019

I talked to Fitech and they told me it would be OK to break in engine but to adjust the IAC screw in until it ran at 2000-2500 rpms. I couldn't imagine having to run with a carb and than switching back. There would be a lot involved with that. Fuel pump and distributor along with plumbing and wiring. I'll keep plugging away at it but it does make you rethink some decisions. I used to be pretty good at tuning Holley carbs and these things kind of need a little more technical knowledge but at least we have the internet for investigating. I know there is a Fitech group on Facebook but I don't have that. Thanks for the replies, Ken

dougsride · Mar 12, 2019

the system won't start to learn til it comes up to operating temp. I initially had a few problems with mine running rough but I changed a few parameters and now it is great. The more I have driven it the better it has got. Another thing you may need to look at is to make sure you have a higher than stock amperage alternator on it. I put a 100 amp alt on mine and it made a big difference than running it with a stock unit.

BGBronco · Mar 13, 2019

Sorry to hear that. I did FiTech a few months ago with no issues. I did end up tweaking the IAC but very happy with it. My break in was painless as well.

bronkenn · Mar 13, 2019

Well after a few trial and errors and trying to eliminate every obvious cause I think I may have figured it out with the help of the tech line. I kept getting an rpm spike on the handheld monitor and the unit would start running rough and misfire and shut down. Other times it would fire up and run 2000-2500 rpm's for 8-10 minutes and not miss a lick then just quit like you turned off the ignition. Spent hours online trying to get ideas why and how to fix it. Kept coming up with EMI interference through the tach wire feed to the unit. I wrapped all the wires, from distributor and coil, with aluminum foil to try and isolate the issue. Called the tech support and we went over everything and he had me send pictures of everything and we went over everything again to see if something was missed. He finally said that he couldn't see anything that was causing the EMI interference. He told me that to try one Hail Mary and shield the front of the unit from the distributor and I taped the front of the unit with foil tape and wrapped the distributor cap with aluminum foil. Started it up and it ran great with no problems for ten minutes. So it sounds like that may have solved the EMI issue. What a huge pain in the buttocks. You would think with all the issues they have with EMI problems that they would shield all the critical components. We'll know for sure tomorrow if that fixed it but it sure sounded better tonight. Ken

markw · Mar 13, 2019

Well Ken, I hope that works for you. I spent months with this thing before we got it running. The smallest electrical gremlin will send it off. Also went through 2 in tank fuel pumps. But it runs great now!

BigB · Mar 14, 2019

bronkenn said:
I talked to Fitech and they told me it would be OK to break in engine but to adjust the IAC screw in until it ran at 2000-2500 rpms. I couldn't imagine having to run with a carb and than switching back. There would be a lot involved with that. Fuel pump and distributor along with plumbing and wiring. I'll keep plugging away at it but it does make you rethink some decisions. I used to be pretty good at tuning Holley carbs and these things kind of need a little more technical knowledge but at least we have the internet for investigating. I know there is a Fitech group on Facebook but I don't have that. Thanks for the replies, Ken

Perhaps you could have just used a fuel pressure regulator at the carb and not had to change any plumbing?

Moot point now mate and hope it works out for you but I didn't think it was good to stop and start when breaking an engine in.

I'm going to be breaking in a 390 soon and will be doing it with a carb and then put either fitech or sniper on it.

bronkenn · Mar 15, 2019

BigB said:
Perhaps you could have just used a fuel pressure regulator at the carb and not had to change any plumbing?

Moot point now mate and hope it works out for you but I didn't think it was good to stop and start when breaking an engine in.

I talked to Comp Cams about that. They said no problem just don't let it idle. They say it happens quite a bit as things happen at initial fire up like leaks and other unforeseen things.

1strodeo · Mar 15, 2019

glad you got it figured out Ken, I've read good things about Holley tech support, sounds like FiTech support is pretty darn good too -jeff

BigB · Mar 15, 2019

bronkenn said:
I talked to Comp Cams about that. They said no problem just don't let it idle. They say it happens quite a bit as things happen at initial fire up like leaks and other unforeseen things.

Good to know, I guess you can't always believe all the internet guru's! ;D

Make sure you post up a video of it running

bronkenn · Mar 15, 2019

BigB said:
Make sure you post up a video of it running

I don't know how.

bronkenn · Mar 15, 2019

1strodeo said:
glad you got it figured out Ken, I've read good things about Holley tech support, sounds like FiTech support is pretty darn good too -jeff

I was worried about that as well. They were pretty good at helping me and it does depend on who you get on the line.

BigB · Mar 16, 2019

bronkenn said:
I don't know how.

Post it on youtube and just add a link.

DirtDonk · Mar 16, 2019

bronkenn said:
I talked to Comp Cams about that. They said no problem just don't let it idle. They say it happens quite a bit as things happen at initial fire up like leaks and other unforeseen things.

Absolutely correct. Crap happens and you just have to shut it down to fix that pesky fuel leak, or when you forget to install the clip that holds the C4 modulator, the trans fluid Exxon Valdez puddle.;D
Or if it just runs hot and you want to let it cool down for a bit.

For that last reason many of my initial startups have gone 10 or 15 minutes in two or three sessions, instead of the proscribed 20 to 30 minutes in one long session. Nothing wrong with heating and cooling cycles thrown into the mix, and in fact they can help in some ways too.
And if for no other reason, those running their break-in without mufflers can take it easy on their ears, and the non-car loving neighbors sanity.

Maybe the statements that you might find saying you can't turn it off probably just mis-interpreted the process and the dire warnings about letting it idle and just went from there with assumptions without really thinking it through.
It's really all about keeping the cam lobes heavily lubricated during the first minimum of 20 min. I still use 25 to 30 minutes just because that's what the process called for the first time I did it years ago.

Paul

SC74 · Mar 21, 2019

bronkenn said:
Well after a few trial and errors and trying to eliminate every obvious cause I think I may have figured it out with the help of the tech line.

That is good to hear. I don't have any experience with FiTech but have always heard that their tech support was not so good. This is the first I've actually heard of it being positive so maybe they got the message too. Congrats on getting it going and look forward to seeing it at the Super Celebration.

bronkenn · Apr 22, 2019

So I think this Fitech problem may be solved. While I was at the SC earlier this month I was talking to a fellow with a Fitech unit and he was checking mine out and we were talking about my interference issues with the distributor and the ECM. He said he was working with Tom of Lick Creek and said he had a lot of experience with the Fitech. A couple days later I stopped by his truck and Tom was there talking to him and he brought up my issues. Tom said he has installed a lot of them with no problem. He asked what distributor I was using and I told him it was a Jeg's brand 2 wire unit. He said he always used MSD with no problems and I told him the Jeg's was basically the same, it is a billet with the same magnetic pick up as MSD and was made in the U.S. He said it sounded like it could be the cap, maybe a crack or something. When I got home I did some research and found out Jeg's cap was made of a different material than MSD's cap. Ordered a cap from MSD and installed it and removed all my shielding material and fired it up. It runs great now. The MSD cap definitely is made to contain the magnetic impulses from the pick up. A big shout out to Tom for his advice and maybe this will steer someone else in the right direction in the future. Thanks Tom, Ken

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