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Old 05/16/19, 09:08 PM   #1
CarsandBars
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Front axle binding while turning

Hello,

Maybe some one can chime in I did front disc brake conversion 600 miles ago it was pulled out of a 1969 bronco and installed it on my 1972 bronco.It was pretty much brand new. I bolted everything up and torqued everything correctly followed directions to the tee. It spins freely as it should and stops great. The only thing I noticed is after stopping and going to turn right it binds and clunks a little. I can feel it in the bronco. I am trying to trouble shoot it and put the front axle up on jack stands but can’t mimic the binding action when rotating the wheel. The u joints look old but the ball joints are new. There is play within the axle back and forth leading up to the spindle and slinger. Am I missing something here. Do I need different axles or is this play normal. Should I be looking in other areas. Btw the bearings are new and seals as well.

Thank you
Derek
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Old 05/16/19, 09:21 PM   #2
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The inner axle to axle tube is correct.
The outer axle to spindle, sort of, depends. The GM brakes put the snap ring in a different location. On GM brakes on a Ford axle you cannot install the small snap ring. In general people just leave it off. Most of the time this is not a problem.

Before we goo deep down this rabbit hole, lets make sure we have the right rabbit hole. What is the binding? Does the steering not want to straighten back up after a turn? Does the steering pulse in a turn? Does the Bronco surge in a turn? Does it feel like the brakes are applied in a turn? Binding in a turn leave a LOT to interpretation. Give us a better description.

I'll start with the very basics. Hubs unlocked? Transfer case really in 2WD? (you should be able to reach under the Bronco and freely spin the front driveshaft if all is correctly disconnected). Do you have any locker/spool/limited slip in either axle? Have you had the alignment checked since the axle swap? What are the alignment numbers?

"She's built like a steakhouse but she handles like a bistro"-Zapp Brannigan
Why do people keep expecting "normal" from me?
Full throttle, it either solves the problem or ends the suspense.
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Old 05/16/19, 09:32 PM   #3
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The power steering is brand new. Steering straightens up fine. It is in 2wd with the hubs unlocked. It’s almost like the brakes don’t release until I straighten the wheel. But when I had the bronco up in the air and turn the wheel and spin the wheel it spins freely. As I am going to release the brakes while turning and pressing the gas it pulses and clunks till I straighten the wheel out. The front wheels make noise on the pavement like it’s fighting to move.
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Old 05/16/19, 10:42 PM   #4
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I would double check the rear end. If the spider gears have seized and turned the rear into a spool it would do a lot of what you describe. But not everything.

If all the hubs and transfer care are unlocked, the U-joints in the front shouldn't matter. If the U-joint was half seized it would pulse in turns but only if the front axle was engaged. Else you might have some stiff steering.

"She's built like a steakhouse but she handles like a bistro"-Zapp Brannigan
Why do people keep expecting "normal" from me?
Full throttle, it either solves the problem or ends the suspense.
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Old 05/17/19, 05:51 AM   #5
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Probably not related to your binding issue, but the axle shaft at the u-joint knuckle does not look centered in relation to the axle opening or the hub mount bosses. Is the inner spindle bearing in good shape?

1967 Body over 1971.5 Frame and running gear, 3.5" lift, all stock except what's not
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Old 05/17/19, 08:56 AM   #6
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First thing i would do is jack up the rear and chock the front tires. Then remove the rear driveshaft. Lock the hubs and shift the transfer case in 4wd high and drive the truck. That will isolate the front and the rear. If the problem is gone its a rear end or rear drive shaft issue. If the problem is still there its a front end issue.

1974, stock 302, C4, BFG KM2 33x12.5x15, 8in rim, detroit rear, trutrac front 4.11 gearing, Warflairs,2.5" lift, chevy disc conversion, Hydraboost, owned since Christmas Eve 1977
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Old 05/17/19, 09:17 AM   #7
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When the brakes were originally installed did you grind enough off the knuckles for clearance?
On the flip side of that, if you did grind the knuckle, did you perhaps grind into the steering stop for clearance? Mine is ground pretty far in and it allows me to turn the steering farther than normal, which actually makes rolling a little harder because the tires are turned so sharply.

Good luck. But check the caliper clearance first.
If you can't see daylight/ground between the caliper and knuckle, you need to grind more.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

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Old 05/17/19, 10:49 AM   #8
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Check both axle shaft u-joints. I had a D30 with a 1/2 seized joint on 1 side that would make it impossible to turn the wheel in either direction depending on which way the joint was facing. The front shafts still rotate in 2wd and if you end up in a position where the seized or partially seized joint is in the north-south direction it will cause problems.
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Old 05/17/19, 01:38 PM   #9
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It was the damn rear end the whole time. Something is acting up in the limited slip and binding while turning. Thank you all for your help
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Old 05/17/19, 03:28 PM   #10
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If it's just when turning sharp, and if it's a relatively new limited-slip, you may just need to add some "Stinky-Lube" to the mix.

Did anything change in the rear end recently? Changed the oil maybe? Completely new diff?
Might just need the right additive, or more of it. My Motorsport/Ford Racing Tracklock(sp?) took two full tubes of the friction modifier to quiet down the clutches when making super tight turns.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 05/17/19, 07:52 PM   #11
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Only thing I did was about 600 miles ago was change the diff fluid and put a new pinion seal in. Maybe the new diff fluid is causing some issues.
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Old 05/17/19, 08:30 PM   #12
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Absolutely possible.
If you do indeed have a limited-slip diff with good tight clutches, that 600 miles would be more than enough to have rid themselves of the old oil and be soaked to the bone with the new, less compatible oil.

Even when an oil says it's "compatible with" or "suitable for" or "recommended to use with" limited-slips, every one is different and that's why some still need the friction modifier additive. It comes in small bottles or tubes and is meant as a supplement to gear oil.
The stuff I used originally in mine was Sta-Lube brand for limited slips, but it apparently did not have near enough friction modifier in it (if any) so I needed two bottles to get rid of the "grunching" sound when backing up and turning.
In my case it did not do it often in forward motion, but literally every time I was in reverse and turning it would do it.

So yes, it's very possible this is your only issue.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 05/20/19, 03:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtDonk View Post
When the brakes were originally installed did you grind enough off the knuckles for clearance?
On the flip side of that, if you did grind the knuckle, did you perhaps grind into the steering stop for clearance? Mine is ground pretty far in and it allows me to turn the steering farther than normal, which actually makes rolling a little harder because the tires are turned so sharply.

Good luck. But check the caliper clearance first.
If you can't see daylight/ground between the caliper and knuckle, you need to grind more.

Paul
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Old 05/20/19, 04:15 PM   #14
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I thought I had a front tire rub once, turned out to be clutch chatter in the rear.
Found that my Trac-Lok didn't like synthetic gear lube.

'74 U151 Bronco Explorer, WH 2.5" SL, C4, 33's, 4.11's, Aussie locker up front, factory LS in back, 351W, Edelbrock intake, Summit 500 CFM carb, stock hood, no BL, no problem, Flowmaster 50's.
'99 F250 V10 ridin' on 35's. '97 Explorer 5.0
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