• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Slotted rotors

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,630
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Been seeing guys running slotted or vented rotors on here lately. In the past there were posts of any guys running em having issues with warping and stuff. I think due to bigger tires(33+) so most avoided em. Has something changed?
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
I can’t imagine using brakes at high speed being an issue, on a Bronco. Standard rotors have been adequate for years on these.

Mark
 
OP
OP
S

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,630
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
I just remember any time somebody tried the slotted rotors there were issues. Now I'm seeing guys running em lately
 

jedblake

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
659
Loc.
Boulder City, NV
Recently installed an aftermarket power disk kit for a 66 mustang I6. Came with drilled rotors. Maybe that's the norm now for resellers in ordering bulk parts for their kits?
It works and fit great.
 

Master Chief

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
1,204
Steve,

I put drilled/slotted rotors on mine ('76 axles) earlier this summer and have several thousand miles on them without warping. The stopping distance between the factory rotors and these linked below from Summit is like the difference between day and night. I cannot imagine that I will ever run anything different.

Right rotor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BR-65013RC
Left rotor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BR-65013LC
Pads: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-16-050

I also replaced the factory dust shields because the original ones were in terrible condition: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Disc-Brake-Dust-Shields-Galvanized/productinfo/12205/

Roger
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,098
Any perceived increase in stopping ability is due to the pads and not the rotors.

Todd Z.
 
OP
OP
S

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,630
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
I know guys were running em on cars but at that time anybody who tried em on their broncos h as d issues. It was to the point most threads about em were filled with I told you so's. I just wondered what changed if guys are having success with em now.
 

spap

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
2,469
Knowing some people in the business, with slotted and or drilled rotors you are actually losing surface area of the rotor which decreases efficiency. Also, they said never used an inexpensive drilled rotor because they will crack, that’s why the high quality ones are not cheap. Slotted is a better way to go if you drive your bronco to the point of over heating the brakes
Agree, I think pads make a huge difference but with ceramic pads you are going to get rotor wear
Just .02
 

tabyers

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
379
Loc.
Indiana
I would think F1 rotors would be the pinnacle of heat dissipation technology. Apple to Oranges, but that is also the point.
For a more direct application, here’s a pic of some guys that run pretty fast in hot conditions

e6dc0e2523c2ab6ff185ec61bab0083a.jpg


b1d28e525a5afb7510886df9274d7e7b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,478
The big issue in the past was cracks between the holes. Don't remember hearing anything about slots having issues, but might have missed it.
It could make sense though, by thinning out the rotor especially if the producer went too deep.
I have had more standard rotors warp on me than drilled and slotted, but that's a fairly limited gene pool to make any real hard and fast rules about.

When the rotors are actually "drilled" as opposed to other methods, the cracks seem to form more quickly. If they are cast in during manufacture, or broached after it's much less of an issue.
But in most cases for most street users the cracks do not seem to cause trouble unless they get really bad. In racing of course, I've heard of rotors self-destructing, but seen standard rotors do that too, and don't remember hearing that the modifications were always at fault.
Even the manufacturers say that slight cracking of the surface between the holes is not a sign of imminent doom. Truck rotors likely get put through more heat and load under normal conditions than a lighter vehicle would though, so go with your gut. If you're not sure you need the added cooling with your heavy and vented rotors, keep 'em smooth.

If you experience fading regularly and have tried different pad materials, I would think drilled and slotted, or just slotted, might be a good next step.
And yes, the F1 stuff is apples and oranges nowadays especially. The old ones were often drilled and slotted, but with the new carbon ceramic rotors, it's not the same thing. Probably not even an option to molest the friction surface. Might cause stress risers and major explosions.
That's some pretty high-tech stuff though, so you never know what they're going to come up with next.

Drilled and slotted street rotors are a very common modification. More now than ever, even by some big name companies. Centric and Raybestos for two. Of course companies like Wilwood and Baer and others too.
If they're causing more trouble I'm sure they'll get called out about it and ruled out of existence either by the market or government.

As always, use common sense and if in doubt, don't do it.
For now I trust them for my particular use. I only install them when the regular ones wear out though. Don't like wasting perfectly good parts.

Paul
 

centex77

Full Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
183
I've run slotted rotors on my HD trucks with no warpage running 35" tires and towing trailers. All of my sports cars run them also and again no issues with warping. The slots don't help with stopping distance. They help dissipate the heat and gasses that are built up under hard braking which keeps everything cooler which helps with brake fade which is what causes longer stopping distances. So they don't decrease stopping distance, they help maintain your current stopping distance longer.

Personally, I see no benefit on a bronco other than looks or if you are racing. A standard vented rotor will work just fine.

1977 Ford Bronco/Fiberglass Body/302 bored .030/balanced/Twisted Wedge aluminum heads/cam/5spd/Locked w/ 4.10’s/35” BFG/4” suspension/3” body
 

dougsride

Full Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
198
if slotted rotors are prone to cracking then motorcyclists are in a heap of trouble. my 2003 impala warped out the rotors in 30 k miles, put on drilled and slotted rotors and sold it at 203k miles with the same rotors. I have had both slotted and drilled rotors on my vehicles for years ,both hd trucks, cars and broncos with no problems.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,758
Loc.
San Martin, CA
I've run slotted rotors on my HD trucks with no warpage running 35" tires and towing trailers. All of my sports cars run them also and again no issues with warping. The slots don't help with stopping distance. They help dissipate the heat and gasses that are built up under hard braking which keeps everything cooler which helps with brake fade which is what causes longer stopping distances. So they don't decrease stopping distance, they help maintain your current stopping distance longer.

Personally, I see no benefit on a bronco other than looks or if you are racing. A standard vented rotor will work just fine.

So as said previously, depending on pad material composition, better pads will give you better braking. Organic, semi-metallic, metallic, ceramic. Prices go up as you go up this list, as does braking quality and repetitive braking quality. And there is even more to this when you upgrade to multiple piston calipers, larger and thicker rotors, etc. But running a ceramic pad on a street driven Bronco would be a waste since you never get them hot enough to make them function correctly.
Slotted and drilled rotors help dissipate heat and allow off gassing from the pads as they heat up. Off gassing from the pads can affect braking quality, so by helping it escape you get better sustained braking.
More than likely, if you drill and slot a rotor, you are looking at a one time use... Cannot be turned on a lathe and if you did you make it thinner and more prone to warping. Track cars brakes are a disposable item, so all you want them to do is work for the event you are entered in.
Drilled rotors tend to crack when heated between the holes... As said depending the manufacturer, there may not be cause for alarm. But multiple cracks are not good.
Slots, well I have run them on my 3/4 Super duty for years, with aftermarket pads without issue. I am partial to them. But when I do a brake job, the rotors are not reused.
I am not telling you what to run, it is your money do as you see fit. But for a street driven or off road driven Bronco it seems like a waste. New factory rotors, with a metallic pad and hydroboost will greatly improve your braking.
Desert racers, a whole other animal...
 
Top