Just curious on the progress of this new tank design. I'm literally days away from ordering one of the current 23 gallon EFI offerings.
Just curious on the progress of this new tank design. I'm literally days away from ordering one of the current 23 gallon EFI offerings.
This is the current update as of this morning 03/05/21. Laser cut parts arrived last Friday evening so assembly will start this week. We are on schedule to have a prototype on display at the show as of right now, hoping to have a couple working prototypes installed also. Only 2 weeks left for us so a lot has to fall into place in order for this to happen. Worst case we will have a table top display. The final design has it almost 4" shorter than the other options as well as a provision to correct for the fuel gauge issue. It is looking like total capacity is going to be 21 gallons, I will update those numbers for actual capacity and actual useable capacity when we do some at-the-pump tests. Calculated useable capacity is looking like it will be 20 or very close to it. The tank will be sold in bare stainless finish, you can have the option of painting it if you desire. We may also add a brushed option as well down the road but the forming process is leaving mill marks on the plate. Someone could spend the time to sand and polish them if they wished as well. The mounting system will be shown at the show. It is very streamlined, non intrusive and leaves a ton of room for exhaust routing as well and has already been verified with all of Duffs systems including some that we have in development that will be available this summer available through Duffs.
Maybe the coffee isn't working yet but how does the rear end not hit that "kick-out" in the front of the tank at full droop? If it doesn't, then is there unused space btw the rear pumpkin and the tank then?
Maybe the coffee isn't working yet but how does the rear end not hit that "kick-out" in the front of the tank at full droop? If it doesn't, then is there unused space btw the rear pumpkin and the tank then?
Can't visualize it this am yet! lol
need a notch for the pumkin.. at least for me.
The space we are utilizing resides under the rear cross member. This has also been designed around Duffs Dual Sport 4 link and Monster 4 link for fitment. It clears with still enough room to push the axle back until the upper truss collides with that cross member and that will happen before it hits the tank at full compression. We also verified this without the shocks installed and went to full coil bind with no issues. We have 2 broncos in the shop with those suspensions on them and a cardboard mock up was used to verify clearance.
Just picked finished the dual sport install - would love to pick up this tank soon!
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The overall concept looks really nice and will work great when installed. If you were looking for feedback, there are some things you could do to lower costs. I assume the welding length and jigging add to the cost more than material does, as does the number of individual cut pieces and cut holes (length of cut and piercings for laser cutting). At the risk of giving unsolicited feedback, here are a few ideas:
I really like that you have tabs and receiving slots to help align and position parts in relation to each other. But I would make that slot as short as possible because it's just added weld time and perhaps more opportunity to leak at the weld.
I would reduce the number of holes in the system (in the baffles, for example), and move the exchange between the regions within the tank to the perimeter of the baffle sheet. Fewer pierces with the laser will reduce cost for the parts.
I think there is also a way to simplify the bulged section of the tank so that you don't have a bunch of separate parts coming together. I like that you integrated the angled front pieces into the bulge. I wouldn't cut the entire front section out to fit-in the bulge - you could build the tank like a regular tank with an intact front wall and then have holes cut out at the top and bottom of the bulge on the front wall to allow gas/air to flow in and out easily. So the bulge is almost scabbed onto the side rather than an integral part of the tank structure.
The recessed area on the top for the fuel pump could be cut in position and bent down (bend would be where the flat recess and front wall intersect.
The strip that makes up the side wall of the recess could be a little taller than the open slot so you are welding a T joint vs a corner joint (less sensitive to tolerances).
I would look into making the main tank body out of 2 large pieces that come together almost like a square tennis ball. Or whichever way reduces weld length and simplifies assembly.
Again - great design and I am interested in buying when you are ready to sell.
Hard to Add much to the discussion. I am living with my 23 gallon EB tank.
I have a lot of experience with custom tanks and aux tanks. I spend half my time wheeling in Baja and 30 gallons is required. Frist rig was a stretched 96 with 55 gallons including the Aux tank. Second rig is a TJU with the Genright 31-32 gallon main tank replacement. The new rig is a Wrangler 21JL with a 12 gallon aux that mounts between the tailgate and the spare (Not for and EB so installing would be a project – don’t be afraid).
1) Gauges: I used one that was calibrate at first fill. Unlimited points for the memory. Custom digital display was selectable gallons or Liters remaining or quantity or ¼, ½, ¾, full. Worked great for a tank that liquid level was not proportional to liquid height. Common in aircraft tanks and any odd ball tank shape. Most are digital which I do not favor. Anyway, the things are accurate. I chose 2 gal between points on a 30 gallon tank. Make your own adapter to fit the tank. Comes with its custom a digital gauge that will not match you now have. Used that gauge on the 96 aux tank but could be adapted to the main tank which used the Ford stock setup. Other gauges I tried were a waste of time/expense and too had many issues. Most difficult was a Ford float gauge on the 96 AUX tank. I never got the float set correctly. The 96 main tank with stock float had the same issue. I got them close and said enough is enough.
2) Cost: Tank cost is an issue. The 96 was all custom and the cost was extremely high and had several do overs. The aluminum Genriight with steel skid was 32 gal and around 2k and the latest Titan 12 gal aux is around 500. The only setup that did not have significant issues would be Genright. They know how to do it. It uses the stock Jeep float sender so it has the built in inaccuracy and for sure it is not linear.
3) Leaks: None of my custom tanks have the expansion issue, but My 23 gallon EB BCB tank leaks fumes when hot thru my vent. More expansion volume would be good. The 72 EB has a small catch tank so all I get is fumes. A bigger catch tank would help. So, if you leak gas when the tank gets hot consider a 1.5 gallon catch tank. Mount it above the tank so it drains back.