• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

What disc brake kit to buy?

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
After buying and driving my bronco, I’m eager to get started on it. First thing that needs to be done is disc brakes (nearly died several times with the current drum brakes). Couple of questions..
1. Should I go with 4 wheel disc setup? I’ve read that the rears warp and there’s a problem with the e brake on 4 wheel setups.
2. Which kit brand should I go with? I’d like to get something that makes the truck safer.

I should mention that this will be a street truck only, 2.5” lift 31” tires.

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:

56f100bbw

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 3, 2008
Messages
2,286
Loc.
Tucson / lakeside AZ
I have a 76 and 77 Factory set up disc brakes drum rear and they stop great and my 71 half cab took out the the dana 44 with drums and 410 gears set up and replaced it with a 77 front end 3:50 street driven all with front factory sway bar
 

bchesley

Full Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2012
Messages
327
Any disc brake kit for the front will make it safer, but not all kits are the same. I am a fan of using Ford parts from a 76 or 77. First, its ford and I can get parts anywhere, and It allows the use of a larger u-joint on the axle shafts greatly improving durability with larger tires or high horse power. If you don't need the additional durability pick what ever kit you want. They are all GM derived kits. As for the rear, I would add front disc first and then see if rear disc are really even needed.

PS. all ford parts or exact replacements for the 76/77 knuckle are available from several venders if you want new parts.
 

hyghlndr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
5,020
Loc.
Hockessin, Delaware
Disc in front and drums in rear. Duffs make a great kit and it uses Ford parts. On YouTube there is a video about improving stopping over the GM based setup.
 
OP
OP
S

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
rear discs

Disc in front and drums in rear. Duffs make a great kit and it uses Ford parts. On YouTube there is a video about improving stopping over the GM based setup.

The duffs kit is like three times as expensive as most others, is it really that much better?
 

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
The duffs kit is like three times as expensive as most others, is it really that much better?

Well...I don't know if this is a serious question or not... But, let me explain**-

The Monster Disc Brake System from Duff's:

1) First of all, there is no other kit on the market like it. Your statement of "three times as much" is inaccurate both in it's quantifier, and in its implication that it is the same as "most others".

2) Duff's manufactures their own steering knuckles and caliper mounting brackets (to original Ford mounting specs). You cannot get these anywhere else...unless those are Duff's, too.
A) The steering knuckle castings are a redesigned, and strengthened, version of the original Ford disc brake knuckles. However, when Ford changed to disc brakes, they also opened up the width of the tie rod connection on the knuckles (steering arms). This width increase made it incredibly difficult to run anything wider than a 7.5" wheel, even with perfect backspacing. Otherwise, the tie rod contacts the inside of the wheel. This forces you to use spacers, move to 16" or larger wheels, or just live with a narrow wheel.
The Duff steering knuckle puts the taper back into the arm. This allows you to run 15x10 wheels without contacting the tie rod.
B) 0.030" is added to every part of the web and anywhere in the casting (as long as it does not prevent mounting original components). Just stand a Duff casting next to an original knuckle. The difference is obvious.
C) The steering arm is machined to a 3/4" through-bore. This allows you to bolt-in a heim steering system without drilling the knuckles. But, they include tapered bushings with the kits if you want to run stock tie rod setups.
D) The hub and rotor assembly are Ford specific units, not redrilled "other" assemblies.
E) The caliper mounting brackets are new castings. They accept stock 1976-1977 Ford Bronco brake calipers, hoses, and pads. Not only are these included in the Duff brake systems, but replacements are readily available at any auto parts store of your choosing.
F) Duff's offers the "T-Bird Upgrade" and does the necessary machining for you. It also includes custom hoses to adapt to the Bronco installation. These items are offered as replacement parts as well. Same pads, 20% more surface area of clamping force.

3) Duff's also includes a master cylinder that is matched to your system needs. This is far more than just "bore size". It involves chamber size; orifice size; combination or proportioning valve; engine vacuum; disc/disc or disc/drum; parking brake or no parking brake; etc. Duff's stocks at least half a dozen, custom-spec'd master cylinders to make the system operate to its fullest potential.

4) In addition to the brake components, the Duff system includes new, correct spindles; spindle bearings; the hub and ball joint tool; HD ball joints; all the seals and bearings from the knuckles out; new spindle nuts; mounting bracket; and all hardware. And, again, all of these replacement components can be purchased locally in the future (although the Duff replacement prices often make it less expensive to get from them than to purchase yourself).

5) All of this is offered at a price less than the cost of basic disc brake "conversion" for almost every "muscle car" ever built.

On top of all this, you get the best tech and troubleshooting in the business. Although you may not enjoy the process, you get access to someone who understands true diagnostics...and can walk you through it. Not just a "well, maybe you should buy this...or try this..."

And, to top it all off, Duff's is now a distributor for hydroboost, by Hydratech Braking Systems. They even have their own, Bronco vendor exclusive, "no mod" mounting bracket for hydroboost...an industry first. It does not require cutting the firewall to mount (specific configurations necessary).

Hope that helps clear up any misunderstanding about "comparisons".


** Disclaimer:
Not only do I own my own shop, building Broncos that you can actually enjoy, I am the lead tech for James Duff Inc.

I, personally, spent over three years developing and dialing in the Monster Disc Brake System for Duff's. Recently, James Duff invested thousands of dollars in objectively testing every braking configuration known for Broncos: from bone stock, 4 wheel, manual drums; all the way to hydroboost, with 4 wheel disc brakes and tall tires. And, they video recorded it for proof, posterity, and just plain fun (Who doesn't love to see a 4-wheel lock up and slide on 35's!).

I have been a builder for over 30 years, including hot rods, street rods, rat rods, bracket racers, minitrucks, lowriders, and, of course, Broncos. I am also an enthusiast who cares more about performance than looks.

I received personal training, and a professional endorsement, from Paul Clark, owner and founder of Hydratech Braking Systems.

I received no compensation or accommodations for this post.
 
Last edited:

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
After buying and driving my bronco, I’m eager to get started on it. First thing that needs to be done is disc brakes (nearly died several times with the current drum brakes). Couple of questions..
1. Should I go with 4 wheel disc setup? I’ve read that the rears warp and there’s a problem with the e brake on 4 wheel setups.
2. Which kit brand should I go with? I’d like to get something that makes the truck safer.

I should mention that this will be a street truck only, 2.5” lift 31” tires.

Thanks in advance!

Disc up front and rebuilt and properly adjusted drums out back will be more than sufficient for your setup.

IMHO, four wheel discs are overrated for most EBs. Unless regularly towing, tires 35” or larger, etc., a well-designed, properly adjusted and maintained “stock-style” disc/drum combination will not only prove affordable, but reliable, and more easily serviced in the future.
 
OP
OP
S

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
Well...I don't know if this is a serious question or not... But, let me explain**-

The Monster Disc Brake System from Duff's:

1) First of all, there is no other kit on the market like it. Your statement of "three times as much" is inaccurate both in it's quantifier, and in its implication that it is the same as "most others".

2) Duff's manufactures their own steering knuckles and caliper mounting brackets (to original Ford mounting specs). You cannot get these anywhere else...unless those are Duff's, too.
A) The steering knuckle castings are a redesigned, and strengthened, version of the original Ford disc brake knuckles. However, when Ford changed to disc brakes, they also opened up the width of the tie rod connection on the knuckles (steering arms). This width increase made it incredibly difficult to run anything wider than a 7.5" wheel, even with perfect backspacing. Otherwise, the tie rod contacts the inside of the wheel. This forces you to use spacers, move to 16" or larger wheels, or just live with a narrow wheel.
The Duff steering knuckle puts the taper back into the arm. This allows you to run 15x10 wheels without contacting the tie rod.
B) 0.030" is added to every part of the web and anywhere in the casting (as long as it does not prevent mounting original components). Just stand a Duff casting next to an original knuckle. The difference is obvious.
C) The steering arm is machined to a 3/4" through-bore. This allows you to bolt-in a heim steering system without drilling the knuckles. But, they include tapered bushings with the kits if you want to run stock tie rod setups.
D) The hub and rotor assembly are Ford specific units, not redrilled "other" assemblies.
E) The caliper mounting brackets are new castings. They accept stock 1976-1977 Ford Bronco brake calipers, hoses, and pads. Not only are these included in the Duff brake systems, but replacements are readily available at any auto parts store of your choosing.
F) Duff's offers the "T-Bird Upgrade" and does the necessary machining for you. It also includes custom hoses to adapt to the Bronco installation. These items are offered as replacement parts as well. Same pads, 20% more surface area of clamping force.

3) Duff's also includes a master cylinder that is matched to your system needs. This is far more than just "bore size". It involves chamber size; orifice size; combination or proportioning valve; engine vacuum; disc/disc or disc/drum; parking brake or no parking brake; etc. Duff's stocks at least half a dozen, custom-spec'd master cylinders to make the system operate to its fullest potential.

4) In addition to the brake components, the Duff system includes new, correct spindles; spindle bearings; the hub and ball joint tool; HD ball joints; all the seals and bearings from the knuckles out; new spindle nuts; mounting bracket; and all hardware. And, again, all of these replacement components can be purchased locally in the future (although the Duff replacement prices often make it less expensive to get from them than to purchase yourself).

5) All of this is offered at a price less than the cost of basic disc brake "conversion" for almost every "muscle car" ever built.

On top of all this, you get the best tech and troubleshooting in the business. Although you may not enjoy the process, you get access to someone who understands true diagnostics...and can walk you through it. Not just a "well, maybe you should buy this...or try this..."

And, to top it all off, Duff's is now a distributor for hydroboost, by Hydratech Braking Systems. They even have their own, Bronco vendor exclusive, "no mod" mounting bracket for hydroboost...an industry first. It does not require cutting the firewall to mount (specific configurations necessary).

Hope that helps clear up any misunderstanding about "comparisons".


** Disclaimer:
Not only do I own my own shop, building Broncos that you can actually enjoy, I am the lead tech for James Duff Inc.

I, personally, spent over three years developing and dialing in the Monster Disc Brake System for Duff's. Recently, James Duff invested thousands of dollars in objectively testing every braking configuration known for Broncos: from bone stock, 4 wheel, manual drums; all the way to hydroboost, with 4 wheel disc brakes and tall tires. And, they video recorded it for proof, posterity, and just plain fun (Who doesn't love to see a 4-wheel lock up and slide on 35's!).

I have been a builder for over 30 years, including hot rods, street rods, rat rods, bracket racers, minitrucks, lowriders, and, of course, Broncos. I am also an enthusiast who cares more about performance than looks.

I received personal training, and a professional endorsement, from Paul Clark, owner and founder of Hydratech Braking Systems.

I received no compensation or accommodations for this post.

It costs 1900$ for just the front conversion. No hubs included. Most other sites offer 4 wheel conversions plus hubs included for less than that. Not sure why you feel insulted? Your kit is definitely the most expensive, and I’m not saying it’s not better, I was just curious if in the real world there’s a difference. Thanks for the answer though.
 

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
It costs 1900$ for just the front conversion. No hubs included. Most other sites offer 4 wheel conversions plus hubs included for less than that. Not sure why you feel insulted? Your kit is definitely the most expensive, and I’m not saying it’s not better, I was just curious if in the real world there’s a difference. Thanks for the answer though.[/

Who felt insulted? I answered the question and supported it with facts. No emotion was involved. The intent was to show why it is better...wasn’t that the question?
 
OP
OP
S

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
It costs 1900$ for just the front conversion. No hubs included. Most other sites offer 4 wheel conversions plus hubs included for less than that. Not sure why you feel insulted? Your kit is definitely the most expensive, and I’m not saying it’s not better, I was just curious if in the real world there’s a difference. Thanks for the answer though.[/

Who felt insulted? I answered the question and supported it with facts. No emotion was involved. The intent was to show why it is better...wasn’t that the question?

You started off your reply with “I do t even know if this is a serious question”, seems like you were implying I am dumb, or you were insulted.
 

hyghlndr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
5,020
Loc.
Hockessin, Delaware
The Duff family are salt of the earth, great people. I think it was a simple misunderstanding.

The kit is more money but as stated it's not an apples to apples comparison. No one sells a new knuckle, let alone an improved one. If I recall the story correctly the molding was something like the cost of a house...
 
OP
OP
S

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
The Duff family are salt of the earth, great people. I think it was a simple misunderstanding.

The kit is more money but as stated it's not an apples to apples comparison. No one sells a new knuckle, let alone an improved one. If I recall the story correctly the molding was something like the cost of a house...

Hence my question, is it necessary for me? I’m just trying to make the truck safe. Much like I’m not looking to upgrade to a coyote engine, I’m also not looking to buy things I don’t “need”. His discussion about the knuckles talks about bri g able to use 10” rims. I’m going stock so I dont think I need to worry about that. I’m not going to overbuild if it doesn’t make sense, I just want it to stop safely. If it makes sense to spend more then I would, but if this kit is for 35” tires and off-roading then I don’t need it.
 

68ford

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
2,710
Well...I don't know if this is a serious question or not... But, let me explain**-

The Monster Disc Brake System from Duff's:

1) First of all, there is no other kit on the market like it. Your statement of "three times as much" is inaccurate both in it's quantifier, and in its implication that it is the same as "most others".

2) Duff's manufactures their own steering knuckles and caliper mounting brackets (to original Ford mounting specs). You cannot get these anywhere else...unless those are Duff's, too.
A) The steering knuckle castings are a redesigned, and strengthened, version of the original Ford disc brake knuckles. However, when Ford changed to disc brakes, they also opened up the width of the tie rod connection on the knuckles (steering arms). This width increase made it incredibly difficult to run anything wider than a 7.5" wheel, even with perfect backspacing. Otherwise, the tie rod contacts the inside of the wheel. This forces you to use spacers, move to 16" or larger wheels, or just live with a narrow wheel.
The Duff steering knuckle puts the taper back into the arm. This allows you to run 15x10 wheels without contacting the tie rod.
B) 0.030" is added to every part of the web and anywhere in the casting (as long as it does not prevent mounting original components). Just stand a Duff casting next to an original knuckle. The difference is obvious.
C) The steering arm is machined to a 3/4" through-bore. This allows you to bolt-in a heim steering system without drilling the knuckles. But, they include tapered bushings with the kits if you want to run stock tie rod setups.
D) The hub and rotor assembly are Ford specific units, not redrilled "other" assemblies.
E) The caliper mounting brackets are new castings. They accept stock 1976-1977 Ford Bronco brake calipers, hoses, and pads. Not only are these included in the Duff brake systems, but replacements are readily available at any auto parts store of your choosing.
F) Duff's offers the "T-Bird Upgrade" and does the necessary machining for you. It also includes custom hoses to adapt to the Bronco installation. These items are offered as replacement parts as well. Same pads, 20% more surface area of clamping force.

3) Duff's also includes a master cylinder that is matched to your system needs. This is far more than just "bore size". It involves chamber size; orifice size; combination or proportioning valve; engine vacuum; disc/disc or disc/drum; parking brake or no parking brake; etc. Duff's stocks at least half a dozen, custom-spec'd master cylinders to make the system operate to its fullest potential.

4) In addition to the brake components, the Duff system includes new, correct spindles; spindle bearings; the hub and ball joint tool; HD ball joints; all the seals and bearings from the knuckles out; new spindle nuts; mounting bracket; and all hardware. And, again, all of these replacement components can be purchased locally in the future (although the Duff replacement prices often make it less expensive to get from them than to purchase yourself).

5) All of this is offered at a price less than the cost of basic disc brake "conversion" for almost every "muscle car" ever built.

On top of all this, you get the best tech and troubleshooting in the business. Although you may not enjoy the process, you get access to someone who understands true diagnostics...and can walk you through it. Not just a "well, maybe you should buy this...or try this..."

And, to top it all off, Duff's is now a distributor for hydroboost, by Hydratech Braking Systems. They even have their own, Bronco vendor exclusive, "no mod" mounting bracket for hydroboost...an industry first. It does not require cutting the firewall to mount (specific configurations necessary).

Hope that helps clear up any misunderstanding about "comparisons".


** Disclaimer:
Not only do I own my own shop, building Broncos that you can actually enjoy, I am the lead tech for James Duff Inc.

I, personally, spent over three years developing and dialing in the Monster Disc Brake System for Duff's. Recently, James Duff invested thousands of dollars in objectively testing every braking configuration known for Broncos: from bone stock, 4 wheel, manual drums; all the way to hydroboost, with 4 wheel disc brakes and tall tires. And, they video recorded it for proof, posterity, and just plain fun (Who doesn't love to see a 4-wheel lock up and slide on 35's!).

I have been a builder for over 30 years, including hot rods, street rods, rat rods, bracket racers, minitrucks, lowriders, and, of course, Broncos. I am also an enthusiast who cares more about performance than looks.

I received personal training, and a professional endorsement, from Paul Clark, owner and founder of Hydratech Braking Systems.

I received no compensation or accommodations for this post.

So duff removed Ackerman from the spindles ? I guess you do what you have to do, but these front ends already have terrible geometry without making it worse.
 

Monster Mike

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
1,768
Hence my question, is it necessary for me? I’m just trying to make the truck safe. Much like I’m not looking to upgrade to a coyote engine, I’m also not looking to buy things I don’t “need”. His discussion about the knuckles talks about bri g able to use 10” rims. I’m going stock so I dont think I need to worry about that. I’m not going to overbuild if it doesn’t make sense, I just want it to stop safely. If it makes sense to spend more then I would, but if this kit is for 35” tires and off-roading then I don’t need it.

With 31" tires you will probably stop and control the Bronco well enough not using a Ford factory setup like the ones Duff offers. Just keep in mind that is the best (safest) braking system we have tested so far and uses all Stock Ford Bronco components you can buy at any parts house. We will be testing your exact setup, GM vs Ford in the next couple months. The testing we did recently was with 35" tires only.

Check out the Duff's budget disc brake setup at the link below. It uses an aftermarket slide pin style caliper and caliper mounting bracket but retains the stock Ford Dana 30 & 44 hub and spindle.

https://www.dufftuff.com/Early_Bronco_Budget_Disc_Brake_Base_System_p/3778.htm

I will stress, this kit is for the budget minded guy who has his own tools, knows how to use a grinder to clearance the knuckle so it works with the calipers provided and doesnt mind putting in some sweat equity to save some bucks.

Another feature about this kit is it requires the radius on the back of your stock hubs to be turned down on a lathe so the new rotors mate up properly. It is a service offered by James Duff but can also be easily done by a friend or shop with a lathe.

We have a complete video on this setup and how to install it that will be launching soon on the youtube page, Bronco Garage. I recommend checking that youtube channel out and subscribing so you are plugged in and ready for all the new content coming.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXL4iX0NFmtJH3wLVmNA1Qw?view_as=subscriber

Hope that helps.

MM
 
Last edited:

Monster Mike

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
1,768
So duff removed Ackerman from the spindles ? I guess you do what you have to do, but these front ends already have terrible geometry without making it worse.

No. The steering arm on the Duff knuckles is designed very much like the 76-79 F150 4x4 or 78-79 Big Bronco knuckle. The steering arm on the Duff knuckle doesn't kick in towards the wheel like the 76-77 Early Bronco knuckles do which can make contact with aftermarket wheels that are 9" or wider and/or have more than 4" of backspacing.

Duff doesn't make spindles and the Knuckles are machined to factory specs.

MM
 

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
You started off your reply with “I do t even know if this is a serious question”, seems like you were implying I am dumb, or you were insulted.

I definitely want to apologize if that is what you perceived...it was definitely not what I meant.

My lead-in clause was serious...I didn’t know if you seriously wanted to know the differences, or if you were looking more for the, “Do I really need this much system?”. So, I led with that in case I was wrong and you could just ignore my lengthy explanation.

Not that it matters, but I am not the type to offer insults to anyone.I do have a weak spot for satire, but I always hope those instances are obvious.

Again, I apologize for that.

After other responses, it looks like you may be more than happy with the results from one of the more economy-minded kits.

In either event, feel free to call me...either at my number, or at Duff’s from 11-5. I think a bit more discussion will have you getting the system that consumes the least dollars...but makes the most sense.
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,080
And, to top it all off, Duff's is now a distributor for hydroboost, by Hydratech Braking Systems. They even have their own, Bronco vendor exclusive, "no mod" mounting bracket for hydroboost...an industry first. It does not require cutting the firewall to mount (specific configurations necessary).

Just for some clarification, are you saying Hydratech's "no mod" mounting bracket was an industry first? Or that Duff's offering it is an industry first?

Todd Z.
 

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
Just for some clarification, are you saying Hydratech's "no mod" mounting bracket was an industry first? Or that Duff's offering it is an industry first?



Todd Z.
That Duff's is the first Bronco vendor to offer it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Top