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Bump steer gone

jperry1290

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Jul 1, 2010
Messages
908
I ve been in the process of building a TRO Chevy front end. At first the steering was sloppy, but after adding a Wild Horses track bar riser the steering is solid and stays straight. I will add that I needed to use the adjustable track bar as the stock one would have been too short.
 

1strodeo

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yeah can't get rid of my bump steer, been thinking about investing in the WH sway bars
 

1strodeo

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Yeah pretty much, also have the WH 3-way adjustable draglink/tie-rod setup
 

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jperry1290

jperry1290

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Yeah pretty much, also have the WH 3-way adjustable draglink/tie-rod setup

What steering box do you have? My old stock box was shot and had a lot of movement. I built a fresh 4x4x2 box and it was awesomely different. Are you joints tight? There are a lot of posts on here about bump steering.
 

ame

Full Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
191
Yeah pretty much, also have the WH 3-way adjustable draglink/tie-rod setup

It looks like the draglink is much lower then the track bar, that can cause steering wheel feedback with chassis lean, went through it on another vehicle when trying to chase some weird steering feedback.
 

1strodeo

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What steering box do you have? My old stock box was shot and had a lot of movement. I built a fresh 4x4x2 box and it was awesomely different. Are you joints tight? There are a lot of posts on here about bump steering.

It is a 6-turn PS box I believe from a 75, I do believe it has too much play.

It looks like the draglink is much lower then the track bar, that can cause steering wheel feedback with chassis lean, went through it on another vehicle when trying to chase some weird steering feedback.

If you are saying chassis lean as in the lean going around big curves, then yes the wheels want to ‘dig in’ or ‘bite’ and oversteer in the direction of the curve, if that makes sense. I’ll see if I can get a better pic of the front
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
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Jul 1, 2010
Messages
908
Rebuild the steering box or buy one. I did the 4x4x2 myself. It was very easy to do
 

ame

Full Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
191
It is a 6-turn PS box I believe from a 75, I do believe it has too much play.



If you are saying chassis lean as in the lean going around big curves, then yes the wheels want to ‘dig in’ or ‘bite’ and oversteer in the direction of the curve, if that makes sense. I’ll see if I can get a better pic of the front

Gotcha, well definitely start with any worn parts but suspect you may have a geometry issue going on.
 

1strodeo

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After consulting with Paul at WH it appears I do not have the correct tie rods for the spindles or the spindles are reamed out...will get pics later this afternoon of the spindle casting # and calipers etc with the wheel off for help with ID'ing the issue, thanks all.

And don't you mind those booger welds on the drop bracket, it was tight in there ok!??!?! ;D: Skiddy would be proud :D
 

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Justafordguy

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Sep 26, 2009
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6,253
I think someone makes a tapered insert that should fix your problem with those steering knuckles. I can't remember who but maybe someone will know the vendor.
 

WILDHORSES

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Bronco Guru
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Messages
2,196
Loc.
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I think someone makes a tapered insert that should fix your problem with those steering knuckles. I can't remember who but maybe someone will know the vendor.

Appears to be F150 or full size Bronco disc if so these will fix the issue provided parts are not jacked up from running it like the pics show. Add some new tie rod boots also.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tapered_Sleeves_for_F150_Knuckles/Custom_tie_rods

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie-Rod-Dust-Boot/Custom_tie_rods

Jim
 

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DirtDonk

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And regarding the bumpsteer 1strodeo, you still have not rotated your tie-rod up back into position to mimic the original. For now you are also dealing with a trackbar and draglink that are not as parallel as they could be with this setup, AND also more "tie-rod rotation" than you should be.

Loosen the three adjuster sleeves, grab the centerlink and rotate it "up" so that the Zerk fitting on the lower draglink end points up at a 60 degree angle (roughly up at the bottom of the radiator if it's still stock) and much of your other issue will disappear.

You still need the ends fitted of course, but doing all of the above will fine-tune your steering.

Paul
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,747
After consulting with Paul at WH it appears I do not have the correct tie rods for the spindles or the spindles are reamed out...will get pics later this afternoon of the spindle casting # and calipers etc with the wheel off for help with ID'ing the issue, thanks all.

And don't you mind those booger welds on the drop bracket, it was tight in there ok!??!?! ;D: Skiddy would be proud :D

LOL, yes he would...
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
Joined
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Messages
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Man w/the plan..

And regarding the bumpsteer 1strodeo, you still have not rotated your tie-rod up back into position to mimic the original. For now you are also dealing with a trackbar and draglink that are not as parallel as they could be with this setup, AND also more "tie-rod rotation" than you should be.

Loosen the three adjuster sleeves, grab the centerlink and rotate it "up" so that the Zerk fitting on the lower draglink end points up at a 60 degree angle (roughly up at the bottom of the radiator if it's still stock) and much of your other issue will disappear.
 

1strodeo

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And regarding the bumpsteer 1strodeo, you still have not rotated your tie-rod up back into position to mimic the original. For now you are also dealing with a trackbar and draglink that are not as parallel as they could be with this setup, AND also more "tie-rod rotation" than you should be.

Paul

Thanks everyone, hey Paul yes I noticed the zerk facing forward after I posted that pic, as I had read your post in a similar thread in Tech the day before. I'll get on that for sure, and order some of those sleeves. Do you still want to see the part numbers and calipers or are you & Jim pretty confident they're FSB/F150 spindles?

thanks again -Jeff
 

DirtDonk

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I'd still like to see pics. I haven't seen anything regarding the brake calipers themselves, and that would confirm things a bit more. The numbers would cement it.
So when you get a chance. No emergency, as you know you need the sleeves no matter what. So just for the FYI department.

Paul
 

1strodeo

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Yes Sir, oh and by the way I KNOW for a fact I oriented the zerk when I installed the 3-way kit, my guess is the alignment shop did it but like you said even the pros arent always aware of how it should be. ;)
 

1strodeo

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Here are pix, number on spindle steering arm is 620170 -jeff
 

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