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What have you done to your Bronco today?

Howard2x4x4

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Apr 19, 2014
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I removed the caster ends of the DIY rotisserie in order to revamp them so that bumpers and grille could be added. And I burned up my favorite small spinner in doing so. RIP little buddy, ya dun good. Btw, it was smoking when I took the pic, but the smoke doesn't show.
 

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DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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Plug wires, insulators and loom spacers. Need to make them look spiffy.

Presumably at some point you will be ditching the breather filters in favor of a PCV system?
Using breathers only is at the very least going to be messing, but at the very worst a lack of proper PCV system promotes premature engine wear.

Paul
 

Howard2x4x4

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Presumably at some point you will be ditching the breather filters in favor of a PCV system?
Using breathers only is at the very least going to be messing, but at the very worst a lack of proper PCV system promotes premature engine wear.

Paul

Dunno Paul. I scored some pretty tasty NOS Holman/Moody tappet covers a while back that I was planning to use.
 

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DirtDonk

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I scored some pretty tasty NOS Holman/Moody tappet covers a while back that I was planning to use.

Oh man. Yowza those are cool!
For me then the trick becomes how to make a PCV work somewhere else (like in the back of the intake like modern 5.0's had for years) or modify the valve covers (yes, modify the valve covers!!!! Sacrilege!) to look like the racers would have done, with some kind of TIG welded A/N fittings for hoses instead of the filters.

Ok, so now that I'm done with my "stock PCV is best" routine, some will argue that going back to a road-draft tube style setup, or something would be best.
Whatever it is, maybe some way to fit a tubing setup to the existing fittings, so that you're not making permanent changes, then when you're at a car show you can swap the breathers back on.

Just sayin' if you're going to be driving this thing, and especially if you're going to be driving it seldom and mostly for short distances, then you could do a lot worse than to have a PCV system working on your behalf.

But good luck with that choice!;D

Paul
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
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81,734
I removed the caster ends of the DIY rotisserie in order to revamp them so that bumpers and grille could be added. And I burned up my favorite small spinner in doing so. RIP little buddy, ya dun good. Btw, it was smoking when I took the pic, but the smoke doesn't show.

lol, time for new improved spinner :)
 

sprdv1

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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Definitely worth having on there..

Stuck the badges back on after shaving them off 12 years ago
4615d8414ede625c1138853d528fa643.jpg


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

1970 Palmer

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Mar 2, 2020
Messages
455
Oh man. Yowza those are cool!
For me then the trick becomes how to make a PCV work somewhere else (like in the back of the intake like modern 5.0's had for years) or modify the valve covers (yes, modify the valve covers!!!! Sacrilege!) to look like the racers would have done, with some kind of TIG welded A/N fittings for hoses instead of the filters.

Ok, so now that I'm done with my "stock PCV is best" routine, some will argue that going back to a road-draft tube style setup, or something would be best.
Whatever it is, maybe some way to fit a tubing setup to the existing fittings, so that you're not making permanent changes, then when you're at a car show you can swap the breathers back on.

Just sayin' if you're going to be driving this thing, and especially if you're going to be driving it seldom and mostly for short distances, then you could do a lot worse than to have a PCV system working on your behalf.

But good luck with that choice!;D

Paul


X2, I agree with Paul on this one.

The PVC system is important on a street driven engine. Not so important on a race engine because the oil is changed often.. The NOS HM valve covers and breathers are very cool. There's really no reason that you cannot keep the "cool factor" and also have a functioning PCV system.

1) Tig weld an aluminum cap on the inside of the left valve cover, then reinstall the breather on the tube "for looks".

2) go to the right side valve cover and drill and tap the oil filler cap to 1/4" or 3/8" NPT for a 90 degree pipe thread to AN fitting elbow. Make up a nice braided stainless steel hose with -6 AN fittings.

3) route the -6AN PVC hose into the back of the carb below the throttle plates (manifold vacuum). This could be done with a stock Ford carb spacer, or even into the manifold as Ford originally did on the 221 and 260 engines. You can get PCV valves with pipe threads. Caution........make sure you pay attention to the flow direction of the vacuum on the PCV valve when piecing together a system.

It would not be very difficult to have the bling, and also the clean dry engine internals offered by a functioning PCV system. Without a PCV the oil turns milky, and you have condensation forming inside the top of the engine.

I built a system like this on my 32 roadster with 3x2's and a mint set of Moon valve covers that I did not want to modify. It worked just fine for ten years.

John
 

Howard2x4x4

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Wow, wonderful advice, Paul and John, merci beaucoup and danka, danka!! Will do, and will do before driving, but it does put the "driving" further down the road. But hang in there, Ken! Not a lot further down the road, plus it's still not your time yet.
 

JefeAZ

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Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
3,038
Loc.
Tucson
Measuring for steering linkage and it looks like heim steering over to the knuckle is not going to work with the Hellwig sway bar. Turning left, the drag link would contact the bracket.

Ideal setup would be tie rod over and a stock pitman arm. Angles look good here:

rY0zJew.png


With the tie rod under I may have to move the track bar down one hole to get the angles better

LK8dn4d.png


Its looking like the drop pitman arm is not going to work with any of these options. Angles are too far off? It would be even worse with TRO

gpDDa0G.png


Any other options that don't go all the way to the knuckle besides the Ballistic Y link or the Duffs saddle mount? Leaning towards Duffs

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/steering-kit-chevy-tie-rod-ends
https://dufftuff.com/product/heim-joint-steering-systems-1966-77-bronco/

steeringkit-tresteeringkit2_1024x1024.jpeg
YU6SsEy.png
 

gmduncan

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Apr 30, 2019
Messages
355
Loc.
Annapolis
Installed new seals and coated the rear axle with Rust Seal.
 

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DirtDonk

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Its looking like the drop pitman arm is not going to work with any of these options. Angles are too far off? It would be even worse with TRO

Sounds typical. The dropped arm OR the TRO give the draglink a nice shallow angle, but as usual the trick is to then match the trackbar angle.
Sometimes it just involves a custom upper mount to go along with the riser. Use the lower hole in the riser and create a custom upper drop to bring the trackbar into alignment with whatever angle the drag link ends up with.

Any other options that don't go all the way to the knuckle besides the Ballistic Y link or the Duffs saddle mount? Leaning towards Duffs

Sure: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Custom_tie_rods ;D;)

There's the Clydesdale and the 3-way Adjustable. I think we're doing ourselves a disservice by not giving a full writeup on the pages for the #2351 and #2390 offerings. I've tried before, so this is a reminder for me to try again.
They're not just stock replacements, but extra heavy duty versions with regular tie-rod ends and a full centerlink that means you can use it as a TRU standard setup, or turn yours into a TRO with no re-tapering of the tie-rod.
You still have to re-taper the steering arms on the knuckles of course, but then you simply turn the rod ends upside down and leave the tie-rod alone.
Which is a good thing because I think we still have them made out of chrome-moly and it's pretty tough stuff.

All good options really, with the nod going to the Duff stuff if you really want spherical rod ends ("Heim joints"), or ours if you prefer tapered stud type tie- rod ends.
I like Ballistic stuff, but that type of conversion has a few little negatives that need to be addressed.

Just make sure to wait until you get your stuff to mock it up. Each may have a different length drag link. Which means that the angles can change slightly from brand to brand.

Paul
 
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