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Old 06/30/20, 11:55 PM   #1
madcrzydrmr
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35” tires with 2.5” SL, 2” BL Cut

I’m sure this has been answered here, but have searched over the past couple of weeks and have not found any definite answer.

I have 2.5” Duff SL with 2” BL (which actually measures out just over 1.7” BL (guessing compression?)). I’m currently running 33x12.5x15 A/T.

Next batch I’m considering 35x12.5x15 A/T. With the current sus/body lift should the extra tire size fit without much matter?

Current status below:
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71 302 NV3550 Twin Stick 4.88’s Detroit Lock Rear TBP Soft Lock Front ChroMo Axles 2.5" Sus 2" Body 33x12.5x15
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Old 07/01/20, 02:21 AM   #2
DirtDonk
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I'd have to say, based on the pic, that the rear is no problem but that the front might still be too close.
As always, it does depend not only on actual size (whether it's a "small" 35 or a "large" 35 for example) but also on the width and offset of the wheels.

The rear fenders are very widely cut open, but the fronts almost not at all.
Other than that, I have zero experience with the combo. Just a guess based on your pic.

Good luck!

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 07/01/20, 05:08 AM   #3
sprdv1
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Should work. Trim as needed if you plan to off road a bunch.

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Old 07/01/20, 06:00 AM   #4
Slednut10
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Same 2.5" and 2" combo. Your fronts will need some trimming.
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ART
Nothing special 76-M5OD 302 4.56 gears 3.15 D20 35" MTZ's and lots of crap that still needs attention!
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Old 07/01/20, 06:36 AM   #5
frenchy
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Hi, should work but like all have said probably need to trim front. I would buy some flares for front and rear and cut the front and add them. Make it look like slednut10's Bronco.
You should be golden then!

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Old 07/01/20, 07:24 AM   #6
sprdv1
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37s with a 3.5" SL and 2" BL
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Old 07/01/20, 08:47 AM   #7
madcrzydrmr
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Thanks for the input. I have no problem cutting the front and gathered that I would have to. My main concern was the inner clearance. The setup is 50/50 street/trail with emphasis on trail.

71 302 NV3550 Twin Stick 4.88’s Detroit Lock Rear TBP Soft Lock Front ChroMo Axles 2.5" Sus 2" Body 33x12.5x15
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Old 07/01/20, 08:53 AM   #8
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I'm debating going to 35's on the next set also. The part that's concerning me is I like the drivability of the 4.11's, C-4, and 33's set up I have now. I wish the first gear of the C-4 wasn't so poopy.
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74 EB, disc brake D44, ARB 9" 4.11, 351W, C4, Glass body, 2" Duff sl, 2" bl, 33" trxus STS radials.
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Old 07/01/20, 09:06 AM   #9
madcrzydrmr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glass Pony View Post
I'm debating going to 35's on the next set also. The part that's concerning me is I like the drivability of the 4.11's, C-4, and 33's set up I have now. I wish the first gear of the C-4 wasn't so poopy.
I’m 4.88’s with a NV3550. I’m wondering about that as well since now it drives so sweet, but I’m bored and curious. Lol. It’s amazing how much 2” of tire changes everything when you’re already up there.

71 302 NV3550 Twin Stick 4.88’s Detroit Lock Rear TBP Soft Lock Front ChroMo Axles 2.5" Sus 2" Body 33x12.5x15
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Old 07/01/20, 12:12 PM   #10
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How did you do that?

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My 4.11's with a C4 and 35" MTZ's are great.
About 3,300 rpm at 70mph. So I can still cruise.
Great grunt.
I did not feel a big change when I went from 33's to 35's in regards to power. The big change for me was a little worse handling. Wallowy in a corner with 35's that was not wallowy with 33's.

'73, 3.5" sl, XL RS9's, F-250 mounts, Duff long arms, 1" bl, 35" MTZ's, C-4, twin sticked, P.S., built 351W, Exp Serp, F&R Detroits, 4.11's, chromo axles, 11 leaf packs, SuperJoints, Chevy front disc, BC rear disc, BC Vintage a/c, Scat Procar 2K seats, Alpine/Pioneer, Bear, Cobra 148 GTL/Texas Star.
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Old 07/02/20, 04:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronconut73 View Post
My 4.11's with a C4 and 35" MTZ's are great.
About 3,300 rpm at 70mph. So I can still cruise.
Great grunt.
I did not feel a big change when I went from 33's to 35's in regards to power. The big change for me was a little worse handling. Wallowy in a corner with 35's that was not wallowy with 33's.
Good to hear about the power bronconut73. I might be able to deal with the cornering, after thinking about it there isn't too many twisty roads here in lower slower Delaware. Were you running 15" wheels?
I used to worry about the braking issue with bigger tires but after installing hydroboost I think I'm good.

74 EB, disc brake D44, ARB 9" 4.11, 351W, C4, Glass body, 2" Duff sl, 2" bl, 33" trxus STS radials.
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Old 07/02/20, 09:20 AM   #12
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It depends on how you have your bump stops set up in addition to your wheel width and backspacing. Bump stops are probably one of the most over-looked, yet important components for determining what will fit with how much cutting.

Assuming your springs aren't too stiff to use all the compression travel you have (bad), your axles will compress until they reach the bump stops regardless of whether you have 2.5" or 5.5" of suspension lift.

It is easy to determine where your bump stops need to be with coil suspension, just take the springs and shocks out and cycle the suspension with the tires mounted. This way you can cut until the tire clears at all points and steering angles in the suspension cycle, or extend the bump stops when you don't want to cut anymore.

With leaf springs, things are a bit more difficult since the springs also locate the axle. The best way to trim/place your bump stops is to remove all the leaves from the leaf pack, leaving only the main leaf. Then you want to bolt it to the axle with a spacer so that it is close to the same thickness as the assembled leaf pack. now the axle should be located correctly, and the springs will be really soft allowing you to cycle the suspension easily. Here is a picture to help illustrate what I am talking about:


Now, the easy answer to your question: yes, you shouldn't have too much of an issue running 35" tires (assuming they aren't really wide) with a 2.5" suspension lift and 2" body lift. You are going to have to cut a fair amount though. My father ran 35" tires on 15x10" wheels (unsure on backspacing) with 3.5" of suspension lift (no body lift) and it worked well enough. He had to cut a fair amount from the outer fenders (Bushwacker XLs in the rear), as well as a good amount from the front inner fenders. He had to trim/massage the pinch weld corners of the rear wheel tubs and relocate the fender brace on the leading edge of the rear fenders. He was also running factory-height bump stops, but he had pretty stiff springs (Superlift) which compensated for that to an extent. Here is his Bronco to give you an idea what that combo looked like:


Here are some pictures for a better ide on the stance with and without a hardtop:



Regardless, getting your bump stop height dialed in is critical if you actually wheel your rig hard. It is nice to not have to worry about shredding your expensive tires or wadding up sheetmetal.

Last edited by LSharpNM; 07/02/20 at 09:37 AM..
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Old 07/02/20, 01:10 PM   #13
Yeller
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amount of lift needed is entirely limited by your willingness to cut sheet metal. There's a lot more going on here than cutting sheet metal, but equivalent to zero lift and 37's
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The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
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Old 07/02/20, 02:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
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amount of lift needed is entirely limited by your willingness to cut sheet metal. There's a lot more going on here than cutting sheet metal, but equivalent to zero lift and 37's
I like the idea of keeping the center of gravity low.... and that looks badass

Common sense seems to've become a rare superpower
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