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Old 05/16/19, 09:14 PM   #1
Queso1
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Rust and paint issue

Hey guys. Iím working on my first restoration. Ď68 bronco with 6 cyl. Thatís all I know as far as technical jargon goes.

The undercarriage had surface rust and Iíve spent the last two weekends wire brushing and applying phosphoric acid. Then Iíve sprayed on some Rustoleum Undercarriage (rubberized). Itís looking good.

Now Iím moving to the interior. I want to do the same thing as a stop gap, but eventually have bedliner sprayed in the bed and interior.

So, my questions:

1. Is the rustole enough for the undercarriage or is there something else to use?

2. What do you think about the bedliner idea for the interior?

3. Would you do bedliner on the rollcage?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05/16/19, 11:22 PM   #2
rjrobin2002
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Do you have a decent air compressor?

A harbor freight sand blaster could correctly prep the tub interior in 30 minutes for a nice epoxy primer coat then a DIY liner like Raptor. Not that DIY roll on junk the auto part stores carry.

Just trying to get you the best result first time and not do something that's gonna need removed or lead to trapped rust down the road..
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Old 05/17/19, 08:45 AM   #3
jasonmcc
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By no means an expert but...

So, my questions:

1. Is the rustole enough for the undercarriage or is there something else to use? Maybe POR15?

2. What do you think about the bedliner idea for the interior? I have bedliner interior and I've seen it in a lot of rides

3. Would you do bedliner on the rollcage? I personally wouldnt but thats mostly because of aesthetic reasons.

76' Bronco Sport
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Old 05/17/19, 10:05 PM   #4
Queso1
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I checked out this por15 stuff. It looks amazing. Apparently you don’t even need to wirewheel or acid the rust. I’m going to anyway just because I hate rust. I’m going to do under the hood entirely in this stuff.
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Old 05/18/19, 10:58 AM   #5
suckerpunched
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por15 and rust bullet are both awesome products. I remove as much rust as I can too. then use the por15.
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Old 05/19/19, 02:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Queso1 View Post
I checked out this por15 stuff. It looks amazing. Apparently you donít even need to wirewheel or acid the rust. Iím going to anyway just because I hate rust. Iím going to do under the hood entirely in this stuff.
theres a process to follow on the POR-15. Wire wheel it to get all the loose flake off, then hit it with the degreaser agent, give it a slight scrub then rinse it off. Then use the acid wash on it, let it sit for 15-30minutes then rinse it off. Once its dry its good to go... I used a 0.5 gallon pump sprayer from my local hardware store to apply the degreaser and acid wash and garden hose to rinse it off...

1968 Bronco, 289, dana 30, C4 auto, stock ps, MSD ready to run ignition, centech, desert khaki....everything else stock: 1970 Bronco 302 3 spd, Koenig PTO winch : 1990 AM GENERAL HUMVEE 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T : 2008 Honda Element (aka Bronco Concept) : 1968 Dodge Charger in pieces
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Old 05/19/19, 03:01 PM   #7
DirtDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Queso1 View Post
1. Is the rustole enough for the undercarriage or is there something else to use?
At this point you may be done for now on the undercarriage.
There are probably better things to use before the undercoating, but it's too late for that now. Some rust-stopping coat of some kind, then the rubberized undercoating over that.
But the really good news is that all that work you just went through is still going to pay off in big dividends.
It's going to reduce the chance of rust in some areas, and at least stave it off for years to come.
Just keep your eyes under there every summer or so and catch any bits that are peeling off and exposing bare metal and you should be good. Re-apply the undercoating right over the old stuff when it starts to look a little haggard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Queso1 View Post
2. What do you think about the bedliner idea for the interior?
Hate it/love it.
I have color-tinted Raptor Liner in mine (graciously applied by another member here) and it's great. It's textured like any bedliner, but smoother to the touch than some. So it's easy on the hands and knees when roaming around the interior. Some are not so friendly.

But some are better at heat and sound deadening too. Raptor is neither, so if you're planning to run it as-is with no carpet or other insulating materials over the top, you're going to be riding around in a very loud and possibly very hot metal Box on wheels.
I still love the way it looks protects, but insulation and full carpet are going on over the top anyway.

It is not necessarily a rust stopper by itself either. I'm sure others will have input on which brands and whether or not to use something underneath.
But I will add what I've said many times since Broncos have become so popular:
TAKE COPIOUS NOTES AND PICTURES!!!!

It's not for you. It's for in case there is ever a new owner and you become the "Dreaded PO" and can't prove to the next guy that there is no rust under all that bedliner.
The most common "fix" for rusted out floors is bedliner right over the rust. Followed closely by street signs and fiberglass patches.
So the first thing those in-the-know do when they see bedliner inside a Bronco (if they don't just run away that is!) is to ask for pictures to prove that there is good clean metal underneath.

Just a heads-up...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Queso1 View Post
3. Would you do bedliner on the rollcage?
No.
No real reason though. Just no.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 05/19/19, 08:21 PM   #8
Queso1
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Thanks everyone!
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Old 05/20/19, 11:36 AM   #9
pipeline010
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I've been aggressively tackling pre-rust since I got my truck. I can testify to POR-15 being an excellent product but it's absolutely NOT "paint over rust." be careful.

My process:
1. Remove surface rust.
Depending on what I'm trying to cover this could include a belt sander, wire brushes of various sizes, and sandpaper by hand; in reality it's all of the above.

My favorite tool for this has quickly become the wire brush cylinders that connect to your drill. I have a cone one and a flat one and they cut the time considerably.

Wear a respirator mask and goggles.

2. Wash with regular water / soap. Air Dry.

3. Wash with their degreaser. The stuff is awesome. Don't let it dry off, wash it off with water. Air Dry.

4. Metal Prep - Spray it all over anywhere you plan to paint. (Keep your mask on it smells like pain to me). Keep it wet by respraying for 15-20 mins. Don't let it dry. Spray with a hose after 12-20 mins. Air Dry.

If you've got tons and tons of bubbles you've left too much rust. Get back in there with your wire brushes and clear it. This stuff is like Ospho but it also etches the metal so that the paint will adhere. Without this product you will waste your very expensive paint.

5. POR15 Paint.
Wear gloves, hat, long sleeve shirt, mask. Just gloves? Congrats, you're a tiger now. 2 weeks to come off your skin. I drive my truck on top of an old tarp before I begin.

I glob the stuff on to make sure I'm hitting ever seam, every edge. Frame off woulda been a breeze, but I'm not doing that. Jut globs and globs of paint to get in between seams and body/frame.

2 coats is best, but if your POR-15 is going to see sunshine (like front diff/steering linkages/radius arms/caps) you are going to need to use some rattle can on top...rustoleum black is nice...UV light (sunshine) will break up your POR-15.

If you have pitted metal that you're painting then you should be using the SILVER por-15 rather than black. It's got metal pieces in it to fill in the holes.

Once you get the program it's a breeze. I still need to do my front and rear differentials after I flush the fluid and change some seals, but I can likely have both done in less than 90 minutes at this point.

Have fun!

"Ignorance is such a gift. It gives you the opportunity to learn something, if you're humble enough."

-Arian Foster, former NFL running back.
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Old 05/24/19, 09:25 AM   #10
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The only thing that will remove this stuff is gasoline from your hands and you have to do it almost immediately of it getting in your skin. I don’t reccomended using gas at all for a cleaner just wear gloves and an old long sheave shirt!

1968 Bronco, 289, dana 30, C4 auto, stock ps, MSD ready to run ignition, centech, desert khaki....everything else stock: 1970 Bronco 302 3 spd, Koenig PTO winch : 1990 AM GENERAL HUMVEE 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T : 2008 Honda Element (aka Bronco Concept) : 1968 Dodge Charger in pieces
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