• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0 Swap

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
And 904, we are indebted to you for your info and experience on the Explorer swaps! I was in the vanguard of the early EB 5.0 swappers in the '90s and now I'm on the opposite end of things and very grateful that people like you that 'do it right' that can help those of us along that will be converting to the Explorer EFI.

Todd Z.

Thank you for your kind words Todd...
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
This might be helpful regarding the bolts. I had the same trouble with water pump and intake bolts. Made this bolt shopping list. Anyone using it should double check all bolt sizes but should get you in the ball park.

Fortunately, ARP is here in Ventura. I just stopped by and they made a custom bolt set for me on the spot. Before this I searched everywhere and could not find the right set. This worked out awesome.

I wish they would market that kit...
 

BanditBronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
689
I wish they would market that kit...

Agreed, they have a mustang kit you can buy on LMR but I am not sure what doesn't cross over to explorer.

Gotta be careful with those bolts I know there are some 1/4" lengths in there that are the hard ones to find.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,038
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
This might be helpful regarding the bolts. I had the same trouble with water pump and intake bolts. Made this bolt shopping list. Anyone using it should double check all bolt sizes but should get you in the ball park.

Fortunately, ARP is here in Ventura. I just stopped by and they made a custom bolt set for me on the spot. Before this I searched everywhere and could not find the right set. This worked out awesome.

Thanks for sharing that, what a great resource! Wish I'd had it last week when I was in the midst of discovering that the OEM Explorer fasteners I'd had saved for years for my current build were way more corroded than I could tolerate. Wound up buying a pile of ARP bolts from Summit. But my greedy side feels good looking at all the cool extra ARP bolts I have on hand :cool:
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,038
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
And 904, we are indebted to you for your info and experience on the Explorer swaps! I was in the vanguard of the early EB 5.0 swappers in the '90s and now I'm on the opposite end of things and very grateful that people like you that 'do it right' that can help those of us along that will be converting to the Explorer EFI.

Todd Z.

What Todd said.. Thanks Doug! My current build isn't an Explorer but it has enough in common that many posts you've made have been super helpful. It's been 20+ years since the last one for me, so I've gone from front of the class to leaning against the back wall.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
What Todd said.. Thanks Doug! My current build isn't an Explorer but it has enough in common that many posts you've made have been super helpful. It's been 20+ years since the last one for me, so I've gone from front of the class to leaning against the back wall.

Thank you for your kind words too Lars...
 

gnsteam

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
3,522
Loc.
Lincoln NE
The cam #35-349-8

For tuning purposes, Garry may have to bump the curb idle up 50 rpm and best to check the fuel trims after it is running. But for many his base settings are fine.

From what I read, It is good in the 1,500 - 5000 rpm range, requires their valve springs, and different valve guide seals. Which increases cost of the rebuild.

Mine will not be running until the Spring...

Sorry for the hi-jack but I have a question about the cam. In my notes I have this Comp cam number 35-510-8 saved. I don't remember where I obtained the number and I know nothing about specking out a cam. Can you explain the difference in these two cams. 35-510-8 vs 35-349-8.

Thanks so much,

Fred
 
Last edited:

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Sorry for the hi-jack but I have a question about the cam. In my notes I have this Comp cam number 35-510-8 saved. I don't remember where I obtained the number and I know nothing about specking out a cam. Can you explain the difference in these two cams. 35-510-8 vs 35-349-8.

Thanks so much,

Fred

I am sorry Fred, but I am not an expert. Mearly reached out to Garry and that was his recommendation. So I went with it.

Doug.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Was thinking about this thread today as I was hooking up the heater.

Tape marking the cuts is approximate, every Bronco is slightly different.

This is what amount of hose that you have left over.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210118_122437045.jpg
    IMG_20210118_122437045.jpg
    225.4 KB · Views: 149
  • IMG_20210118_130105981_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20210118_130105981_HDR.jpg
    138.5 KB · Views: 151
  • IMG_20210118_135235018.jpg
    IMG_20210118_135235018.jpg
    95.8 KB · Views: 176
  • IMG_20210118_135240370_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20210118_135240370_HDR.jpg
    77.5 KB · Views: 143

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,038
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Was thinking about this thread today as I was hooking up the heater.

Tape marking the cuts is approximate, every Bronco is slightly different.

This is what amount of hose that you have left over.

All that stuff is way too clean. I'm offended... not.

Are you modifying the Explorer steel tubes at the firewall end at all for clearance? I have a brand new set for the 408. Obviously that will change things a bit since they'll sit about 3/8" higher, but I had to tweak the longest tube when I did the Explorer 5.0 install to clear the firewall in my case.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
All that stuff is way too clean. I'm offended... not.

Are you modifying the Explorer steel tubes at the firewall end at all for clearance? I have a brand new set for the 408. Obviously that will change things a bit since they'll sit about 3/8" higher, but I had to tweak the longest tube when I did the Explorer 5.0 install to clear the firewall in my case.

No tweeks, just clean up, paint and bolt on.

I did have to tweek the fuel inject rail return line, it was right up against the Firewall.
 

hankjr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
1,760
No tweeks, just clean up, paint and bolt on.

I did have to tweek the fuel inject rail return line, it was right up against the Firewall.

i had to bend my fuel return line as well. i put a drill that just fit inside the tube for leverage and support and gently bent it.

Hank
 

scotte6

Newbie
Joined
Dec 14, 2012
Messages
21
Just starting down the path of putting a 5.0 from a 98 mountaineer in to a '74. Is a body lift required to clear a stock hood? Appreciate all the info, this site is a wealth of knowledge.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Scott6,

I am pretty sure there are those who have made things fit with the Explorer motor and 4R70W swap without a body lift. Depends on how collasped your body mounts are if original. I am on my 4th Explorer conversion and I have always done a 1" body lift, its just seems to make the conversion go easier with the added space.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,038
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Just starting down the path of putting a 5.0 from a 98 mountaineer in to a '74. Is a body lift required to clear a stock hood? Appreciate all the info, this site is a wealth of knowledge.

Maybe.

Depends on the things that determine how high the engine sits. On some installations the lower right idler pulley will hit the forward frame crossmember, a problem that can be solved by either notching the crossmember or shimming the motor mounts. In my case the idler pulley cleared by a mile, despite using standard rubber motor mounts. Which meant that the throttle position sensor hit the hood (I have the throttle body bolted directly to the upper intake, no spacer or elbow).

A 1" body lift, which wound up measuring more like 3/4", solved the problem.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
There is also the coil packs - spark plug boots rubbing against the hood brace. Yes you have to cut and drop the bracket, but you can only go so low until it hits the fuel rail (drivers side) with the coil pack installed. You can also angle the bracket down in the front for a little more clearance when you mod it.

Power steering reservior needs moved back and dropped a little to clear the same hood brace. Even with the body lift for both
 

quic

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
63
Thanks to all for this invaluable information, I am going down this path as well. I have been reading about this swap for a while.
As far as the motor mounts go I've read that stock works, but is it stock bronco or stock explorer?
 

scotte6

Newbie
Joined
Dec 14, 2012
Messages
21
Seems like the consensus is a 1" body lift just makes life easier. I did put new body mounts in, but I think I'll just go with the lift to avoid issues later. Thanks for all the responses.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,749
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Thanks to all for this invaluable information, I am going down this path as well. I have been reading about this swap for a while.
As far as the motor mounts go I've read that stock works, but is it stock bronco or stock explorer?

Stock Bronco...
 
Top