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Old 10/20/19, 06:19 PM   #121
904Bronco
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So many Ford's, so little time...

Morgan Hill, CA
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I had a similar issue with the Air Temp sensor, where to put it?

Finally settled on the 45* elbow, had to double up the material as it is pretty thin.

Saw another Ford vehicle in the Wreaking yard, had the sensor in the plastic air box with a grommet. The closest match I found was Dorman Help line # 42330. Cutting a slit in the silicon hose sounds kind of "Sketch" as my son says...
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Last edited by 904Bronco; 10/20/19 at 07:03 PM..

1967 Poppy Red U15 Lubr... 96 Explorer EDIS and NV3550
1971 Grabber Green U15 Lubr... 2000 Explorer EDIS and 4R70W
2016 Shelby GT350 - Race red
2002 F250 Superduty 7.3 212K and still going!
2001 Bullit Mustang. Son drives this one
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Old 10/21/19, 06:58 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904Bronco View Post
Saw another Ford vehicle in the Wreaking yard, had the sensor in the plastic air box with a grommet. The closest match I found was Dorman Help line # 42330. Cutting a slit in the silicon hose sounds kind of "Sketch" as my son says...
I wonder: Does this sensor need to be in the intake tube? I guess it should have filtered air passing by it.

73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old 10/21/19, 08:59 AM   #123
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So many Ford's, so little time...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter_76 View Post
I wonder: Does this sensor need to be in the intake tube? I guess it should have filtered air passing by it.
Filtered > Maybe... Probably best.
It is just looking at Temp, so all it would see is dust if it was in the air box. You planning on a dry or (oiled) wet cone filter? Oil could be transferred and muck up it's readings whether it is in the tube behind the filter or in the box with. I am not a fan of the K&N filters...

Just random thoughts here...

1967 Poppy Red U15 Lubr... 96 Explorer EDIS and NV3550
1971 Grabber Green U15 Lubr... 2000 Explorer EDIS and 4R70W
2016 Shelby GT350 - Race red
2002 F250 Superduty 7.3 212K and still going!
2001 Bullit Mustang. Son drives this one
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Old 10/21/19, 09:07 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904Bronco View Post
Filtered > Maybe... Probably best.
It is just looking at Temp, so all it would see is dust if it was in the air box. You planning on a dry or (oiled) wet cone filter? Oil could be transferred and muck up it's readings whether it is in the tube behind the filter or in the box with. I am not a fan of the K&N filters...

Just random thoughts here...
I'm leaning toward a paper filter. The oil just seems like a bad idea on an EFI setup. Maybe I'm just paranoid...

73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old 10/21/19, 12:35 PM   #125
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I have questions!

1. I know I'm going to have to lower the coil pack bracket for hood clearance. With spark plug wires, it sits about 2" higher than the top of the PS reservoir cap.


But it looks like I can only lower it about 1" before it hits the fuel rail on the passenger side.


Is 1" going to be sufficient?

2. I'm confused about the vacuum lines for the fuel pressure regulator. I think one hose end that's resting on the lower intake in the picture plugs-into the upper intake manifold.


And I think the one in my hand plugged-into this plastic thingy on the side of the EGR valve.

Since I'm deleting the EGR valve, do I need to keep the plastic thingy? If so, what is it called? If not, how do I route the vacuum lines?

3. I replaced the oil pump on the engine and will need to prime it before starting. Do I have to separate the cam position sensor from the camshaft synchronizer (and thus get my hands on the alignment tool to reinstall) or can I pull the whole thing out and reinstall as one unit?

Thanks!

73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old 10/21/19, 05:19 PM   #126
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So many Ford's, so little time...

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Yes about an inch is all you can go... Right rear bolt might need shortened.

Try tilting it forward, down in front, for a little more clearance from the hood cross brace... Still taking an inch out.

Red plastic hose feeds vacuum to Fuel reg, can use just a vacuum hose.
White plastic hose feeds vacuum to EGR control valve, black thingy, if you are deleting EGR then you can delete this stuff.

Priming oil pump, motor at top dead center, remove cam synchronizer as a unit, prime pump, reinstall cam Sync as a unit. For giggles, remove the sensor from the body and check cam sync for proper position with tool

1967 Poppy Red U15 Lubr... 96 Explorer EDIS and NV3550
1971 Grabber Green U15 Lubr... 2000 Explorer EDIS and 4R70W
2016 Shelby GT350 - Race red
2002 F250 Superduty 7.3 212K and still going!
2001 Bullit Mustang. Son drives this one
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Old 10/21/19, 06:47 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904Bronco View Post
Yes about an inch is all you can go... Right rear bolt might need shortened.

Try tilting it forward, down in front, for a little more clearance from the hood cross brace... Still taking an inch out.

Red plastic hose feeds vacuum to Fuel reg, can use just a vacuum hose.
White plastic hose feeds vacuum to EGR control valve, black thingy, if you are deleting EGR then you can delete this stuff.

Priming oil pump, motor at top dead center, remove cam synchronizer as a unit, prime pump, reinstall cam Sync as a unit. For giggles, remove the sensor from the body and check cam sync for proper position with tool
Awesome. Thanks!

73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old 10/21/19, 10:52 PM   #128
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So many Ford's, so little time...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter_76 View Post
Awesome. Thanks!
On second thought....

Run the engine to TDC, remove the cam Sync sensor, two bolts, and then put the tool in place, note the direction the sensor plug is pointing. Directions say point in forward at the Rad. But mine have been slightly off center. That way when you pull it and prime the pump, it should go back in in the same position. You may have to move the the pump drive shaft a little, if it does not want to line up/drop in.

1967 Poppy Red U15 Lubr... 96 Explorer EDIS and NV3550
1971 Grabber Green U15 Lubr... 2000 Explorer EDIS and 4R70W
2016 Shelby GT350 - Race red
2002 F250 Superduty 7.3 212K and still going!
2001 Bullit Mustang. Son drives this one
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Old 11/07/19, 11:37 AM   #129
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Latest Updates:
- I decided to buy a new coil pack mount from MIGS, instead of modifying the original.
- I pulled the CPS and synchronizer, following the PDF that 904Bronco posted in this thread so I could prime the oil pump. Perhaps a bit premature, since it will be a few months before I'm ready to crank it over.
- Welded the lower donut brackets for the radiator to the core support. Despite what you see in the images below, I am NOT a professional welder.





- This morning I took an inch out of the oil fill tube to help with hood clearance.






73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old 11/09/19, 09:22 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter_76 View Post
Latest milestone: I installed the Lokar Column Shift Linkage between the factory column and 4R70W. Following the Lokar instructions, I replaced the selector shaft in the transmission with the one that came in the kit. I had to move the Park position of the arm from 7:30 to about 9:00 in order for the stainless steel rod to reach, then trimmed about 1/2" off the end of the rod so that the pivot point was at the end of the arm. Thanks to Viperwolf1 for providing guidance on this!






The indicator on the column lines-up pretty well with the various gears, with the exception of 1st, which indicates between 1st and 2nd.

Nice thread you have here.

You can get the indicator to line up better. If I recall correctly what we did on mine was to put a slight bend in the arm that mounts to the trans which helped some. Then Viperwolf1 had a longer arm made. Hit him up for details, he may even have extras laying around.

1977 Sport with 351W Explorer based EFI, 4R70W, 4:88 gears, ARB lockers, 3.5" suspension, 33"x12.5 Shoes
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Old Yesterday, 07:53 PM   #131
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Shifting gears to the wiring portion of this project before I clutter the engine compartment with any more hoses. Wiring isn't my strong suit, and I've been dreading it. Looking for some clarification on some of the under-hood wiring:

-From what I understand, I'll use the Green wire w/red stripe from the Bronco's voltage regulator plug to excite the Explorer 4G alternator.

Comparing my wires to Seabiscuit's wiring diagram I have identified the following:

Voltage Regulator plug:
- Orange - to old alternator - no longer needed
- Yellow - to ammeter/starter relay(?) - no longer needed
- Noise Suppression Capacitor - no longer needed



Old alternator plug:
- Black w/Yellow stripe - Based on the diagram, it looks like this wire feeds a bunch of stuff. Should I keep it and connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid?
- Orange - to voltage regulator - no longer needed
- Black w/red stripe - to voltage regulator - no longer needed



Fusible Link
- Yellow - to voltage regulator - no longer needed
- Black - Diagram shows this as black w/red stripe going to the ammeter (which has been removed from the gauge cluster.) Do I need this?



I also have a red wire w/blue stripe that went to the "S" terminal on the old starter solenoid and a brown wire that wen tot he "I" terminal. I think I can ditch both of these, as there were new wires provided in EFIGuy's harness.

Last edited by Cooter_76; Today at 03:11 PM..

73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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Old Today, 05:32 PM   #132
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Decided to buy a new coil pack bracket from MIGS, instead of trying to modify the original myself and I'm glad I did!
Had to replace the front two lower intake bolts with some 4" studs so I could space the new bracket a bit higher with an extra nut on each side to clear the Explorer PS pump. It fits great.




73 - Soon-to-be Explorer 5.0/4R70W, 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 32" BFG KM2's, Ch*vy disc brakes, twin sticks, Rampage Soft Top.
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