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Scoop's 72 Patina Build

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Scoop

Scoop

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It looks like you ended up with Bilstein shocks. I'm currently installing a 2.5" lift on a similar original paint Bronco so interested in the shock info and how you settled on what you purchased.
Thanks
Yes, Bilsteins. At first I was going to go with the WH brand shocks (to match the lift I'm installing) but they have been discontinued. I had installed Bilsteins on my 78 Bronco and liked them so I decided to use them on my 72. WH gave me the measurements for the 2 1/2" lift and I ordered them from BilsteinLifts.com.

REAR – eye/eye 24.5 extended, 15 compressed

FRONT – stud/eye 21.5 extended, 13 compressed
 

Willowrun

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Yes, Bilsteins. At first I was going to go with the WH brand shocks (to match the lift I'm installing) but they have been discontinued. I had installed Bilsteins on my 78 Bronco and liked them so I decided to use them on my 72. WH gave me the measurements for the 2 1/2" lift and I ordered them from BilsteinLifts.com.

REAR – eye/eye 24.5 extended, 15 compressed

FRONT – stud/eye 21.5 extended, 13 compressed
Awesome. Thank you!
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Back at it! I got the front pretty much buttoned up yesterday. Calipers mounted with new pads, brake lines hooked up including extended brake line from frame to axle, front driveshaft back in, etc. Also mocked up the drag link to the new ps box to see if I needed a drop pitman arm. See the pic. When all tightens up the arm and the drag link end will be another inch to 1 1/2 inches higher. I think this will bring it pretty parallel to track bar. I think I'm good NOT using a drop pitman. I know I'll need to check it again with weight on the wheels. Also need to install the front locking hubs. I have a new set to go in.

Next is to start on the rear lift springs and detailing the rear axle. I have most of the things needed for hooking up the power steering except the new turn signal switch which is on back order with Toms.
 

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DirtDonk

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The good news is the parallel does not change with suspension position. So while you’re not perfect at this stage, it’s pretty close and will stay that way.
You definitely do not want a dropped Pitman Arm by itself as that would just make the misalignment worse. Like most applications you would want both a drop bracket for the track bar and a drop Pitman Arm to keep their angles close together.

And they do look pretty steep at the moment. You may wish to add a drop trackbar bracket and a drop Pitman Arm later just to lower the overall angles.
But as you say, you’ll know once it’s on the ground and fully loaded.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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The good news is the parallel does not change with suspension position. So while you’re not perfect at this stage, it’s pretty close and will stay that way.
You definitely do not want a dropped Pitman Arm by itself as that would just make the misalignment worse. Like most applications you would want both a drop bracket for the track bar and a drop Pitman Arm to keep their angles close together.

And they do look pretty steep at the moment. You may wish to add a drop trackbar bracket and a drop Pitman Arm later just to lower the overall angles.
But as you say, you’ll know once it’s on the ground and fully loaded.
Thanks Paul. What is shown is full droop on the WH 2 1/2" lift coils. Shocks are not fully extended. I do get a very slight bind in the front driveshaft CV joint in this position.
 

DirtDonk

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Yeah, not too surprising. It’s hard to try correcting caster and keep a reasonable pinion angle with good wheel travel.
Can’t wait to see it all back on the ground again.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Yeah, not too surprising. It’s hard to try correcting caster and keep a reasonable pinion angle with good wheel travel.
Can’t wait to see it all back on the ground again.
Yes, the very slight bind probably would not be there with 4 degree bushings. But I'm thinking the 7 degrees will make it a better driver. This will not be an extreme trail rig so the chances of ever seeing full droop when driving (i.e. - jumping it!) are very slim. Maybe some limiting straps just to be safe??
 

Yeller

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One over the diff is all I would do. No reason to go to the expense/trouble to do both sides. I would do it if you have any ujoint bind. Nothing like cruising down a nice paved road and you catch some air on a bridge transition, RR crossing or just fantastic random spot that should have had a “BUMP” or “CANYON CROSSING” sign on it.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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One over the diff is all I would do. No reason to go to the expense/trouble to do both sides. I would do it if you have any ujoint bind. Nothing like cruising down a nice paved road and you catch some air on a bridge transition, RR crossing or just fantastic random spot that should have had a “BUMP” or “CANYON CROSSING” sign on it.
Had not thought of a single strap over the diff. Looking at it, it looks to be doable fairly easily. Top of diff to driver's side motor mount. Would a custom bracket bolted to the top 3 diff cover bolts work? Not sure I want to weld to the cast diff housing.
 

Yeller

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Even 2 of the bolts is will work. K.I.S.S. 😝

1 would probably do just fine but 2 more than sufficient.

Don’t blame you this took a while LOL and not for anyone not super comfortable with the process or their skills. Actually it’s not that bad to do.
 

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Scoop

Scoop

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Got the rear axle out today. Tomorrow I'll hang the 2 1/2" leafs and start detailing the axle. Looks like I'll need to replace the pinion seal. I want to set the weight on all 4 wheels to see what the actual lift is. I'm afraid the rear is going to be too high - may have to remove a leaf or 2 to get a level stance.
 

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stupidboy

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I have a 3-1/2" lift on and the back sits 2in higher than the front. I'm considering 2-1/2" springs for the rear or 4-1/2" coils in the front.
Keep up the good work.
 

904Bronco

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A question... Did you add power steering or was it just a new box? If added, what did you do to the rad support for clearance?

I am adding PS to my 70, previously for my 69, I had a local shop recreate the PS bump out bracket that later Factory PS Broncos had. (You can't buy this piece separately from the sheet metal builders, I called them) As my story goes, the local shop moved, lost the CAD drawing, says they are way to busy now to recreate the drawing or the part. I have created a template in cardboard, but lack a good Brake to bend it up myself. (Gotten by with cheapo Harbor Frieght unit) Looking at options.. Don't want to do a hack job, as I have seen on other local conversions. Thanks for any insight. Doug.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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A question... Did you add power steering or was it just a new box? If added, what did you do to the rad support for clearance?

I am adding PS to my 70, previously for my 69, I had a local shop recreate the PS bump out bracket that later Factory PS Broncos had. (You can't buy this piece separately from the sheet metal builders, I called them) As my story goes, the local shop moved, lost the CAD drawing, says they are way to busy now to recreate the drawing or the part. I have created a template in cardboard, but lack a good Brake to bend it up myself. (Gotten by with cheapo Harbor Frieght unit) Looking at options.. Don't want to do a hack job, as I have seen on other local conversions. Thanks for any insight. Doug.
I added power steering to an original manual steering Bronco. It cleared with no modification. Mine is one of the 72 "orphans" as it has a 72 VIN (see the "P's and Q's thread") but it is actually a 73. The radiator support has the factory bump out for power steering. Fortunately I did not have this issue.
 

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Scoop

Scoop

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OK, this was not expected! Side by side comparison of the stock and new 2 1/2" lift leafs are virtually identical. The new springs are less than 1/4" higher. Now I did not spec or buy these directly from Wild Horses so I do not know for sure that they're 2 1/2". I bought them from a private party who never installed them. Claimed it was a 2 1/2" front and rear.

@DirtDonk - Paul, do the numbers shown tell you what the lift is?
 

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fordfan

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OK, this was not expected! Side by side comparison of the stock and new 2 1/2" lift leafs are virtually identical. The new springs are less than 1/4" higher. Now I did not spec or buy these directly from Wild Horses so I do not know for sure that they're 2 1/2". I bought them from a private party who never installed them. Claimed it was a 2 1/2" front and rear.

@DirtDonk - Paul, do the numbers shown tell you what the lift is?
What was the GVW of your bronco? The 152's and 153's will sit 2" or more higher in the rear. Two of my '77's are U153s and one has 2.5" coils and the other 3.5" coils and they sit level with the original rear leaf packs.
 

fordfan

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After looking at the rear leafs in your picture Scoop, they are aftermarket springs...they may be 2.5" ones...
 

DirtDonk

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At first glance on my phone at least, those do not appear to be our springs. Although I can’t say for the distant past, we have not offered a standard style spring pack that I am aware of.
Even though I can’t count the individual leaves from my small screen, they do not appear to be a 9, 10, or 11 leaf pack. Looks more like a six pack. Nothing looks like our current springs.
And that is not our typical numbering system either.

I have not been deep in the industry for a while, so those numbers do not tell me what brand they might be. I know at least in the past Toms offered standard replacement springs in higher than stock lifts.
But at least since I’ve been with WH we have not.

I’ll check with some others to see if we ever did.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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What was the GVW of your bronco? The 152's and 153's will sit 2" or more higher in the rear. Two of my '77's are U153s and one has 2.5" coils and the other 3.5" coils and they sit level with the original rear leaf packs.
U150 - 4300 lbs is shown on the door post sticker.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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After looking at the rear leafs in your picture Scoop, they are aftermarket springs...they may be 2.5" ones...
Could be. I thought this Bronco had not been touched much. BUT one axle U-bolt was different and the position of the spring bolts (Head in or head out) was not consistent side to side. So It had been worked on more than I thought.
 
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