67 Bronco Build

RVZIO · Dec 2, 2019

DirtDonk said:
Most were rigid plastic along the frame, metal from the pump to the carb, and rubber at all the junctions.

Lots of people do rubber, but some bend up their own hard line. There are kits available that you might have seen already, from some of the vendors, but they are not all one long piece as far as I know. There are junctions, likely to make them easier to ship.

While there might be some 1/4" hose pre-molded into a U-shape, that looks like what everybody I know uses and just a piece of hose doubled over.
Those are your evaporative emissions vent tubes though, for '70 to '75 Broncos. And are good things to keep functional if you can.
If yours was originally equipped, your gas cap will be "non-vented" accordingly. If this is a swapped-in tank to an earlier year though, there should be no venting issues as the fuel level goes down from use.

Keeping them intact requires a charcoal canister, but if you're going to be parking this thing in the family garage it's usually considered a good thing in the long term.

Paul

Thanks Paul, good stuff.

RVZIO · Dec 2, 2019

I put the tank in today and it went pretty good. I noticed a little slack on the strap running below the tank. Also noticed that the non bolt end of the strap may need to be going down once it is in the frame not straight in. YES!

ngsd · Dec 2, 2019

RVZIO said:
I put the tank in today and it went pretty good. I noticed a little slack on the strap running below the tank. Also noticed that the non bolt end of the strap may need to be going down once it is in the frame not straight in. YES!

Did your strap have the rubber gasket?

RVZIO · Dec 2, 2019

ngsd said:
Did your strap have the rubber gasket?

No rubber gasket between tank strap.

RVZIO · Dec 7, 2019

So I have the new tank in with about 3 gallons of gas. No leaks! Before the gas since this is just a test to see how well the motor is I decided to run a new line along side the old one for now. Tried to start and no fuel coming forward yet. Removed the fuel pump and it was toast. New one one it's way. Still runs with a little gas down the carb though. Body bolts are removed and working on 4x4 wood bracing for body.
Thanks for tuning in.

DirtDonk · Dec 7, 2019

While the tank is empty-ish still, now's the time to verify that the gas gauge is talking nice with the sending unit. I think someone mentioned that already, and it's good advice.
With less than 3gal it's still possible to even pull out the sending unit if needed to tweak and adjust the float arm and stops.
If you've already done it, great. But if not, now's the perfect time so you can avoid the frustration that most go through when finding out their gauge only goes to 3/4 full, or only goes to 1/2 empty!

Have fun (ish...).

;D

Paul

sprdv1 · Dec 7, 2019

Definitely a good time to make sure its right

RVZIO · Dec 11, 2019

Okay the tank and fuel pump are in with new gas and bam the 67 started right up and idled really well for a 6 cylinder that has not run in awhile. Ordered a new ignition switch and cylinder as well as a master cylinder and the 2 brake lines to the proportioning block. Then onto seeing what's needed at the wheels for brakes. Goal is to be able to move and stop on it's own, then make the decision on it's future!

sprdv1 · Dec 11, 2019

get err done man

RVZIO · Dec 13, 2019

Well some other parts coming in Monday, like master cylinder and brake lines to proportion block. Also new ignition instead of the screw driver option. Also looking at tires. Currently has dry rotted 7.50 16's. I found a set of Good Year's 235/70 R16. Would this be a similar size tire as what's on now??? They are new for $400.

.94 OR · Dec 13, 2019

I'm looking at a tire site and they list the 7.50 x 16 as 32.2" tall
The 235/70-16 specs out at 28.95" tall
A 265/75-16 specs out at 31.64" tall

RVZIO · Dec 13, 2019

Found the cross reference to a 7.50 which is a 235/85 x 16. These will work for me to test drive my project 67 instead of the rotted 7.50. Got them on rims for $350. Thanks

RVZIO · Dec 13, 2019

Got the newer tires home , cleaned up the hood latch and remove 2 lines from the proportioning block. Not sure what this bracket near the proportioning block is. Anyone

DirtDonk · Dec 14, 2019

It was to hold/support the original soft brake lines/hoses (combination of both hard and soft lines) running from the master cylinder to the H-block on the frame. Probably used the same one for '76 and '77 EB's as well, but for sure it was on '68 to '75 models.

Paul

RVZIO · Dec 14, 2019

DirtDonk said:
It was to hold/support the original soft brake lines/hoses (combination of both hard and soft lines) running from the master cylinder to the H-block on the frame. Probably used the same one for '76 and '77 EB's as well, but for sure it was on '68 to '75 models.

Paul

Can I use the solid lines. I think that's what I ordered.

904Bronco · Dec 14, 2019

RVZIO said:
Can I use the solid lines. I think that's what I ordered.

Yes.....

RVZIO · Dec 14, 2019

Parts

Cleaned up the hood latch today. Also put front bumper back on also!

RVZIO · Dec 14, 2019

Found the bracket that bolts to the frame for the clutch bar but can'' seem to find the bar and clutch pedal rod etc.

sprdv1 · Dec 22, 2019

RVZIO said:
Cleaned up the hood latch today. Also put front bumper back on also!

Glad you're making progress... keep after it

RVZIO · Dec 24, 2019

In my effort to get my 67 running and safe I picked up some newer tires mounted on newer 16" rims (pictures later). Sold off the first set of 16" mounted on the wrong rims. The new set have powder coated rims in Army green. Perfect for my mil rat look. So in review I want to get the Bronco road worthy before I decide to lift body and go nuts. Have some fun first, work later LOL!

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